lmdew
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Everything posted by lmdew
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A few years ago I had picked up a 2.2 from a fellow. I pressure washed it and then it sat for a month. I had the same issue, the crank was hitting something. I use the borescope at work and looked in the cylinders. Rust had built up on the wall stopping the piston. I soaked it in trans fluid for a few days and then slowly worked it back and forth until it rotated freely. Never had an issue with the engine after that. Good luck. -
If you sleeping in the back Legacy Outback! You will like the extra room
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There is an 2004 in the COS UPAP. I don't know if it has the trans you need. Subaru Outback 2004 h6 s I008
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Auto or Manual? Do you have Spark? Will it start if you put a little gas in the Intake? Is the crank turning or just the starter? (did they put the flex plate bolts in?
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Is the AT Temp light flashing 16 times after you start the car? If so you have a code. You can search the USMB to find the process to pull the code.
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Yep, great swap.
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97 legacy gt 2.5
lmdew replied to dp213's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Anything is possible with enough $$$$. Comes down to how much you want to send and the reliability of the engine once it's built. Read the Franken Motor thread. -
Call Mike at 970 217 7551 - for $1500 or so he will rebuild it. You can also Call Shawn at Retroroo 720-440-1662, also a rebuilder. Or CCR, sorry I don't have there phone, also in Denver.
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I can buy 24 Subaru (96-99) for that price.
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What CEL code are you getting? Cutting wires is never a good idea! Most engine sensors are very low voltage and any corrosion or poor connections can set a code. When the engine detects Knocks, it retards the timing to prevent knocks and thus the loss of performance. 5-30 oil is recommended for most Subaru's. Since this started after the oil change, you might want to start there. New Oil and a Subaru filter are way less than you've spent in parts and time.
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Swap to Disk Brakes. I have everything you need $200 + shipping from CO 80919
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If the cleaner does not fix it, you can clean the resister with a light abrasive. There are two units, one on the each side of the tank.
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does it do the same thing if you shift it manually, 1, 2 ,3 D?
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Yes, Subaru parts
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I would not trust the JB weld fix. The IAC or Throttle body are easy to come by. Heck for $20 shipped I'd send you both.
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Get the CEL Codes first. Then apply the suggestions above as indicated by the code.
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Check nasioc.com. You may find more information there. Most USMB folks are Lifting their Subarus.
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How's the reset of the system. I have lots of good Colorado dual port header pipes. $60 shipped to a work/business address.
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I've gotten some off Ebay, it was a long time ago. I've also used the old plastic and mounted in a sealed low beam lights. You have to cut out some of the back plastic but they will go in.
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NGK copper plugs and plug wires!
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Search the code, there is lots of good information hear and at the outback form. CarDoc has a very extensive article on it. You did the right thing, start with the easy stuff first: - Fuel Filter - NGK plugs and plug wires if needed - Check for air and vac leaks
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Drive shaft most likely, Were the U-joints checked, free movement? Did you make sure the front and rear diff were the same ratios?
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They will be OK, did you mark the rotation?
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Coils usually do not fail. If you want a spare or two, I have a stack of them from the 2.5 to 2.2 swaps. $20 shipped HG are easy to figure out, Check to make sure the radiator itself is full when cold Check the Over flow bottle for black oily stuff Larry
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Interesting so they actually make a HG just for this application?
