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Everything posted by lmdew
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Junk yard would be the fastest. There are several different configurations on Brakes. The nice thing about Subaru's as they are Lego's for the most part so you can bolt up pretty much any matching brake set. Lot's of folks have went to larger WRX Brakes, which would bolt right to your Impreza. As far as the pin, yes I have seen your configuration and if I was home could pull a dozen out of my 5 gal bolt buckets. That will not help you get back on the road but the junk yard will.
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Yes no flashing AT light. Pan was not dented Good Clean Fluid Shifts fine if I keep the RPM low Shifts fine if I manually shift gears I'm going to try to find a TCU from a trans with the newer inhibitor switch and see if that does not take care of the problem, but that will not be for a few weeks. Darn work is getting in the way of Subaru fun.
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Better but not fixed. The shifting is on as hard and it now shifts well up to 4K. I think I may have found the problem. The Inhibitor that is on the trans I installed has 4 mounting bolts. The Inhibitor that is on the original trans has 3 mounting bolts so there may be some difference. I thought the transmission numbers were the same, but there may be some differences. Trans Experts, any ideas? Can I find the correct ECU and swap it in or do I need to swap the trans?
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As you said it could be lots of things. Poor Mileage - Plugs use NGK copper - Wires, use NGK or Subaru - Coolant Temp Sensor - O2 Sensor Leaking fuel injector could cause the issue as fuel pressure drops. Next time it happens instead of cranking for 20 seconds, if it does not fire right away, stop and then try starting it again.
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I'd leave it. I see that all the time, it's coming from the breather. Cam if you want to.
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Check your rear diff. My son and my Daughters cars over the years both had a rear half shaft pop out about a 1/2. All the torque was going no where. They were both manual transmissions and it felt just like a slipping clutch. One way to confirm the rear diff is good is to try to turn the input shaft/rear drive shaft with both rear wheels on the ground. It should not rotate.
- 22 replies
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- transfer case
- rear wheel drive
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No I believe it was an 02 Forester. The trans had the same number so it should be a direct plug and play. I believe I have it solved, the Inhibitor switch was slightly off. I rotated it about an 1/8" clockwise and the short test drive was good. Additional road time will confirm the fix. When the shop saw the trans shift to neutral and then come back into gear and with the trans shifting well in the manual mode I saw the light! Thanks for the Help. Larry
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I took it to a quality trans shop today. With the scanner on they could see the trans shift into neutral and then back into gear. I'm going to check the Inhibitor switch as I'm thinking the TCU may be seeing the trans shift to neutral and then back into gear under high revs if things move enough. This would make sense as the trans shifts well if I keep the RPM in the 2-3K range or if I manually shift the trans!
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Are you sure they didn't leave the rear trans drive shaft unbolted? When I tow, I remove the 4 bolts between the drive shaft and rear diff.
- 22 replies
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- transfer case
- rear wheel drive
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Thanks, I checked it but there is no yellow wire in that row of B137 From the back of the connector the Left side the first pin is pink with green stripe The other end of the connector, right side close to the second connector in the row is a green wire. the connector is p p I p p I x x I p p I p p so 8 pins, only 7 wires. The diagram I have shows the yellow wire going in on pin 17 It also shows a connection to a pink wire which goes in on pin 1 Not sure I'm trusting the Mitchell repair information i got. do you show a wire color for pin 9? Thanks Larry
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I've done a few. I always punch mark the trans and the retainer and then turn it tight and punch the retainer again to align with the trans housing punch mark. I try to count the turns coming off but putting it back in counting turns can be hard, so I turn it by hand until it bottoms, the second set of punch marks aligned most often and then back it off until the first punch marks align. Usually about two teeth (for lack of a better word of the bosses on the retainer).
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you may have damage the TC input shaft seal. The bad part is you will have to pull the trans to replace it. Make sure you used the tick mark on the back crank tooth instead of the arrow on the front of the crank gear. Common error
- 8 replies
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- ej22
- timing belt
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