lmdew

Is it an automatic trans? Is the AT Temp light flashing 16 times after you start the car? If so, torque bind most likely!

Did you get the knock sensor properly positioned? It has to be clocked so the plug end of the sensor is in the cutout and it sits flat on the engine. If you didn't do that you may have damaged the new knock sensor. Yes, mis fires can cause loss of power, as will the retarded timing due to sensed knocks.

Yes get some miles on it. If it's running well, I would not worry to much about numbers. I bet things will even out as you run it.

As listed above NGK Copper core Plugs and Subaru or NGK wires. First step. If it turns out you need a coil, I have several Subaru coils.

You can take the old radiator to radiator shop and they can check the flow. Sounds like you have an air bubble in the coolant system. Search Burping. You can put the Stat in a pan of water and heat it up and make sure it's opening at the correct temp. It can be hard to move the air out of the coolant system if it's in there. Some, start the engine and fill as the engine is running. I usually jack the car as high as possible in the front, back fill the engine with coolant and then start the engine and fill the coolant slowly the rest of the way. With the heat on high, keep on filling the system as it heats up. Once the coolant starts to come up in the radiator, put the cap on and let it come to temp. Shut it down and let it cool. The system will draw coolant in from the overflow bottle. You may have bad radiator cap if it's not allowing the coolant to be sucked in.

The square brown one, it was the one in the middle of the bank of 3. Two round ones on the outside and the square one in the middle. I assume it's the main relay, but I did not look it up.

No electrical power to the engine. It was like someone had turned the key off but the key was still on.

Help a friend with his 97 OBS. It would die, no power, no CEL codes. I dropped the driver Kick panel and looked way up there at the relay bank. The square relay, had corrosion growing out of it. Replaced the relay and cleaned the connector, and the problem is solved. Happy Subaru owner again.

Two different problems. The Flashing AT Temp light tells you there is a fault in the trans. Search Torque bind. The Knock Sensor fault will retard the timing which will degrade performance - power. Misfire on #2, start with the basics, New NGK Plugs, New Plug Wires, Subaru or NGK and Sea Foam in the gas tank. Map Sensor, Clean the connector first. Misfires are not a good thing for an engine and should be corrected to prevent additional wear and tear.

Nick you can just list it on EBay and you will get a free report and then cancel the listing. Hope all is well, Larry Is this Eric's or are you buying a replacement? 3 (98) outbacks 2.5 to 2.2 conversions in the works right now, 1 Auto and 2 5 speeds. Larry

Sad to say, I have not gotten to the Pan, nor did I replace the valve stem seals. I know I could do both with the engine in the car but might just be easier to pull it. It will go to the sideline for a month or so, got 6 other ones that I'm working on and lots of travel for work. Thanks for the feedback! Larry

Gunk Engine Cleaner helped, as I ran the engine with it in the oil I could hear the change. The oil consumption is down but still high, a quart of more every tank, 300 miles. I can get the engine to smoke out the tail pipe if I rev the engine numerous times quickly Idle to 4000 RPM and back. Steady RPM it's no smoke. Review of items done and the engine: 154K 2.5 SHOC 2000 - Had bent intake valve, so I surfaced the head, glass plate and replaced and lapped all the valves. Engine runs great. - New Subaru PCV - All hosed clean and connected properly - Seafoam in the gas and Oil - MMO in the oil - Leak down check, see numbers above - Gunk Engine cleaner, seemed to help but did no solve the problem - No external leaks - Runs Great Pretty much down to stuck Oil control rings, engine pull. Thoughts?

Yes, they can be tough. Slip joint pliers behind the Tee Handle on the boot and the Lever it straight out. There is a special Spark Plug Wire Puller but this works most of the time. For the Mis-fire grab the CEL code first. Use only NGK copper core plugs, the cheap ones and NGK or Subaru Wires. Anything else and your asking for trouble.

Auto Trans as it's a Limited? Might have a sticking brake switch.

I just changed one and it worked fine. I pin punched it and then tighten it until I felt resistance - tight, it was about 1 3/4 teeth. It was just a nice way to confirm the count. Count as you turn it back in and take it to tight and then back it up to the marks.

2003 2.5 Impreza SOHC had been using approx. a 1qt every 200 miles. - New Subaru PCV help some but did not cure the usage - All Hoses hooked up correctly - Only 3% leak down - No External leaks - Seafoam no change - MMO no change - Last attempt ran the Gunk Engine cleaner at idle for about 30 minutes (way longer the specified on the instructions) as it worked I could hear the engine change. So far so good, 200 miles and no oil usage, no smoke. Only 154K on the motor with new HG due to the bent valves of the timing going for the PO. I usually would not use the Internal "Cleaners" but I was down to pulling the engine apart so nothing to loose.

So after half a year, how's the motor doing?

It's still possible the timing moved even if the belt looks good. Need to check the crank, and both cam timing marks.

Rebuild 1500 - 2500 Swap in a 95-98 2.2 used motor 400-500 You pick. I love the swaps.

Could be, whoever did the work, did a crappy job (Brakes Plus) was mentioned by the PO. Why anyone would even go there is beyond me and to have engine work done at a brake shop just makes no sense. Just some of the things I notices when I removed the engine: - Missing Intake bolt - Wrong hardware on the engine lower mount studs - Lower Starter nut missing - Rear Power Steering mount bolt missing - Everything way over torqued I'd like to say you get what you pay for but they paid way to much for this "Crap".

Aft Intake Cam and bearing galled. Oil passage was clear as far as I could see but I didn't spend a lot of time as it's toast.

If my memory is correct the N-SW drops the voltage the ECU is sending, 5vdc drops to 0 vdc when the switch is made. This tells the ECU when you are in gear and when you are Not in gear. The ECU needs to see this switching or it will throw the code. It expects to see the shift action. Just disconnecting it will not solve the problem. I learned this after a Auto to manual swap in a 96 Legacy and it kept doing the same thing you indicated.

Could just be where the jack is placed. How the car rides is a much better indication of the health of the strut then how they extend when you jack the car. How's the clearance between the fenders and tires when the car is on the ground? Have you looked at the sway bar, bushings and links?

Mostly, but the 96-99 DOHC 2.5 engines have internal head gasket leaks that blow all the coolant out. Easy to check, look in the overflow bottle, any oil gunk stuff indicates the HG are leaking. Ask if they were done. Most people never know they are overheating their engine until it stops working or the steam is coming out from under the hood. If it go to long, the bottom end is most likely junk and you either need to replace the engine or do a complete rebuild. 2.2 can be swapped in.

If you're going to a self serve yard, pull the trans from a car that was hit hard. At least you know it was going down the road. I have a 2000 Outback Trans less front diff if you want parts off of it. The trans was rebuilt but the pinon went out on the front diff about 4 years after the rebuild.