lmdew

At the self serve yards you can pull the complete door in Colorado doors are $50 - $75 complete. It's a wire connector, 4 or 6 bolts and the pin that goes the the rod that keeps the door from opening to far. If you not in a rush, wait for one of the same color and there will be not difference. Waist to get it fixed and painted when you can bolt on a Subaru part from the yard.

Replace the o-ring on the PCV drain back tube at the back of the pan. If that doesn't seal you'll suck oily vapors into the PCV constantly and smoke like a pig and use lots of oil. I hope this is the problem in the 2001 2.5 that I did the HG on. The PO had bent all of the intake valves. It runs great but sucks a quart every 200 miles. Plugs are very dark and sooty.

Dipstick tube has 2 orings on it so it should be fine. Most likely people that had problems bent the tube getting it out. It's held on with a single 10mm bolt up on top of the engine.

I have done boots on the car. The inner boot is pretty easy as the inner joint is held on with a external snap ring. The outter one could be done but it takes a pretty solid hit against the inner joint to pop it off the axle.

Thanks, There is a 2001 at the Aurora UPAP that was hit pretty hard in the front. parts of the engine are still there and the trans is there. Someone pulled the half shafts without removing the roll pin so they pulled the stub shafts out as well. Think I'll just watch the COS UPAP and wait for one to come up.

Trans was rebuilt a few years ago by Aamco according to the PO. The front diff went on it, low gear lube i suspect, there are chunks in the diff. According to the yards and www.car-part.com the trans requires a 2002 or 2003. Think it's worth changing out the front Diff? Anyone with a Trans in CO? Thanks Larry

Most likely a the drive shaft seal in the tail shaft housing. Just have to clean it up and then find the leak.

Remember if you are reading voltage with no load on the circuit the meter can lie to you. Check out www.brighterideas.com or LoadPro on Youtube. Dan has some great electrical training. If you located the relay, you can remove it and jump the main contacts, that would provide power to the pump always. Do you have a Subaru or aftermarket Security system? I've removed so many of the aftermarket ones that were bad. Junk.

Yep, metal chunks in the Diff. The Trans was rebuilt by Amaco about 4 years ago according to the PO. Low on Gear lube Low on Trans fluid. Yes it pays to check fluids. So Replacement Trans is in order and the HG will be done as the Drivers side is leaking oil and coolant.

Best to have an 2.2 with EGR and matching dual port exhaust. Both of those issues can be overcome. Plug and Play. Double check the harness connections. If it was a early 95 really a 94, you could still use the engine, you would just need an intake from a 95 2.2

Thanks, I did not drain the front Diff yet, but I suspect it's gone. Large jumps in the drive when there is any pressure on it and I can spin one wheel and the opposite side does not rotate. I'll drain it and see what comes out.

Guess I may be the first on the USMB.

I've done swaps on 96 Auto to Manual Trans, but have the opportunity to pick up a 2003 with that needs engine and trans work. The trans was rebuilt once already, 4 years ago, and is having issues again. I could just source a used trans and drop it in but I like Manual transmissions better. Thanks

I drop the sway bar link and then with the ball joint nut on the bottom lose but still on beat the lower arm down. It will pull the joint out.

In my Humble Opinion IMHO. Yes the engine will bolt right up, but the trans and drive line is not built for the increased torque. To change the harness you need to pull the complete dash out, and then the STI harness will not plug into the dash connectors so you have to wire each circuit individually. If you want an STI, save your money and buy one. It can be done but the costs is high! Go over to www.nasioc.com and search there.

Life will be determined by how it was maintained. Over 300K is often obtained. It would be a lot of work and Money to try to drop in a Turbo motor. It can be done but the price would far out way the benefits, IMHO.

For the O2 sensor the code will tell you front or rear. If you have not changed the Front O2 sensor, take a look at the connector behind the air box on the passenger side and see which connector you have. You should also be able to plug your VIN in a Subaru website and it should give you the correct sensor. Same for the Ball Joint. Get some PB Blaster on the ball joint and O2 sensor a week or 2 ahead of time to make it an easier job.

Yes, Stay with the Forester! Just look in the engine compartment, the NA are much easier to work on and a lot less heat under the hood to cook all of the hoses and other things. The reliability of the Forester is much better than the WRX!

Flashing 16 times after you start tells you there is a fault in the trans and the TCU has it in the memory.

Forester Struts assy, you may have to change the top mount over on the back struts so the studs are the same as your car. Front's bolt right in, set the camber all the way in. It's usually pretty close. Rear's you need the trailing arm mount plate from the forester (it's about a 1/2" longer) and I usually use a trailing arm to knuckle bolt (smaller dia) for the top strut mount bolt. You can use the Forester Springs as well. About 2" of bolt on lift.

From Above: drain and fill the trans and then start the car. The trans will pump out about 3/4 of a gallon, shut off the car and fill the trans again. drain and fill the trans and then start the car. The trans will pump out about 3/4 of a gallon, shut off the car and fill the trans again.

Yes, Put on a door and live with the rest. Pocket the money for your next Subaru when you need one.

Make sure you are clear of the Frame with the engine mount. The alignment pins can be rusted in. You can try driving them forward or put a large screwdriver between the engine and trans and then move the passenger side back towards the trans. Keep the space between the engine and trans as close to the same as you can side to side.

Lots of the auto transmission cars do this. Can be the half shafts as noted above. The Subaru just wants to go!

The engine does not weigh that much. You could build a simple A frame out of 2x4 with a 2.x6 cross beam. That ill hold the engine and give you plenty of reach to lift it clear of the engine bay. Read up on the rear breather plate and leave the rear seal alone unless you know for sure it's leaking. 99.9% of the time it's the breather plate leaking. Larry