lmdew

Yes it will bolt right up and plug in and run. If the EGR is not the same the CEL will come on, but you can work around that.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/150078-2005-outback-120k-6000-co/ $6000 HEAD Gasket leaks Tire wear Trans Fluid

Does your AT Temp light flash 16 times after you start the car? You might have Torque Bind. Have to ask yourself what caused the diff to fail? Once you drop out the Diff, you will see a 2 letter/number code painted in white on top of the housing. That gives you the ratio. You can also use the Trans # to get the ratio. Make sure the front and rear Diff's have the same ratio.

Yes you are OK.

Yep, your good. Pull the tensioner pin and turn it over manually 4 times, making sure everything is OK.

It un-screws. It also sets the bearing clearance so it has to go pack to the same place. - Wire brush and clean it the best you can - shoot it with PB Blaster or the like and let it soak - Center punch the trans and seal retainer so you can put it back to the same spot - Take your prybar or large straight slot and put it into the slots - Tighten it hand tight, so you know how much play was set for the bearimg. Center punch 2 marks - Try turning it out. If it does not move you can try a punch and hammer, but expect to break off some of the tabs - Remove the retainer, get the correct LH or RH Seal and o-ring from Subaru - Lube the oring - Install the retainer with the new seal already installed

Do you have torque bind? AT Temp light flashing 16 times after you start the car?

41 Air/fuel adaptive control I'd clear it and see if it comes back.

Check the gear oil levels front and rear diff. Check the drive shaft U-joints.

Check the Computer. There are two single plug connectors under the drivers kick panel. Green Diagonstic Black ECU Codes, turn on the key and count the flashes. Check for Spark, if you have spark, the computer is getting the correct signals Put a little gas in the intake, does it start and run, if so you have a fuel problem Pull the side Timing Belt Covers and check to see if you are correctly timed. I'd do it in that order and you should have a good idea what the problem is.

Pull the plastic cover around the bottom Hook Loosen the two 12 mm bolts Take a block of wood and hammer and give it a good wack You can move it in about 1/8-1/4" Tighten the Bolts Put it back together

Well, you could tell them you don't want it back until it's fixed. I'd ask if they contacted Subaru North America? Good luck,

Just pull it off the engine and get an junk yard iac hose to replace it.

Make sure it's not a water pump or hose leak. If it's coming from the HG as long as you keep the fluids topped off you can drive it. The external HG leaks of the 2000+ SOHC engines are not as bad as the internal 96-99 DOHC engines.

Bet your 1" hose going from the airbox to the IAC is off.

Glad you got it! Just hit the USMB EASY BUTTON

Washers only will add some shear load. I'd get a plate built to drop on top.

Yes the turn signals go through the emergency switch.

Still have not listed the codes. Any auto parts store will read them for free. Codes Clear Codes (disconnect the battery for an hour Drive, if the CEL comes back on get the code Anything less and you are loading the parts cannon!

Did you plug the emergency flasher button back in when you installed the vent panel? Most likely that's it.

agree! not worth it

Tick mark on the back crank tooth lines up with the tic mark on the top of the oil pump cover!

The computer is not seeing the neutral switch most likely. It still thinks the trans is in gear. You can find the wires coming up the trans, right at the back of the engine. Disconnect the plug and use a meter to check for OL and 0.0 ohms. Switch open and closed when you shift in and out of N.

There are several layers of metal in those. I cut some out for another member. 2 trips to the yard with a Dewalt and 3 extra batteries.

If the old one was broken, did you ask yourself Why? Is the pressure plate stuck? Bad pivot for the fork?