lmdew

Great!

If you provide a good ground does it work? www.brighterideas.com You meter can lie to you. Larry

No FWD fuse on a 5sp trans. Not worth the possible problems, get a flatbed truck or take new tires to her.

Yes or from the bottom. Use a 6 point socket! Make sure you read on seating the TC and you should inspect and or change the TC seal on the trans.

The 3m headlight cleaner is good. Also make sure your bulb connectors are clean and tight. The cover is glued to the housing, it won't come off.

Problem is that area is 3 or 4 layers of skin. When you try to weld it, it's going to give you problems.

Quick fix for Torque Bind, a fixable transmission problem. Search Torque Bind and you will fine lots of good info.

Search PCV Valve. Put a New Subaru PCV on and make sure the vent lines are not plugged. The cup seal on the back corner of the oil pan can also fail and cause high oil consumption.

Time for a full rebuild or a different short block I'd say.

Likely to find more info at www.nasioc.com Larry

Can't hurt to try. Depends on how long it was run low on fluid.

It should be fine, you may want to have someone watch for trans fluid leaks. Stand to the side or follow you.

Under the front lower A-arm to body Aft mount point.

Yes, 80/90 W gear lube. I've been using the Walmart syn. blend (cause it pours much faster) for years with no issues.

Replace the complete shaft as they are balanced. 95-99 Legacy L or Limited will be the same.

95-99 half shafts are the same, some of the newer ones have the ABS ring on the half shaft. YPAP is fine, just make sure the boots are good and the overall condition is good. Stick to Subaru Parts is best.

The finish on the Subaru idlers outer skin seems much better, so the idea has some merit. I second the thoughts above. A jig to set the correct depth would be the best. Time and Money, how much would you save and how long does it take? Larry

Shawn at http://retroroo.com/ CCR use to the link to MWE, but I don't see it on their new site: http://ccrengines.com/ Google them and found this: I recently contacted MWE Axles and they asked me to post their new contact info. Formerly: “MWE Axles”. 2595 S. Salida Street. Aurora, Colorado. 80013 Phone: 1-303-522-8070 Email: fw1@juno.com or mwolf1303@juno.com

Yep, pretty easy to open once removed.

Interference engine Displacement right down on the block, behind the oil pressure switch External HG leaks, so look at the block to head seam, oil and/or coolant Good Price

New belt and what ever failed to have the belt chew through the cover. Most likely one or more of the pulleys are bad. The toothed idler is the one that fails most often. If you can find a good set at a yard, that's good enough for a test, but if it's good, you'll do the job again.

3 good self serve junk yards in SLC area.

I've seen the rear half shafts popped out of the diff about 1/2", acts like a slipping clutch on the manual trans.

Pull all the Timing Covers and check to ensure it's properly timed. Lot's of time the belt will hold, but timing jumps. I'd do that first so you don't bend valves. Hopefully you did not bend any yet.

No chip in a 2002 as far as I know. Subaru can cut a new one off the VIN.