lmdew

When you close the drivers door you have to hold the outter handle up, or it will unlock the door.

reseal Oil Seperator, Subaru metal ones are $12 0r so. locktite oil pump rear cover plate, new o-ring & reseal Cam & crank Seals New ngk plugs New valve cover gaskets

Get a Subaru PCV

Check the voltage under load! Both leads to the battery, check Voltage Have some one try to start, check Voltage, you should see a voltage drop under load Move the positive lead to the Starter terminal, check voltage Have someone try to start the car, what's the voltage drop Move to the positive going to the starter motor, down stream of the starter contacts - repeat. Record the voltage readings, this will tell you where the problem lies. Some great electrical training at: www.brighterideas.com Load Pro tool is great, but if you can check the system loaded and connected you can get by without the Load Pro.

Usually a pretty minor fix, Gas fill Pipe or Evap canister hose. pip

It's a good idea to keep the AC working all year long so the seals don't dry out.

Yep, Works! Wife's 98 Outback would not release or unlock. I could hear the lock cycling, but no joy. Read this, had her push the handle in and cycle the Locks, Rear Hatch Opened like Normal. THANKS USMB!

If you are set on the Defrost/windshield and heat, yes it's normal.

Good strap wrench, then take your ratchet & 6 point socket, put it on and hit the ratchet handle with a heavy hammer. If the flexplate is still on you can use it to lock up the crank. If option 1 or 2 does not work, you can pull a plug and stuff a bunch of rope down the plug hole to lock the cylinder as the piston comes up against the rope.

I'd get underneath and check the shifter linkage. you might also have someone rock the car while you try to free the shifter.

After the new Subaru T-Stat is installed make sure the coolant is properly filled and system burped.

Its a bunch of work, but your best bet is to hit the yard and grab a good box. Replace the entire thing.

Flex Plate. 2.2 and 2.5 are different OD's but both will bolt up to the crank.

Yes it will bolt right up and plug in and run. If the EGR is not the same the CEL will come on, but you can work around that.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/150078-2005-outback-120k-6000-co/ $6000 HEAD Gasket leaks Tire wear Trans Fluid

Does your AT Temp light flash 16 times after you start the car? You might have Torque Bind. Have to ask yourself what caused the diff to fail? Once you drop out the Diff, you will see a 2 letter/number code painted in white on top of the housing. That gives you the ratio. You can also use the Trans # to get the ratio. Make sure the front and rear Diff's have the same ratio.

Yes you are OK.

Yep, your good. Pull the tensioner pin and turn it over manually 4 times, making sure everything is OK.

It un-screws. It also sets the bearing clearance so it has to go pack to the same place. - Wire brush and clean it the best you can - shoot it with PB Blaster or the like and let it soak - Center punch the trans and seal retainer so you can put it back to the same spot - Take your prybar or large straight slot and put it into the slots - Tighten it hand tight, so you know how much play was set for the bearimg. Center punch 2 marks - Try turning it out. If it does not move you can try a punch and hammer, but expect to break off some of the tabs - Remove the retainer, get the correct LH or RH Seal and o-ring from Subaru - Lube the oring - Install the retainer with the new seal already installed

Do you have torque bind? AT Temp light flashing 16 times after you start the car?

41 Air/fuel adaptive control I'd clear it and see if it comes back.

Check the gear oil levels front and rear diff. Check the drive shaft U-joints.

Check the Computer. There are two single plug connectors under the drivers kick panel. Green Diagonstic Black ECU Codes, turn on the key and count the flashes. Check for Spark, if you have spark, the computer is getting the correct signals Put a little gas in the intake, does it start and run, if so you have a fuel problem Pull the side Timing Belt Covers and check to see if you are correctly timed. I'd do it in that order and you should have a good idea what the problem is.

Pull the plastic cover around the bottom Hook Loosen the two 12 mm bolts Take a block of wood and hammer and give it a good wack You can move it in about 1/8-1/4" Tighten the Bolts Put it back together

Well, you could tell them you don't want it back until it's fixed. I'd ask if they contacted Subaru North America? Good luck,