lmdew

I've considered them a bunch but compared to the 98 Outback with a 95 2.2 its got me saying no I don't need all that stuff under the hood.

Pretty easy to change and I've found a bunch at the yards with a key in them. - Pull the covers - Drill the two bolts heads off from the top - Unplug the electrical connectors You can use normal 12mm bolts to install it. Re key the door locks if you want them to match.

Get a Subaru rear main and the new metal breather plate. take a tube of gray RTV to seal the breather.

Easy, but most yards cut the cat's out as they can not sell them. If you are lucky you may find one that still has the fwd flange on it, otherwise you will have to have one welded on. You might also be able to get one from someone parting out a car. 14mm nuts on the front exhaust 14mm and 12mm on the joints Rubber donuts that hold the exhaust up. Takes about 10 minutes to drop the complete exhaust if your not fighting rust.

Dash lights get their ground through the radio, it's the last item in the circuit. If you remove the ground, there is voltage sitting at the end of the wire looking for a ground! Find the factory wiring and you will see it.

MAF Sensor, they have MAF cleaner spray at Auto Parts Stores IAC - Grab a can of Seafoam and pour 1/3 of the can into the large 1" tube going to the Idle Air Control IAC Valve. Let it sit for about 30 minutes and then start it up. Expect smoke as the seafoam will be sucked into the cylinders.

The TPS is adjustable but I doubt that is your problem. Start with he simple stuff: - Copper core plugs NGK, how old are your plugs? - Clean the IAC, it controls the idle speed - New NGK or Subaru Plug wires - New Air Filter, & clean the MAF - New fuel Filter Do as necessary to bring your maintenance up to date. No accelerator pump.

Yes, comtec HG they have one for the franken motor. I would not rule out the 2.2, as they do fine.

I doubt it's the CAT. You have to think, why does it only happen when I back up? I'd make sure you don't have anything stuck to the driveline that may be getting on the exhaust. Make sure all the CV joint boots are good.

Could be bad plug wires or cam or crank sensor wires are bad. You can pop the hood and spray some water on the plug wires and then have someone try to start it while you watch.

Most of the time most wear is in the damper up front. If you slide a couple of straight slot screwdrivers behind the crank gear (avoid the trigger teeth) you will most likely be able to slide it off. Replace the key, replace the worn damper and torque to 125 ft lbs. If it won't come off, you may get by with just torque.

About 5" across. The bracket mount points are much less. I found a pair on Ebay a few years ago that I mounted with the stock bracket. They worked pretty well.

Aftermarket Security System?

Have your anti freeze checked to make sure it will handle the cold temps.

Put a little fuel in the Intake through the throttle. If it starts and runs for a short time, then you know it's fuel related. Is the CEL on? If so what's the code/s? Good Luck

3M Headlight kit works pretty well, or have the professionally restored. HID kits can be installed. The 96 Outbacks have a fog light kit that mounts in the lower bumper.

Most likely the motor. I'd check for voltage at the motor or grab a used one and plug it in. Could be the switch arm or wiring.

Just slides on. I had one that was trashed and had to be beat off. I'd put a come along back to the rear suspension and pull it off. Tap the joint as needed. I bet they put JB Weld or something on the shaft to keep it from falling off.

Yep, Moto Guzzi, A&P, USNR, Subaru's, life is good. Hit the yard and pull one. Just clip the brake lines. Make sure you don't push the brake all the way down when you bleed it.

Search you tube for Subaru Head Gaskets, some pretty good info if you need to go there.

As grossgary has said in another thread, drive the car and then use a laser temp gun to check the hub temp. If you find a high on, there is your problem. Jacking and running will not tell you much as there is no load on the bearing. The only way to check a bearing by hand is to pull the brakes, the axle and then spin the hub, look feel and listen. Larry

That's a job! Even tough the Dash connectors are the same, the dashes are different. if you have the OBS dash, I'd plug it in and see if your faults go away.

Many times when people bleed the brakes, they damage the master cylinder by allowing the pistons to go into areas that they have not gone for years. It wipes out the seals in the MC. I always put a 2x4 under the brake pedal to prevent this. If you have a good air-free system the MC is likely.

On older Subaru's high idle RPM when cold is normal. Gas mileage always goes down in Winter, all that sitting letting the car warm up.

It's best to put the spare on the rear and the fuse in. That way the two different size tires are not fighting the driveline.