lmdew

That's a job! Even tough the Dash connectors are the same, the dashes are different. if you have the OBS dash, I'd plug it in and see if your faults go away.

Many times when people bleed the brakes, they damage the master cylinder by allowing the pistons to go into areas that they have not gone for years. It wipes out the seals in the MC. I always put a 2x4 under the brake pedal to prevent this. If you have a good air-free system the MC is likely.

On older Subaru's high idle RPM when cold is normal. Gas mileage always goes down in Winter, all that sitting letting the car warm up.

It's best to put the spare on the rear and the fuse in. That way the two different size tires are not fighting the driveline.

Is the CEL on? If so get the codes read. You say the idle problem only happens in Neutral, if that is the case you may have a bad Neutral SW on the trans. My OBS had 325K on it. I love it.

You can do it in the car, but if you have other maintenance that needs to be done, Clutch or Rear Breather plate it's easier to pull the engine. Only another hour or so and much easier to clean the block.

Here you go: http://boulder.craigslist.org/cto/4794854107.html

You don't have enough driving for them to be complete yet.

Need to pull them and replace the busted clips. Wait until it's warm if you can, the panel will come off much easier with fewer busted clips.

You might get lucky with no bent valves. Most likely a frozen up geared idler pulley. Only way to tell is to pull the timing covers. You will need to pull all 3 to get a full picture, but pulling just the outside 2 covers will give you a hint of what happened. You can fix the problem, hang a new timing belt and turn it over by hand to make sure its not significant damage. If it checks good, start it up and listen to it. You can do a compression check and or check the exhaust for signs of bent valves or worst.

There is a special tool to lock them. Without that, the best way is to run an old chunk of tbelt around the cam and crank pulleys and clamp them together in the middle with a vise grips. Works for torquing the bolt as well. Was your water pump leaking? They don't fail often. If it was an overheat problem, read up on Head Gasket failures.

I think the length is different. If you have one, it's easy to check, just jack up the rear get it on jack stands and then try the drive shaft you have. Slide it into the trans, see if the mid bearing bolts up. Bolt it to the rear dif. It will either work or not. If not, you will see what you need. Yes torque bind is likely!

Pretty easy swap, just take the 95 2.2 intake manifold, complete with the harness and bolt it onto the 91. The only issue may be the EGR if the 95 has one. There's a work around for the EGR is you need it.

A little new for most of us on the USMB. I consider a 99 a new Subaru and if I go into the 2000-2008 it's almost coming off the Dealers floor. You might consider a good 2000-2004 for under $5000 you can find a great used Subaru.

As long as the frame rail is not bent aft of the Strut tower or the strut tower damaged you can fix it pretty easy. Cut or pull out the damaged sections and weld in new used parts.

KYB's Best deal I get on them is when I find an almost new set in the junk yard. I grab them when I see them $25 each complete, strut, spring and top hat. Amazon or Ebay also has some good prices on KYB strut sets from time to time.

Don't mess with the rear main unless you know it's bad. Most of the time the oil is coming from the breather plate. Changed rear main seals cause more leaks than they fix.

If its just the foam, grab a passenger side, usually in better shape, and install on the drivers side.

Do the 2.2 swap with a good used engine and Save! www.car-part.com you can search the yards. UPAP - You pull the used eng $250 Rebuild your engine, he does a good job - $1500 http://rockies.craigslist.org/pts/4819185985.html

Phone Call, Email and PM, no response yet. Anyone heard from Shawn? I take it he's out on Christmas/Happy New Year. Man he deserves a Holiday.

Short drives, will kill the battery, as it never fully charges. High draw when you start and then a short drive never charges the battery fully. Check the voltage when running to make sure it's charging properly.

yes, you might just try cleaning and drying out the connector. Only 1 10mm bolt to change the sensor.

Not running, $500 - $1000 depending on condition. Most likely you bent valves at a minimum. Sell if you can, unless you can do the work yourself.

Don't drive it until it's fixed, you'll cause more damage!

Do you have a sun roof? Could be a drain is clogged. But the above advice is great!