lmdew

If you don't have need of the parts, it's most likely a better idea just to scrap it. Engine - $150-200 if it runs good Trans - $50 with TB Seats $20 Most yards will give you $75-200 for the car Scrap value about $140

When you bleed the brakes, you should not let the brake go down further than it normally does. Putting a 2x4 on the floor usually keeps it in a safe zone. If you take it all the way to the floor, the piston is working in an area of the cylinder that may have built up crud and it can take out the seal. I'd try bleeding it again. If you pump the brakes do you get a better feel? Then air in the system.

You can tap the trany for an heli coil. The hole is the correct size for the 14mm stud. I've done several this way. You can do it after the engine is in. I've worked from the bottom.

The 99 canister is in the back of the car. Just loop the 95 lines hooking them together. It works well if you put the larger line over the smaller one and just make them u-turn at the hard lines. You only need about 2" of vac line to do it.

The wire to the C-Duty is very short, and had to be unplugged as you pull off the tail shaft.

The pulley should always move, if it sticks when you tighten it it's not assembled correctly.

Small wire on the back of the starter! If it's not connected, the starter main contact's will not close and not battery voltage to the starter motor.

Yes they will bolt up, sometimes the brackets need to be moved as well.

If you still have the covers off the TBelt take a picture of the timing marks.

Make sure you are using the tick mark in the back of the crank gear and not the arrow on the front. Do you have compression when turning it over by hand? Do you have Spark? Have you tried adding a cap full of gas to the intake?

yes, it sounds like a water pump leak. The water pump is driven by the timing belt, so depending on the milage you may be do for a timing belt and seals. Search here or check you tube, there is lots of good information available. Overheating a Subaru engine is bad! Hopefully you have not done major damage. Find a good Subaru Mechanic or USMB member close by to help you out.

Do you smell fuel in the exhaust? Could be you have a leaking injector and it's flooded.

Usually they are either good or failed. Might check the wiring and plug. When it does not start are you getting fuel and no spark?

Do you know if they were working when the eng&trans were in the RS? Speedo, I'd swap the sender from the old trans on to the RS Trans.

Love my 98 OBS, 326K 5sp and I get 28-29 mpg all the time.

FADE all the way to the front?

Is the temp gauge getting above the 1/2 way mark? The fans are independent and 2 speed on one or both. If the engine is hot a single fans comes on, if you have the AC on, both fans should come on. Is your AC Charge low?

Thanks, used is the way I'll go.

Repair this trans or replace it with a used one? UPAP trans are only $125 and not to hard to find, so I'm thinking replace the trans and then when I have more time I could split this one and see how bad things are inside.

I just picked up a 97 OBS project - 281K - Clutch was totally out, the center had broken out of the disk. A cheap clutch for sure - I put a good clutch in, the trans shifts fine, up and down but will not go into 4th. I have not checked the linkage yet. - The Trans input shaft did have a little play, but not bad for 281K I'm thinking a used trans,but thought I'd ask. Thanks, Larry

You can raise the engine with the mount nuts off or drive out the half shaft pin and slide it out a bit. I do a 6 point socket on a 3/8 universal and 6" extension. It usually works fine.

If you have any other engine maintenance to do, it's easier to pull the engine that drop the trans to do the clutch. Don't mess with the rear main, most of the time people that change it cause leaks.

Is the CEL on when it's running rough? I'd put it in the diagnostic mode and run it to see what comes up.

Dealer or junk yard. I often pull good ones in rust free CO. In OH they are most likely all like yours.

The half shaft slips into the Knuckle. Brake caliper, Brake Hose, Backing Plate, Hub and E-brake cable will do the trick.