lmdew
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Everything posted by lmdew
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I picked up a 99 Outback 2.5 DOHC. I ran but no power, I could hardly keep it running. The Timing is good, I pulled the plugs, the back 2 where heavy deposits but white in color The front 2 had heavy deposits, black as can be. With the new NGK plugs it ran a little better but still lacks power and will not idle. 218K on the car, the HG appear to be OK and the oil is good. Any chance of cleaning this out and making it a good Subaru or should I just drop my 2.2 in it and call it a day? Thanks, Larry -
There is no adjustment to the linkage Linkage can get sloppy, new bushings. If it's just reverse, I'd make sure the Gear Lube level is correct and drive it home. Once home, drain the gear lube, check for metal and then service with new GL. See how it goes. Used Trans is a good option. .
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Good to hear, glad you got it back on the road. Larry
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Do a leak down check. If the valve/s are bent, take care of it before you install it.
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I have a set of the HG you need to do this conversion. $20 less then costs. I got them, the box is still closed. Larry
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Yep, cheap clutch, replace with a good one.
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I don't know why I did think of this years ago. If you need to remove the flex plate, fly wheel, or front crank damper with the engine out it's a little difficult when you are by your self. A couple of engine changes ago, I found an easy solution, the double box end wrench, I'm using my 13mm - 15mm. Simply put a 12mm bolt into the flywheel through one end of the wrench and then turn the flywheel until the other end will drop over the long engine stud. Works going on or off to lock up the crank.
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I have a complete tail shaft and clutch assy. Shoot me an offer if you want it. Shipped from CO 80919 Larry
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Possible you have a fuel problem. Subaru Wires? Subaru Coil? Search for P0420, there is some good information and threads on it.
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Sounds like the shift cable broke or is out of adjustment. It's pretty easy to check and adjust if necessary. Get a good manual and it will show you how to do it. Larry
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There are several 2000-2004 in the yard, Forester, Legacy Outbacks... if you want me to pull and ship one I can. $45 shipped. Larry, 80919
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I taught my Kids and suggest to everyone to check the oil at every gas fill up. You're standing around anyway waiting on the gas to fill, pop the hood and take a look: Oil Collant Power steering fluid Leaks Strange stuff
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I picked up a 97 Outback 5sp that had a 2.2 in it. It threw a rod, light metal flake in the drain oil. Are the heads worth trying to save? Thanks, Larry
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Put the FWD fuse in and see if it changes. Sounds like you are in full time 4wd. The C-duty is not releasing the rear drive shafts in a sharp turn. Search torque bind. Did you double check the transmission connectors on top of the trans? Did you jack up the trans by the pan and may be dented it in? Is the trans light blinking 16 times when you start? Read the trans codes or have them read.
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The smaller bolt will take care of the rear. The fronts, you may have to get the adjustable top strut mounts.
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Front or rear? I've used the 12mm bolt from the bottom mount point, a spare on the top strut mount. It allows you to put the top in about a 1/8". It has worked great on several lifted OBS.
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What if you manually shift from gear to gear? You might take it to a trans shop and ask them to evaluate it. They can put on their computer and drive the car and watch the trans.
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Do it when the engine is cold. The preformed lines are nice, but you can get by with straight hose, just make sure you don't kink it. Remove the airbox Drivers side is pretty easy, just remove the clams and hose and replace The passenger side is a little harder access but it can be done. Fill the overflow bottle to the proper level.
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I was doing a 99 2.5 to 2.2 swap and need an EGR line. I have several, but they all seem that the threaded fitting is to long. The line does not tighten up against the head before the fitting gets tight. Is there a difference in these lines? When I match the old cut one up it is about an 1/8" shorter, so it seems that there is a difference in the years. Thanks, Larry
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Good visual inspection is first. Don't waist your money buying parts, until you know what you need.
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Can this be right $12 for the cup seal? Engine Oil Pan Gasket Subaru - Legacy (1997) * Oil Pan Sealing Ring $16.03 -- $12.02 Guess I'll check around.
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Get a Subaru Pump! I'd get a used Subaru pump over an aftermarket any day.
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If you don't have need of the parts, it's most likely a better idea just to scrap it. Engine - $150-200 if it runs good Trans - $50 with TB Seats $20 Most yards will give you $75-200 for the car Scrap value about $140
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When you bleed the brakes, you should not let the brake go down further than it normally does. Putting a 2x4 on the floor usually keeps it in a safe zone. If you take it all the way to the floor, the piston is working in an area of the cylinder that may have built up crud and it can take out the seal. I'd try bleeding it again. If you pump the brakes do you get a better feel? Then air in the system.
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2.5 to 2.2 Swap
lmdew replied to xyzb's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
You can tap the trany for an heli coil. The hole is the correct size for the 14mm stud. I've done several this way. You can do it after the engine is in. I've worked from the bottom.
