lmdew

A friend is selling a 90 XT6, Auto. Silver. 138K It came from Alaska, there is a little bottom rocker rust, which has been primed. Silver, some clear coat pealing. It runs and shifts great. New Tires He's asking $1000 Larry

The better half's 98 Outback Alternator went out, the shop says. The car is back at home and I FedEx a good alternator to Valpo. It should be there Monday. Done by a shop for < $90 with the alt I sent. Thanks, Larry

Pic? Smaller dia bolt on the top will also help.

Do you have a Security system installed? Aftermarket ones can cause problems! You could have the Mechanic install some lead wires off the starter contacts that would go to a meter to check the voltage at the starter! The next time it happened you could check voltage: 1) going to the starter 2) to the starter control contacts 3) at the starter motor

If you can, pull your rear struts and take the top mount along to match up the stud pattern and match it to the spring style. Yes, the Outback trailing arm mounts.

Top mounts bolt spread can be different. You may have to switch tophats over.

Outback or Forester struts will work. I use the trailing arm aft bolt, get and extra set, for the top strut bolt. It's about perfect. About 2" of lift. The trailing arm is the same, you need the bracket that mounts to the frame/body Nice lift and extra caring capability. I did one for a Painter and he's load 10 5 gallon buckets of paint and his compressor in the back and it would be just fine.

If it's an aftermarket system, I'd remove it. Not worth the pain. Subaru Systems are good.

No they last forever!

Yep, Load Ground Power. The three items in any circuit. What is providing the ground? What work was done just before this started happening? Subaru or aftermarket radio? Good Luck, Larry

Drop in a good old 95 2.2 and drive it for another 10 years.

Good folks at CCR.

There are a couple of relays in the engine compartment fuse box that control the voltage to headlights. You could pull the relay and jump the main contacts to see if they work directly. Check the fuses in there as well. Load, Ground, Power those three components make up an electrical circuit. Search Load Pro on you tube, you will find some great electrical training videos by Dan Sullivan.

It would help to know the year and engine installed. Also check your radiator when it's cold. Make sure the radiator is full. Coolant loss: External leak, park one a white sheet or large cardboard piece and look for leaks Head Gasket Leaks, coolant can go into the combustion area or be pushed out of the overflow bottle by combustion gasses. Water pump, hoses, water pump, all external leaks Heater Core leak, inside the car, you'll smell it and the carpet will be wet.

When it does it, I'd have a spare plug and plug wire you could hook up and see if the plug is firing. No spark - cam or crank sensor could be bad If you have spark do you have fuel, pull the intake off and put a cap or two of gas in the intake and see if it starts. If so, the MAF could be going out. Good luck, Larry

What's your email? I'll send you a plugs pic. Larry

Subaru and they look good. I may swap them out with spares when I have time to see if it makes a difference. Thanks for the info. Larry

Deposits were hard and very heavy. Rear Plugs White and crusty Front Plugs Black and hard With the mileage at 218K and the fact that it's a DOHC, I think it's time for the 2.2 swap.

I picked up a 99 Outback 2.5 DOHC. I ran but no power, I could hardly keep it running. The Timing is good, I pulled the plugs, the back 2 where heavy deposits but white in color The front 2 had heavy deposits, black as can be. With the new NGK plugs it ran a little better but still lacks power and will not idle. 218K on the car, the HG appear to be OK and the oil is good. Any chance of cleaning this out and making it a good Subaru or should I just drop my 2.2 in it and call it a day? Thanks, Larry

There is no adjustment to the linkage Linkage can get sloppy, new bushings. If it's just reverse, I'd make sure the Gear Lube level is correct and drive it home. Once home, drain the gear lube, check for metal and then service with new GL. See how it goes. Used Trans is a good option. .

Good to hear, glad you got it back on the road. Larry

Do a leak down check. If the valve/s are bent, take care of it before you install it.

I have a set of the HG you need to do this conversion. $20 less then costs. I got them, the box is still closed. Larry

Yep, cheap clutch, replace with a good one.

I don't know why I did think of this years ago. If you need to remove the flex plate, fly wheel, or front crank damper with the engine out it's a little difficult when you are by your self. A couple of engine changes ago, I found an easy solution, the double box end wrench, I'm using my 13mm - 15mm. Simply put a 12mm bolt into the flywheel through one end of the wrench and then turn the flywheel until the other end will drop over the long engine stud. Works going on or off to lock up the crank.