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Everything posted by lmdew
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Get the Factory wiring, sometime you can find them online. Load, Ground Power Once you have all three located you can test the circuit. I've stripped a few cars of your vintage, if my memory serves me correctly, all the wiring runs down the passenger side door frame, lower rail. I believe there is a main connector up at the passenger side front kick panel as well. Find a good diagram, otherwise your just chasing your tail. You have done some good testing so far. Good Luck, Larry
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Did you check voltage with the fan connected or disconnected? If Disconnected you meter can lie to you. Check out Load Pro on you tube. You will find numerous videos Dan Sullivan has done on properly checking voltage. - Seeing Voltage in the connector you have ruled out: 1) Opens 2) Shorts You need to check the circuit under load (fan connected) or using the Load Pro to rule out high resistance.
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I did the engine swap a couple of years ago. Sold it to a fellow at work. He had the knock sensor P0325 & misfire on #3 P0303 pretty random for over a year. I suggested the normal: NGK Copper Plugs NGK Spark Plug Wires Gave him a knock sensor to put on gave him a set of fuel injectors to swap in He wanted to sell the car, so I got it back. He had not followed my advice on the NGK plugs and wires so I installed a set and drove the car for a couple of weeks. I sold it to another family friend the they drove it for over a month before the P0325 & P0303 codes came back. There is a slight miss, but over all runs well. About 210K mileage, 5sp. I have not adjusted the valves or taken a compression test. Other things? Thanks, Larry
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Lifted 2000 OBS
lmdew replied to lmdew's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Pics attached. The rear small hole is where the push plug goes in for the door sill plastic trim. The large hole is the one I cut in with the hole saw. Hope this helps someone down the line. -
Yes, the crank gear has to be removed to get a new key in!
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I'd pull the timing cover, clean out all the junk. If the T-belt and pulleys need to be replaced do it! You have an interference engine and if the timing goes, you will most likely bend valves. It will most likely be hard to remove the crank gear, but you can get it if you file any displaced metal and carefully work it off. Once it's off you can inspect the keyway and see how much damage there is to the crankshaft. I have had keys welded into the keyway and then replaced the gear and HB. It's still running fine. There is a company that sells a kit to mount the HB to the gear, using roll pins. Not cheap, but cheaper than a new engine. If you get a new key and HB in and then torque the bolt it will most likely last. I have HB and a key I could send to you if your in no rush. $25 shipped, USPS Priority.
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