lmdew

Thanks, yep that's what I thought. Used engine will be installed and all the other maintenance need done. The price was right so no worries. Thanks, Larry

I picked up a 2000 Forester. The person I got it from said she was running down the expressway and it started running rough. She pulled over and it quit. She could not get it started so she had it towed home. In her driveway, I could not rotate the engine forward, but it would rotate CCW looking at the engine. I pulled the timing covers - Timing is correct After rotating it backwards, I could rotate it CW but then it locked. It sounded like something hit at the back of the block Coil plugged in, and it tries to start That's where I left it, as the oil was very low and the coolant was way down. I was out of time for a few weeks. Work got in the way. 164K, Auto Trans The plan: 1) Drain what oil is there and check it for metal 2) Service the oil and coolant and see if it runs 3) Pull the engine if necessary Anyone ever have a flex plate fail and lock up an engine?

Step one, get a wire brush and clean the front face of the gears so you can see the actual timing mark "I" Then make sure it's timed correctly. If you have spark, put a cap of fuel in the intake and see if it starts.

No bent valves it's a non interference engine. Make sure the Cam and Crank Sensor plugs hooked up.

It would help to know year and motor you have in it. If you broke the timing belt while running, you may have bent valves!

Sounds like you did everything you could to get it back together correctly. I think you will have to measure the backlash on the gears to set the clearance. Or Throw a used trans in it and call it good and a learning experience.

A fellow I helped a few months ago had the same problem going on. After 2 new Parts store Alt and trying 2 used Subaru Alt's he finally stopped by. I found the main ground wire - Battery to Engine Block was loose. The cable and bracket were both badly pitted. I had a spare set of Subaru Battery Cables, so I changed them out. 14.3 Volts out of the Alt. He was a happy man.

All of that is easy stuff. Just get replacement parts and bolt them on. www.car-part.com

Great Deal! Yes loud roaring sound can be wheel bearings. There may be no free play in the wheel but they can still be bad. Check the hub after a trip and see if one is hotter than the rest. If you pull the hub you can usually feel the roughness in the bearing when turning it by hand. The neutral switch if most likely out on the trans. The computer does not know when the clutch is in or out. Easy to check.

If a cylinder is not firing, it will cause low power, usually not a knock. Rod bearing starting to go out, it sounds like.

The lower studs are not bolts but a nut on a stud. Same for the lower starter nut and stud. If you did by chance break off the head of the bolt, no problem, just pull the engine and then put a vise grips on what is left of the bolt and unscrew it once the engine is out.

The passenger side cam is off the lobes when the timing belt is being put on so yes it's easy to turn by hand. That's normal. You can put a little fuel in the intake and see if it fires and runs for a short period of time. Double check the cam and crank sensor plugs. You did use the tick mark on the back of the crank gear to line up the crank; correct?

If you seat has airbags built in the Yards may not sell the seats. I know the You Pull and Pay in Colorado Springs, CO will not sell seats with airbags in them anymore, even if you are not going to use the airbags in the car you are bolting the seats into.

Have the flywheel surfaced and while it's off reseal the rear breather plate on the back of the block. If it's the plastic one, the Subaru metal replacements are under $20. Gray RTV is the sealant to use when you put the plate back on.

If you can hear it lock and unlock with the remote and the key also turns fully each way the rod going to the lock is most likely off. The rear panel will pop off at the top. There are about 10 of the push in plastic pins that will pop out of the hole if you pull it straight back. The panel will not come all the way off as there are also retainers on the bottom lip of the panel. You should be able able to pull it back far enough to see the lock.

The 06 had a D shaped top hat and a tapered spring. The mounting studs were the same spacing. Seems too work great. Larry

I replaced the rear struts on my 06 Forester with a set of KYB's I had from a 98-04 Forester. The top hats and springs were different but the 00 KBY struts I had bolted right in, springs, and top hats. Brake line support brackets had to be modified a bit for the lines to go in but they worked great. I kept the 06 Springs and top hats if I ever need them.

I'd start by draining the diff and checking the gear lube for metal. Easier to change the complete trans, as the gears have to be properly shimmed to set the clearance.

Be happy to drive one back for the cost of the trip. I'm in SBN and ORD for work from time to time.

Seat Heaters.

Replaced the cluster today with a Junk yard one. Still no clock. I did search the USMB, didn't find an Impreza thread, I've fixed lots of the Forester clocks in the overhead panel with the bad solder joints

http://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/5936799310.html http://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/5921644688.html http://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/5932741616.html 3 nice options!

Pick up a nice rust free one from CO or AZ. Worth the trip. I'd be happy to watch the CO Craigslist for you. Good ones go FAST!

I have a nice rust free pan if you want it. $20 + shipping from CO. A good steam clean is where I'd start and then find the source of the leak, If the TC was pulled out of the trans and then reseated the main seal may be damaged. As others have said, the trans coolant lines may have been damaged when the engine was changed. The trans funnels with a plastic hose on them work great!

Model? Mileage? Any recent maintenance? When it's warm, is the top and bottom radiator hose warm/hot? You really can see coolant flow in a Subaru. Make sure the radiator is full when the engine is cold. Sometimes the coolant is not pulled back into the radiator from the overflow bottle.