lmdew

Missed the USMB for a few days. Hope all is well.

It's all internal to the cluster. The drive in the trans is just an electrical signal to the dash. I'd grab a used dash from a yard and put it in.

With the timing belt off you can rotate the cams so the valves are closed and then put the crank front belt pulley on and turn it with the bolt. The passenger side cam is free when the alignment mark is up, so those valves are closed The Drivers side cam is under spring pressure from the valves being open. You can rotate it about a 1/4 turn clockwise with a 17mm wrench on the cam sprocket bolt to close the valves. Once the crank is set, just rotate it back to the alignment mark.

Get a good used 97-99 Outback with a good old 2.2 motor installed. It will run forever and it's easy to work on. These came with the 2.5 DOHC but you can plug and play a 2.2 in easy. Nice, cheap insurance, nice car and it will get you where you want to go for under $4000

www.car-part.com Find a door near you and swap out the complete door. Easy! Cheap if you find one at a self serve yard.

How much movement do you get out of the fork? The slave cyl should be able to be put back together as it's just a seal cup. You will then have to bleed it. If you clipped the throw out bearing to the fork, there's really no where for it to go.

Bad Alt causing the battery light. Bad Main Ground wire, burnt contacts at the engine ground point. Fixed, Happy Subaru Owner. Thanks Gary! Larry

Yes t he Battery icon goes away with the Alt disconnected. Trying another one! No security stuff. Thanks, Larry

A fellow in town has a 95 Legacy, Auto. I gave him an Alt to fix his charging problem, it was used but good as far as I know. Gave him another used one, same thing. He stopped over today, good battery voltage 13 volts. I changed a the alt again, no luck. When the car is started battery voltage goes down to 12.5 volts and 12.3 with the light on. Fuses look good, connections clean. Then I noticed the battery light on the dash is on when the key is off. I have never seen this before. Help! Thanks, Larry

I have two sets of COMTEC H/G for the 2.5 block and 2.2 heads if you need them. I was going to build a high compression motor but have not done it. The 98 Impreza OBS I picked up for my Daughter with a thrown rod took 3 engines to get a good on. You never know with used engines, but over the years and 40+ junk yard engines I've only had 2 that did not work out. Larry

I have one I could send you. Don't fail often. Is your's bolted to the fuel rail? $15 shipped.

Good covers and no leaks keep things nice and clean and rust free.

You should be able to drill just the bolt and easyout it. Or buy reverse drills and it might back it out as you drill. Larry

Much easier to leave the trans in the car! Make sure you keep the TC fully seated in the trans and push it away from the flex plate once all 4 bolts are removed. It will move back about an 1/8" You will have to jack the trans about an 1" and 1/2 to allow the flex plate to clear the cross member. Don't jack on the pan as it will dent.

Yes, your flex plate will bolt right up. The biggest thing is to have a matching EGR. If your current engine has an EGR you need an EGR on the new engine. There are some work around's but since you bought the engine, I'm pretty sure you ensured they should match. Reseal the rear breather plate while the flywheel/flex plate are off with Gray RTV. A good used 95-98 2.2 engine would be a good option.

Nothing special about Subaru Pans. If they are the same shape and have the same number of bolts holding them on you are good to go. They are just sealed to the trans. It's something other than RTV but Gray RTV works well. NO Gasket.

Have a nice rust free CO $25+ shipping from 80919

www.car-part.com check for a yard engine. Your son will still learn a bunch from the engine replacement. There are a bunch of USMB members that rebuild engines full time. I work on older stuff 96-99 Outbacks were I can find a good used 2.2 for $300 and drop it in with new seals, timing belt... for under $500.

You'll need the ERG or it will throw codes, if you other car had an EGR. Best bet on the wiring would be to go to the yard and pull off a good intake and take a look at the wires. Basically down the middle of the intake tied to the fuel tubes but it's very tight under there.

Most likely. You can check and clean the sensor. Sometimes they are full of crud. Wire brush or sotchbrite the sensor and see if it changes.

Wasn't trying to be rude. But traveling through IL often for work I just don't get the thought process of a lot of IL drivers.

Or even an easier idea, watch for a good set of KYB Struts in a self server yard and pull the complete strut. $20 each is what I pay for them. Bolt them right in.

Don't drive 85 in a 55 MPH speed limit like all the other IL folks. Forester's are not as fuel efficient as other models due the the higher frontal area.

Nope, if you don't want it snip the belt. It's AC only. It is recommended to run the AC every month or so to keep the o-rings lubricated and system working. If you have not done that for years, it won't make any difference now. Not much of any MPG change as it's just rotating a belt when the AC is off. No load on the engine.

This is what I did. Ran fine, no codes. I would 'think' you could put a hole in the intake - after the air filter - put in one of those plastic hose barbs w/a rubber grommet sized to fit the hole, and run a line to the EGR hard line that normally goes to the head