lmdew

Both the FWD and AFT Drivers side drain tubes were off! I got both of them back on and tied with a zip strip without dropping the headliner. Remove the Visor Remove the Sunroof trim Remove the Driver upper Seat belt mount bolt Remove the rear Grab handle Remove the plastic Trim, Front, B-pilller and Rear just pull the rear one loose at the front side. Now you have room to gently pull the headliner down and see the drain tubes. The front one is right at the top of the A-piller The Rear is at the front of the C-piller. Put the tube on and add a tie-strap to hold it there. Put it all back together. You may want to check the other side,

Drivers side front and rear seat carpet are wet. I just picked up this car and swapped in a 2.2 motor. Now fixing other things. I was going to check the Sunroof drain for blockage but the sunroof will not go aft. The Motor works but it sounds like it slipping in the gear box. I have not dropped the headliner yet. Any quicker things to check first? I did search the forms and found a couple of post: The one below had the most info: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/117831-99-legacy-wagon-with-leaky-sunroof/?hl=%2Bsunroof+%2Bleak

Yes, pull the axle half shaft and then you can insert and seat the stub shaft with a rubber dead blow hammer of wood block and hammer. I'd also take a close look at the diff half shaft seal to make sure it's not damaged. If it needs to be changed, you may as well change it now.

Is the AT Temp light flashing 16 times after start? If so you have a code in the ECU you need to pull. Search this form for the instructions to do that.

We checked it yesterday and the AWD seems to be working fine. We put a bulb back in the CEL and its working, no codes. Thanks

The starter bolts should not be backing off if they are properly installed. But they are pretty easy and I'd just do it myself. Other things are not related at all to the trans work.

Changed out the trans today with one I had from a 2000. Shifts great. When I jacked one side and put it in drive the rear wheels did not turn. Not AT Temp flashing 16 times after start. I put the FWD fuse in and I got the light. I told my co-worker to drive it a bit, I hope the rear clutch pack engages. The PO of the trans said it worked great.

Yep several dual port y-pipes available in CO 80919 if his does not workout. Larry

You are welcome. When I pick up a car with an aftermarket it Goes in the trash.

There is a main power relay up under the dash. Check the ground at the engine block. Strange not to have any power. Don't have an aftermarket Security system do you?

Yep head over to GD!

Thanks wtdash! I'll help my co-worker install and we'll verify front and rears are turning at the same rate. Later, Larry

I did drill down on the above site, but I did not see the Trans #'s listed. If all else fails, I'll install the new trans and jack one side of the car off the ground. I'll mark the wheels and put in drive. After 10 rotations of the wheels, they should be in the same location if the Front and Rear Diff are the same. Thanks, Larry

So you need a front CAT with both O2 sensor fittings on it. I think I have a good one. Shipped from Colorado. Where are you?

Are there any CEL Codes? The mass airflow sensor could be going out.

Yep, take care of the T-Belt yourself. No need to do the water pump unless it's leaking. Subaru Water pumps are very good. It is an interference engine so you don't want the T-Belt to fail. Brake rotors will rust from non use. The rust will glaze instead of coming off clean. Drive it once a week to prevent rust. I have used a wire brush on a 4" grinder to remove the rust from cali

Friend has a 2002 Outback Wagon. Trans is slipping in Drive. It was run out of fluid. I have a used auto and was trying to find the codes, but I'm not finding the Autos. TZ1A4ZCDCA-RN TZ1A42CDBA-RM Same FDR? Thanks, Larry

It's on the main fuel pump assy inside the fuel tank. Passenger side. Pretty easy to change if the studs/nuts are not rusted and you use some WD-40 on the fuel lines. Subaru will have them new or pull one from a Self serve yard.

I have a 99 2.5 DOCH the PO put over $2600 into the heads and head gaskets. He ran it about 6000 miles before he got a rod knock. I have it listed in parts for sale. It has a Mitsuboshi Timing belt. New idlers... If you want any of the parts let me know. Larry

Best deal is KYB struts you find in the yard that someone else paid for. When I see them I grab them complete for $30 each and they are ready to bolt in.

I've always tell people, check the oil at every gas fill. You are there waiting on the tank to fill, Pop the hood and check the fluids and take a good look at the engine. Easy!

No sounds pretty good. Fluid is correct. Trans-x seems to have helped some. Time will tell. Thanks Larry

JB Weld seems to be working for the crack/leak. He got fluid back in it and it shifts fine R, and all Drive gears when first started. It will hard shift about 3000 RPM and then it is like it's in N. No forward or reverse. Stop the car, restart - still no go. Rev it long enough 10 minutes or so and we got Reverse but slipping. Reverse got us back to the parking lot. Shut it off for an hour or so and it will go into Drive again. Same symptoms. It's a long shot but I told him to try the Trans X treatment. We'll see. Thanks for the JB Weld idea.

I'd stay away from the Turbos. They take a nice to work on engine and fill it up with extra stuff you don't need to get from Point A to B. I love my 2000 Impreza OBS. It does everything I need. Just my thoughts.

You can do it either way. If the intake is off and it's an auto Trans leave it off until you have the torque Converter bolted up. Either way works.