lmdew

It's on the main fuel pump assy inside the fuel tank. Passenger side. Pretty easy to change if the studs/nuts are not rusted and you use some WD-40 on the fuel lines. Subaru will have them new or pull one from a Self serve yard.

I have a 99 2.5 DOCH the PO put over $2600 into the heads and head gaskets. He ran it about 6000 miles before he got a rod knock. I have it listed in parts for sale. It has a Mitsuboshi Timing belt. New idlers... If you want any of the parts let me know. Larry

Best deal is KYB struts you find in the yard that someone else paid for. When I see them I grab them complete for $30 each and they are ready to bolt in.

I've always tell people, check the oil at every gas fill. You are there waiting on the tank to fill, Pop the hood and check the fluids and take a good look at the engine. Easy!

No sounds pretty good. Fluid is correct. Trans-x seems to have helped some. Time will tell. Thanks Larry

JB Weld seems to be working for the crack/leak. He got fluid back in it and it shifts fine R, and all Drive gears when first started. It will hard shift about 3000 RPM and then it is like it's in N. No forward or reverse. Stop the car, restart - still no go. Rev it long enough 10 minutes or so and we got Reverse but slipping. Reverse got us back to the parking lot. Shut it off for an hour or so and it will go into Drive again. Same symptoms. It's a long shot but I told him to try the Trans X treatment. We'll see. Thanks for the JB Weld idea.

I'd stay away from the Turbos. They take a nice to work on engine and fill it up with extra stuff you don't need to get from Point A to B. I love my 2000 Impreza OBS. It does everything I need. Just my thoughts.

You can do it either way. If the intake is off and it's an auto Trans leave it off until you have the torque Converter bolted up. Either way works.

I replace the window regulator today. Works great. I could see the motor jumping the regulator teeth on the old one. Works great.

It could be the Fuel Pump or the relay that sends voltage to the fuel pump. If you have a self serve yard, pull a used Subaru Fuel Pump and get the connector side wiring from the car. With a couple of feet of wiring you can supply your old pump with battery voltage. If the car runs with the battery voltage, most likely the fuel pump relay is bad. You can also grab the relay from the yard. It's up in the drivers side kick panel or dash lower panel. Pumps are pretty easy to change, just stick with Subaru. Use PB Blaster on the fuel pump access panel nuts and WD-40 on the fuel lines to help slide them off.

Have them in CO. Rust sucks.

Pick up a nice Legacy Outback 97-99 with the 2.5 DOHC engine in it and then swap in a 95 2.2. Best Deal around. Get a nice rust free on from CO or other rust free states. You will be in Subaru Heaven. Larry

Well, since they ran the trans out of fluid, and I have a spare good trans. It will be replaced. I just have to verify the FDR is the same. If not I have the matching rear diff. The spare trans came out of a 2002 Legacy Sedan. Once I'm back from Seward, AK fishing. I'll get to it. Thanks, Larry

It doesn't look like impact damage. It's a hairline crack, no visible damage. Thanks.

Love the 95 2.2 swaps into a 98 Forester or 96-99 Legacy Outback. I have had a 98 OBS Manual Trans it had 380K on it when I sold it and it's still going strong. I"m now in a 2000 OBS Auto. It has 240K on it. You can't go wrong with this set up and normal maintenance. Under $2000 and you have a great car that will last years! Here's a couple: https://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/6161214892.html https://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/6160168054.html

I helped a friend pickup a 2004 Legacy Outback Wagon. PO said the trans was bad. No fluid in the Trans. We go it back to work, cleaned the Trans and added fluid. Sure enough, fluid is running out the trans. It's coming from the front of the filter housing. We shut it off and back off the filter. You can see a hairline crack about the 7 o clock position on the filter housing on the trans. It's about a 3/8" thick casting that the filter screws up to. Very strange. I don't know why that thick casting, part of the transmission case would ever fail. Anyone ever seen this? Thanks, Larry

You can search this form as well. Lots of info here. What's the mileage? I usually do not do the water pump as the Subaru pumps are very good. I'll change the Cam and Crank Seals, Reseal the oil pump and lock tight the cover plate screws, new Gates T-Belt and all the idler pulleys. Gates Kit is good. If it's leaking oil from the rear breather plate, it's a good time to pull the engine and take care of everything while the engine is out.

Good rust free Subaru system from CO. What do you need?

Subaru or NGK wires and plugs. Stock Coil.

Front Differential Ratio, would be my guess.

Depends on the price. If you can get it at the right price and put in a good used engine then, go for it. www.car-part.com will give you a good idea on a used engine. Explain to the fellow that his engine is not going to last long as the lower end bearings are shot. $1000, may be $1500 if its in good condition other than the engine.

Glad you enjoyed the Front Range a bit. Next time you are in town, shoot me a PM.

Put it on a Dolly then Jack the one rear tire off the ground and drop the 4 bolts connecting the drive shaft to the rear diff. I've done it many times, works great.

I've used Gray RTV on all of them and it's worked well on many engine and transmissions. Clean the surfaces well and then I let it cure 24 hours before I put fluid in an start it up. Most Subaru Valve Covers have there own seal and it goes on dry.

Yes, you did not put the year and model in your post but the relays for the fan are normally under the hood in the fuse box on the drivers side. You can also hook up the green connectors under the dash to put it in the Check mode and the fans will cycle on and off.