lmdew

I've got 3 or 4 Subaru nice Colorado Cats. $40 + shipping

There is debate on when the 2.2 started to be interference engines. You should be OK. Get a new kit, put it on and fire it up. When I do timing belts, I also do: - Reseal of the Oil pump and locktite the oil pump rear plate screws - New Cam and Crank Seals - New pullys - Check the Water pump, if questionable change it

The Starter contacts wear. You can replace just the copper contacts if you want. Or hit the local You Pull and Pay and grab a Subaru starter.

I ordered the A/B. We'll see how they are.

Hit you pull and pay. Pull the complete intake.

I've had off and on fuel smell from the engine for a few months. I've checked all the fuel hoses. The 2" on Left side was leaking a bit so I replace it. I also change out the Left side fuel injectors while I had the rail off with some used ones I had. That helped some but I still get fuel smell. I have also changed out the fuel filler pipe which was rusted. I'm thinking new injector o-rings. I looked at the local Subaru Deal and the 8 o-rings are over $90. Crazy. I checked Rock Auto and found these: Anyone have experience with them? BECK/ARNLEY 1580893 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Info Kit $2.81 Add to Cart GB REMANUFACTURING 8037 Fuel Injector Seal Kit; Services one injector, includes top & bottom seals. Info $4.50

I've done a few Auto Trans removals and Installs. The Negative Ground bracket makes a great plate to keep the Trans TC fully seated. During removal: - Remove the Negative Ground Lead - When you have the trans moved back a 1/2" or so take the ground bracket and bolt it to the passenger side upper Trans/Engine Mount. You can use the bolt that was there and one of the nuts from the lower studs - The Ground Bracket 2" long or so will hold the TC in the trans Install in reverse order

Subaru or NGK Wires and NGK copper core plug highly recommended.

If you need some Crank Sensors, I can ship 2 used one from CO. $10 shipped. Larry

Fuel pumps can fail to produce proper fuel pressure. Pull the air box off the throttle body. Pour a cap full of gas into the intake. Put the air box back on and see if it starts. If it starts and runs for a bit your fuel pump is most likely going out. I just had this happen on a friends 98 Outback with a 2.2 installed. I put a Subaru pump in the tank for her. It was a used pump I had in the garage. It worked fine for a few months and then had the same symptoms as your's. I pulled the pump and put a second Subaru used pump in that I had. The car is running fine. I tested the first pump outside the tank. It did not sound good! Pump ran for a bit and then slowed down and stopped. I'm sure if I had an Amp gauge on it I would have seen the current draw go way up. Get a used Subaru Pump from the yard. They are much better than the Auto Parts Store pumps. Since you are in the rust belt, soak the 8mm nuts/studs with PB Blaster before you try to remove the old pump. A little WD-40 on the hoses makes them much easier to get on and off the pump.

Have you cleaned the IAC? A good start is some Seafoam down the 1" hose going to the IAC. Let it sit 20 minutes or so and then start it up. Expect lots of white smoke.

Most likely the neutral switch on the transmission is bad. You can ohm them out up on top the trans. One small plug is for reverse the other is for neutral. Open/closed switches as you shift. If the ECU does not know the trans is in N the Revs will be high.

Do it yourself so you know it's right or find a good independent shop and go there for everything. 100+ to what idosubaru said!

Nice glad it all worked out. Thanks for the update.

Look at your rear Trans Mount and engine mounts.

Shifting has continued to improve. Great simple upgrade to your Auto Trans.

Put a Subaru Thermostat in it. While you have the coolant drained you could put a garden hose in the upper radiator hose and check the flow out of the radiator lower hose to make sure the radiator is not plugged.

I've always pulled the radiator trans cooler return line and put it into a gallon jug. Fill the trans Start the Car, let it pump a 1/2 gallon out Stop the car, refill the trans and empty the jug Repeat until clean fluid is coming out. Pretty simple and works well. Yes, check the line and make sure it's clamped on well. Check the trans fluid level, COLD then HOT after a good drive.

My 2000 OBS Auto Trans with 180K on it always downshifted very firmly. I didn't mind but the better half didn't like it. Well, with Amsoil and a Wix filter installed it shifts almost without notice. Very nice.

https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/#inbox/160cd614831011bc?projector=1 Pretty cool.

Yes way to early for the clutch or trans to be needed unless the PO did not know how to drive a 5sp.

OK, just saw it completely removed or gone in your video. If the boot was installed, I don't know how the fork wold come up against the trans housing at the boot keeps it pretty well centered.

Make sure you install the dust boot. It will prevent the fork from hitting the trans housing!

Since you are in so far, I'd replace the fork and get a new dust boot for the trans. When you put the new fork in put a dab of grease on the pivot point. With the sleeve and new throughout bearing you should be good to go. Have you resealed the air oil breather plate on the back of the block already? If not I'd do that as well.

If you end up needing good used hubs, - RUST FREE Colorado hubs let me know. $20 each + shipping. They may need the ball joint installed, but the pinch bolts are good.