lmdew

Learn something new each day!

Check and see if the rear drive shaft is spinning when the front wheels are but the rears are not. I've seen where one of the rear axles had popped out about a 1/2" and the rear drive shaft power was not going anywhere. Installed the rear half shaft into the rear differential properly and problem solved. Pretty quick check at the rear diff, just make sure both half shafts are fully inserted.

You might pull the timing belt and allow the valves to close by turning the cam. The piston/rod should move out of the way. Have you tried counter clockwise?

Yes they will do that. Just make sure you get the bolt started by hand so it's not cross threaded and the sensor points back into the lower section of the block. It retards your timing so low power and poor gas mileage.

1/2" breaker bar, try rotating it in both directions. If that does not work, pull the oil pan and push the broken rod out of the way.

With the hubs you can not verify the bearing is good or not until it's installed and you take it for a drive. Really bad ones are easy to spot, but other than that it's a roll of the dice.

What side do you need? I may have one. If you get one from Car-part.com go for a rust free state.

Yes and I'm sure there are plenty of them in the self serve yards in Denver. Pull the door triangle trim - forward on the door. It pops off, gently pry it off close to the pins. A painters 3 in 1 tool works great. Remove the Door panel Remove the electrical connector Remove the 3 screws holding the mirror.

W What's wrong? Lots of good Subaru help in OR.

Is the starter clicking? Do the headlights work when the starter does Not? Along with what the others have said the starter main contacts are prone to wear. When the main contacts within the starter are not good, no power is getting to the starter motor. When it is NOT working, Read voltage under load - key in the start position at: Battery + to ground Starter + to ground Starter Motor + to ground Make sure all the grounds are clean and tight. One fellow had a pitted ground at the rear engine negative ground wire and his car would not charge. Fixed the ground and it was good as new. He had put in 3 alternators.

www.car-part.com I've had engine shipped for $200 or so half way across the US.

Thanks

We live in CO so it more of a leak I would think. Beside replacing the assembly, anyone have luck with a good fix?

Yep, HG can do that. What's the Temp gauge doing? You can also check for Exhaust Gases in the coolant with a test Kit. Many time the HG will not leak until the engine is up to temp and under load.

Have 4 spare driver side A-arms. Shipped from CO.

PM you

Yep, I missed he was on High Speed. I have some spare fans. $20 shipped

The resistor pack is about an 1" square and about 2" long. There is a electrical connector and 2 screws that you will see on the air ducting under the glove box. Remove the connector and the screws pull it out. Put the new one in. The link shows a nice picture on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Wells-JA1230-Blower-Motor-Resistor/dp/B000EQO07O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1532083883&sr=8-3&keywords=Subaru+Impreza+fan+resistor

There is a resistor pack in the air box ducting below the passenger glove box. It's most likely going open, no voltage to the fan. Then the circuit closes providing power again. Easy change 2 screws and a plug.

You have to get all of the old stuff out. I use my 5 & 1 Paint tool and then a rasp to clean out the old stuff. It's a bit of a pain on your back but that's what it takes. The shoulder bolt will pull tight against the front flange. Spring is on the back side of the rear flange.

Yep, find a good Independent Subaru shop (like GD's) and establish a relationship with them. You and your Subaru will be happy.

Normal to have a little valve ticking as the lifters pump back up if it has the hyd lifters. It can last a week or two. I love the 2.2 engines so easy to work on and very few issues if taken care of.

I know a fellow on near Honolulu that has a great 2.2 for you to do the Swap with. Much less than doing all of the engine work to fix the HG on the DOHC engine.

I've been very happy with Amsoil.

Yes, sounds like someone drove the pin in when the half shaft was 180 out. The other option is to pop out the half shaft with the stub axle attached. It's held in with a circle clip. Remove the strut to knucle bolts and lower ball joint then use the weight of the hub as a slide hammer and the stub axle should come out.