lmdew

Check out Load Pro. It lets you quickly check for voltage drops at the connector. I've had a few relays go bad. Could swap it out as you said.

You have to drill and put in the rivnut for the bolt.

Left Cam and Crank Sprockets are a matched set. Small trigger teeth on the Crank had more triggers on the cam.

Move or Send your Subaru's to me in Colorado.

Yep 1+

Yep, somethings are just not worth doing in the rust belt.

Sorry no tanks anymore.

Would have sent you a nice rust free, CO Tank. It's a world of difference working on CO cars compared to WI. I just pulled my Brother's 97 Legacy 2.2 last week in Sullivan WI. The rest of the car is going to the yard, but we saved the engine. Later, Larry

Just picked up a nice 95 Legacy wagon for the Admin at our Church for $300. It was up in Denver at a shop. A customer had a slight front end accident. Radiator was up against the engine. After she got an estimate for the repair, she signed over the title to pay for the towing. About an hours work, I had the bumper, headlights off and the radiator support pulled out. Got the radiator and AC condenser straighten out and the hood latched. Drove it 80 miles back to COS. Junk yard today. Clean body and interior 231K - engine runs great, smooth shifting auto trans I'll go through it front to back to make sure it's good to go. Always a good day, when it's a Subaru day.

You can easily push the piston back in before you remove the caliper by putting a large straight slot screwdriver into the open window on the top middle of the caliper and using it as a lever against the rotor. Pull the handle out and it will push the caliper piston back into the caliper. Make sure you apply the brakes slowly and only partial stroke to get the piston back out before you drive off.

I have lots of used belts and pulleys that are good. $15+ shipping. I've never seen a belt break, even really old dry cracked ones. It's usually the tooth idler that goes.

It's a out of the ordinary Subaru and not the Plug and Play Lego that other Subaru's are so parts will be limited. Just something to keep in mind.

Shawn is good at Retroroo but he's north of Denver. I do all my own work but when people ask, I send them to Cascade Subaru Specialists. He's a small shop on the way up Pike Peaks Highway, turn off to Cascade, CO he's off on the right. 4615 Fountain Ave, Cascade, CO 719-684-9060.

I'll get you pictures this morning. Larry

I have a good set, that I was going to send to the recycle center. I just pulled them out of the attic the other day. Good basket and clutches. Your's for the shipping and $10 for my time boxing them. PM me with your email and I can send you some pictures.

I have some spare fans if you need one. I'm in CO 80919

Reseal the breather plate on the back of the block. You should have the aluminum one already.

www.car-part.com Used. If you have a You Pull and Pay do it yourself.

Get a used lower mileage 2.2, put all your new timing components on it and for less than $400 you'll be up and going.

Check out LoadPro and load the circuit when checking voltage. You may be reading 13vdc - Battery voltage with no load but if you have poor contacts or green stuff in the wiring it will not carry the load.

Amsoil made a significant improvement in my 2000 Impreza Trans with high mileage. Great ATF.

The filters seals up the air box pretty good. I have replaced the newer style double airbox with the older 90-95 intake tube. It works well on the 2.2 swaps.

I've had several Impreza with the clock up in the instrument cluster. When the clock goes out is there a repair. I've searched but did not find a repair on the USMB or Web. Lot's of info on the Forester and center in dash clocks. Thanks, Larry

I"d check for voltage with a miltimeter at the Fusebox in the engine compartment, under the drivers side dash and at the starter. If you have battery voltage at all those locations, with the meter on the starter have someone turn the key to start, does the voltage drop?

Do you have an aftermarket Security or remote start unit on it? Have you checked for voltage at the fuse boxes? What caused the battery and cable change to start with?