lmdew

Sell it as is! I"ve fixed a few. Options: 1) Hit a yard that will let you do the work, cut out a good fender about 4" bigger than the rust you are trying to fix. It's not worth welding in unless you are or have access to a great welder. Grind down to clean metal. Buy some metal epoxy and use sheet metal screws to bond the new metal on top of the hole. Once cured you can grind off the head of the screws and bondo the seam. 2) Cut out the rust. Put a temp tape or cardboard patch in place. Get a bunch of fiberglass and from the inside of the car build up the hole with fiberglass. It's a mess and a long job to get in there. I've done it but would not do it again. 3) Cut out the rust and get some Aviation Speed Tape. This tape is intended to stay in place. Build up a few layers of tape over the hole. Extend the tape 3 or 4" past the hole. It will keep the water out.

1+ on el_freddo's response. Front bucket seats will bolt in. You may have to switch the seat belt latch. Radio should swap over. The rest of the dash stuff NO. Front brakes, easy swap. Rear Brakes Drum to rotor can be done but it's some work.

Rust free CO 99 Outback with a 2.2 engine swap. Sweet!

Depends on the cause. It should be a 2.2 fewer HG issues. Check the fluid in the radiator Check to see if the Fans come on with the AC If all is OK you should be able to get 15 miles out of it.

Yes they go into the fuse box in the engine bay. Hit the yard and pull a good set. Something caused the overheat. Big Amp?

To new for me, but you should be able to look at your new one.

Not getting to the yards to often, but I'll keep an eye open. The Kitchen remodel and new job have been keeping me busy. Later, Larry

Hit the self serve yards and pull a set of KYB struts, complete they are about $35 each.

If the motor is turning, it's the window regulator that's damaged. The motor gear only contacts the regulator gear about an 1/4" . Hold the window up and remove the 3 motor bolts. You can remove the motor and inspect the gears on the motor and regulator. With the motor out, carefully lower and raise the window to make sure its moving freely and smoothly. You should find the problem. Hit the junk yard.

I heard today Nick passed in peace and quickly the first week of July. You could not find a nicer fellow. Always happy to help and a true friend. Nick you will be missed but not forgotten.

Did the fans get plugged back in? Do the fans come on when you turn on the AC?

You have to pull the spring on the cable back so you can remove it from the bracket. If you want to pull the cable out of the backing plate there is a clip that needs to be removed. It's right where the cable enters the backing plate.

Yes they will bolt right up. No problems.

I'd find the reason for the wobble. Fix it. It should sit flat. You can straighten it as needed. Any flat surface will work.

Check out Load Pro on You Tube. Great tool!

Take a look at the plugs. Stick you finger into the oil pan to check whats left of the oil. Look at the coolant. Those will give you a pretty good idea of the condition.

Sounds right to me. If it's in good shape, snag it.

www.car-part.com is a good source.

2.2 swap! On the 2.2 if it's a good engine I've never done the HG. Just TB and seals, drop it in.

Good ones always go fast.

Yep all except for the 10mm socket that dropped under the flex plate between the engine and the flex plate. Of course we found out about it once the engine was in and we were bolting up the TC. We could feel is and move it with a coat hanger, but had to pull it half way to get it out. Pulled the engine FWD enough to put a large magnet on the flex plate which grabbed the socket so we could rotate it up from the bottom. A second magnet pulled it out of the hole. To many cooks in the kitchen and to many tools out and about. Never happens when I do the job myself. Help is nice, most of the time.

My son has one. I'll ask him for the VIN.

Engine dropped in today. Runs great, with CEL. I have 2.2 intakes with an EGR in CO. I've pulled air from the IAC hose before. A quick trip to ACE, PVC Tee fitting and a fitting to reduce to the EGR line dia. Cut the EGR pipe, use an extra Brake Booster line to run it to the IAC hose. Works great. Down the road. Time to get back to CO and do house work. Thanks Larry

Doing the swap for a friend in Wisconsin. 2.5 DOHC to with EGR, 2.2 swap not EGR 99 Outback Sedan. I know the Check Engine Light will be on. The questions is will there be any negative impacts on the engine? Thanks, Larry

I'm sure I missed something but I put this together for a friend and thought it may help someone on the USMB as well. Subaru 2.5 to 2.2 Engine Swap 96 – 99 Outback 1. Spend some time steam cleaning the old engine and engine bay. It’s time well spent. 2. Block the Exhaust and other ports on the replacement engine and steam clean it well. 3. If you want to relieve the fuel pressure, pull the pump connector under the rear seat or in the cargo compartment. 4. 22 mm socket and 3’ breaker bar can be put on the crank sprocket and the breaker bar resting on the frame rail just in front of the battery. 5. Pull the coil connector to make sure the car does not start. 6. Turn the car over, a quick hit of the key to engage the starter is plenty to break the bolt loose. 7. Disconnect and remove the battery. 8. I put cardboard in the trunk/cargo to store all of the parts. A coffee can is good for nuts and bolts. 9. Remove the MAF, Air Filter and airbox going to the intake. 10. Remove the 3 fuel lines from the intake. Some WD-40 or other lube and a pliers to push the hose off will save the hose. Fuel will spray out if you have not released the fuel pressure. 11. Remove the ALT/Power Steering Belt and AC Belt 12. Remove the Power Steering pump bolts and bolts holding the line to the intake. Move the pump over to the air filter box. 13. Jack the Car and drain the coolant by removing the hose from the thermostat housing. 14. Remove the thermostat housing and thermostat 15. Unplug the radiator fans 16. Remove the upper radiator hose 17. Remove and plug the transmission coolant lines from the radiator if it’s an auto transmission. 18. Remove the 2 upper radiator support bolts and bracket/s. 19. Remove the Radiator and fans. 20. Remove the coolant lines from the rear of the intake or at the fire wall. 21. Remove the Starter Battery cable and small electrical connector at the rear of the starter. 22. Remove the lower starter mounting nut. 17mm 23. Remove the upper starter bolt and remove the starter. 24. Remove the EGR Valve 25. Remove the EGR hard line from the intake 26. Remove the 8 Intake 12mm bolts 27. Disconnect the coolant lines from the throttle body 28. Remove the throttle cables 29. Remove the hose from the IAC 30. Disconnect the coolant temp sensor, cam sensor, crank sensor and oil pressure connectors. 31. Remove the intake. 32. Remove the 4 12mm bolts connecting the flex plate to the transmission torque converter. Make sure you use a 6-point socket! 33. Remove the engine to transmission mount bolts and nuts – 14mm. 6-point socket and wrenches are best. 34. Disconnect the 2 O2 Sensor Connectors so the wiring is free. 35. Remove the Exhaust Y-Pipe and CAT. I usually take it off in one piece disconnecting it from the flex joint. 36. Remove the 2 14mm nuts on the engine mounts, lower ones on the bottom of the frame. 37. Double check to make sure everything is disconnected! 38. Raise the Engine/Trans, until the mount studs clear the frame. 39. Block the transmission up with sections of 2x4 wood blocks. That will hold it up to ease installation of the new engine. 40. Double check to make sure all Eng./Trans mount bolts and nuts are removed. 41. Put a large screwdriver or pry bar into one of the slots to push the torque converter back into the transmission. It should move about an 1/8” back. It’s critical to keep the TC in the transmission! 42. Split the Eng./Trans flange! Many times is it necessary to drive old screwdriver in at the split line. Many times the alignment pins are corroded in! Take your time and don’t damage things! 43. Once the engine comes forward, push the T/C aft. When you have a 2” GAP the TC should be clear of the flexplate. I take a small flat bar and bolt it to the bellhousing to hold the TC in the trans! 44. Pull the engine FWD until it’s free of the lower studs. Carefully remove from the engine bay. 45. Clean the engine bay as necessary. Prep the 2.2 engine and then install in reverse order. Things I usually do to the replacement engine: 1. Timing Belt, pulley, Cam and crank seals, oil pump rear cover screw check/Loctite and new seal. 2. Valve Cover Gaskets 3. Plugs and Plug wires 4. Clean the IAC 5. Seal the Rear Breather plate 6. Any other maintenance that is needed.