lmdew

The tank studs will break off if you use to much force! Grind a slot in the nut if needed to get it off. If the fuel pump bolts are rusted, changing the tank will not be fun.

Have several Subaru Cats up in the Garage, from cars that were scrapped. If you pick it up in Colorado Springs $25

Also check the starter mount studs. I forget what combination but some require you to put a helicoil in the trans as the block is not threaded on the lower hole. Not a big deal, just much easier to do with the engine out.

Yes as long as the EGR configuration matches. I've done a bunch. Love the 95 2.2 into the 96-99 Outbacks.

Might have had it flooded.

Possible I've seen it happen. You can pull the side covers to check the marks and the crank senor to see the crank gear marked tooth. I'd clear the codes and see what comes back.

There is a connector right at the top of the hatch to the hose that runs to the spray nozzle. I'd start up there. It's the flex boot on the drivers side. Just reaching down in the jack compartment with you hand you should be able to find the washer hose. It goes from clear plastic to black rubber there. If it's off the sprayer you will have to pull the hatch inside panel.

No but I may have a good used starter for you. I'll be in PDX Thursday. Auto or Manual Trans? Could meet you at the Laurelwood Public House on Sandy Blvd.

The boot comes off easily it's just on there like a rubber grommet. I little lip of the boot is on both sides of the sheet metal of the car body. Just push it in a little and pull. I used hose off the junk yard car. I only found about 2" hardened trimming it back and it seemed like new. If you use the old hose to pull it through you will not have to remove any interior plastic trim. Sweet.

I replaced my 2000 rear hatch with a 97 hatch this last weekend. Both washer tubes were cracked just below the flex connector between the body and the hatch. Easy fix. Get new hose or go to the yard and pull one. Cut an extra foot off the lower end, which you can reach inside the Jack access panel in the rear. It goes to clear plastic hosing there. Take your new longer tube and attach it to the old cracked tube and pull it down through the body. Connect it in the jack access panel. Put the flex boot back in place. Done

It's a little spanner at the top but a pliers will work. Inside they are 10mm bolts.

Year and model would help.

Installed a 97 Hatch on my 2000 today. Worked great, all the electrical plugs joined right up. I found the rear wiper hose cracked on my 2000 and the 97 about 2" from the body to hatch connection. Easy fix with the extra tube. I do have a door Light. I'll have to look to see if the wiring changed. Have a good one! Subaru, plug and play, for the most part. Sweet!

If you can use the engine and scrap the rest that is the best bet. Of course as soon as you scrap it you will find something you could have used. Parts for the 95-99 Subaru cars are not worth much anymore. With shipping it's just not worth it.

So it goes sometimes. You caught it! Sweet.

Vise Grips and a BFH to break it loose. I have spares if you need one. Just pay shipping from CO 80919

Go to your local you pull and pay and grab a newer set of KYB's off a Forester, complete struts and springs for about 45 each. I watch for them all the time when I'm going through the yards and pull them when I see a good set, even if I don't need them right away.

Yep, there are minor differences but nothing you can't adjust for.

Do you feel it in the driver's seat bottom when you first brake? If so it's the rear brake rotors. I've had a couple Subaru's do this. Hard to track down unless you know about it. s do this.

I always check the car for Oil service sticker or paperwork. I've powered them up with a 9v battery but it been so long ago I couldn't tell you what connector pins you need to go to. Do you have the same car? Could swap the dash into your car. Other than that you will need the factory wiring manual to figure out + and - circuit.

To late now, but for future installs you can buy an adapter harness so the stock plug remains for others down the road. Load (Radio) Power -12 VDC constant-memory functions, switched to power the unit and ground. 3 elements necessary in any circuit. I'm sure you know that already but added it for others.

Yes, it runs up the Drivers side of the rear body side of the hatch, then towards the flex hose you see. Best thing you can do is get it into a warm space before you pull the plastic. If the interior is up above 70F and you give the interior plastic time to warm up it will be less likely to break off the clip tabs. If you have access to a self serve parts yard go pull the panels there first so you know how it all comes apart. Then there is the question is it worth it? You could unplug the rear washer pump connector and disable it and never worry about the leak.

Great, hope it last through the WI Winter at least.

Have you looked at the shift input shaft while someone is shifting in the car? Might have disconnected or is stuck against something since you were just in there.

1" black hose going to the IAC is most likely disconnected from the MAF.