lmdew

Old Alt not putting out even 11.5 volts. Swapped in a use Alt. 13.5 to 14.1 when the RPM is up, but 11.9 at idle. Battery and Brake light still on. It was an ALT I had sitting as a spare I have another. After Christmas, I'll swap it in. Happy Holidays to all, Larry

Thanks

Friend sent me a text. Her 98 Forester, Auto had all of these come on at the same time. It's still running: CEL ABS Battery Light Brake Light Radio and Air Stopped. I'll head over and check the Alt Monday. I think I've seen these symptoms before.

All of them were manual trans, for me anyway.

Most likely just went down the spark plug wire and into the plug hole.

It had it on a couple of different Subarus. Unless you know you will most likely not find it.

I've had a few rear axles pop a 1/4" out of the rear diff. Feels like the clutch is slipping. With no movement in 1st with the clutch out and brake on, I'd think it would have to be the front CV.

When you put the break on and let the clutch out in 1st, have you looked at the half shaft inner joints? If one if failed it would just be spinning away.

How bad is yours? Does it just need new boots or it is completely shot? Boots are pretty easy. But otherwise Yes good Used Subaru half shaft.

There is a reason for both lights at the same time. Owners manual would be the best source. From the Web: Q. My check engine light came on and or my Cruise control light is flashing, is My Subaru ok to drive? A. The check engine light can come on for one of many reasons, as such there is really no way to know if its for a loose gas cap or something much more serious without at a minimum a code scan. Starting in 2005 Subaru commanded the Cruise light to flash as well as disabling the cruise control to get your attention. As long as the light is on steady and there is no apparent change in the way your Subaru is performing its most likely ok to drive. Get the ECU codes!

How much air is in the system.

car-parts.com When the weather gets better I could grab one from CO. Larry

Easy to drain the pan. No need to remove it. Then fill the trans. Remove the upper trans line from the radiator. Put a plastic hose about 2' long onto the radiator fitting. Put the hose in a gallon jug. Start the car, the old fluid will pump out. When you have about 3/4 of a gallon turn off the car. Empty the jug and fill the tans with new fluid. Repeat until the fluid is clean. Put the hose back on and fill the trans to the proper level.

Have you changed the trans fluid? Drain and fill 3 times with short drives in between or I pull the radiator trans coolant line and let the old fluid pump out. Many post on changing the fluid. Long post on fixing Delayed trans shifts. The TransX additive has been used by many. When my 2002 Impreza Outback trans was acting up, a change to Amsoil trans fluid helped significantly. Good visual inspection of the half shafts and drive shaft u joints. Drive in tight circles on dry pavement, is the dragging noticed?

A fellow in Nashville, TN had the same problem. I was going there for work. I took a SET Crank and Cam pulleys that he needed. Swapped them both over. Set the timing and had it going in under an hour. Fixed the valve cover gasket as well. The shop had pinched it and cut it. Leaked like crazy. Always happy to help a Subaru Owner out.

Sounds like normal operation to me.

If the starter is just ticking, not turning the engine over it has nothing to do with the coil. Make sure you check the grounds! Load Pro is a great tool. Check it out on you tube. I had one fellow with a 96 legacy, would not charge. After several used Alt, I finally got him to bring it over. The main ground wire bolt going to the engine bracket was not tight and was burnt an pitted. Replace the cable and bracket and he Loved his Subaru again.

Often I'll find KYB struts in the self server yards. Pull them yourself for$40 each and they are ready to install.

I've been using the Motive Products bleeder for years. It works great. Fill the bleeder with fluid. Hook it to your master cylinder and pump it up to about 8 psi. Hook a catch bottle to the bleeder and open the bleeder. Keep the bottle high. Watch for clean bubble free fluid coming out of the caliper. Close the bleeder. Move on to the next wheel.

PM if I can throw it in the mail to you for a fix. Thanks, Larry

Yes, 1st thing. I found this on the web: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9o8kWUYew4 Sure enough the unlock switch was completely off the circuit board. Fix or replace. I'll try to fix it first.

Found the fob lock button works, but the unlock button doesn't. Repair or replace the fob. If I can fix it I will.

Load Pro is a great tool to ensure the voltage in the circuit is correct. If the circuit is not loaded the meter will lie to you. Check out Load Pro on You Tube.

No one does a Kit that I know of. Have you changed the fluid? If you put the FWD fuse in do you get the light? You might run it in FWD for a bit and try it with the fuse and without numerous times to cycle the C-Duty.