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lmdew

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Everything posted by lmdew

  1. lmdew
    OK. Can always drop the 4 bolts out of the rear diff to driveshaft connection.
  2. lmdew
    Search Subaru Transmission Codes you'll fine a list. USMB or the web.
  3. lmdew
    Junk yard hints. Look for cars that have been hit hard - in areas you don't care about. At least you know it was on the road. Look at the overall condition of the car, if it's in good condition you know the owner cared about it. Clean fluids are a +
  4. lmdew
    To make the lower ball joint pop out of the lower A-arm I loosen the nut, jack the a-arm a little on the ball joint stud and then place a 3 lb BFH on the back of the a-arm and hit the front with another BFH. The ball joint will release. Remove the jack, remove the ball joint nut and pull it out.
  5. lmdew
    Heard nothing but good things about Superrupair, but I don't do Turbos!
  6. lmdew
    GD's in Portland, OR. Almost as rust free as CO.
  7. lmdew
    Yep no easy way. Have to remove the knuckle from the strut and bottom A - arm to get enough room to prevent seal damage.
  8. lmdew
  9. lmdew
    Rear diff is the way to go for both wheels. I've been doing it for years. No problem
  10. lmdew
    Search Torque Bind on the USMB. Lots of good info and pics. Tires all the same size and pressure? Changed the trans fluid 3x or flushed by pulling the trans cooler line off the radiator? Read the code for the TCU. Instructions on the USMB
  11. lmdew
    RA does not ship to CO. Something about taxes. Crazy!
  12. lmdew
    Which CV Joint? Best just to fix it. Rear, you may be able to remove the rear section of the drive shaft. More work then changing the half shaft. Front, no option but to fix it.
  13. lmdew
    Is your AT Temp light flashing 16 times when you start the car? If the FWD light is not coming on when you put the fuse in the holder and you have torque bind. the C Duty Solenoid is most likely the problem. Lots of info on the USMB. Search Torque bind.
  14. lmdew
    sorry for the extra pic.
  15. lmdew
    So you are most likely seeing a coolant leak. To replace this, the Intake has to come off. I'd pull the hose, check the pipe, hose and clamp. You may be able to clean up the pipe and make sure the hose and clamp are good. Replace as necessary to fix the leak. The small hose going to the throttle body also sometimes leaks and will pool on top of the engine.
  16. lmdew
    Most likely you bent the brake backing plate and it's rubbing the rotor. Jack the car, put a jack stand under it and then with the wheel still on rotate it. Look and listen for the rub.
  17. lmdew
    Did the front O2 Sensor take care of your P2097? Have it on the wife's 2006 Forester. Thanks, Larry
  18. lmdew
    Nice Pics. Great to add to the FAQ.
  19. lmdew
    https://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/d/colorado-springs-1981-volkswagen/7118178070.html
  20. lmdew
    That's in the ball park. The new owner will be looking at 1200 - 3000 to get it back on the road.
  21. lmdew
    Did you get the coolant temp sensor plugged in? Both of them. One is for the dash, the other for the ECU.
  22. lmdew
    Sweet deal for someone.
  23. lmdew
    Lots of good info in this post as well.
  24. lmdew
    The big rubber tube that connects the filler tube to the tank is about a 1/4" thick hose. Not that it couldn't fail but it's not likely. I"d gas it up to just under full. Then take a 5 gallon gas tank and with the car jacked up, fill the tank. It will give you a good view of tank and filler tube. Easy enough.
  25. lmdew
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