lmdew

Yep, I called today. Another Hour on wait. Sent a reply email, asking for response by Tue. or I'm reporting it to Credit Card. I try to work with the stores first.

Head to the Junk yard - selfserve and poke around.

Still waiting for PB to refund my double charge on my credit card. Hope others have better experiences with them if they try the deal.

Your pictures show you in the circuit when measuring voltage. Never a good idea to be touching the pins with skin/fingers. Check out Load Pro on youtube. Great tool, to add to your meter.

Check out LoadPro on youtube.

Fuel Pump Relay. Check all battery and ground connections.

As long as the Rear diff matches the Trans you are good.

Make sure you are not on Highbeam!

Pull the rear plastic inner panel off. You wll see the latch in the center. There are a couple of wires there. The wiring from the FSM is good. You might also want to talk to the fellow that did the work and see how he replaced the rear hatch.

Pepboys not on my list anymore. - They No longer carry parts in CO, nothing but a tire and MX place - Double charged my credit card for the oil - Could not complete the rebate form with the online order receipt - Spent over an hour waiting for customer service to pick up the call - BBB has numerous complaints on their Rebate program That being said, they are processing the refunds for both charges. You get what you pay for. Almost Free oil was not worth it.

Love CO, none of that red stuff out here!

www.car-part.com a good search engine.

Get a Subaru Rebuilt Alt!

1+ on GD's shop. I told Friends in Bellingham, WA well north of Seattle to head down!

Got my 2! Thanks for the link.

I'd start with the relay. Easy to swap, used ones OK. I've had the same problem more than once.

You'd spend almost as much in fluid hose to get to the passenger side a you would for an aftermmarket trans cooler.

Yes the fuel pump is only powered for a short time when you first turn the key on. Once the engine is running it's always powered. Sometime your meter may lie to you. If you have no load on the circuit you can read voltage but still not have what you need. You Tube search Load Pro. You might want to try the relay under the dash. If you can back probe the connector and leave it hooked to the pump that would also give you a better voltage reading. Check the circuit under load! When this happens you could also pour a little gas in the intake. If it fires you have confirmed it's a fuel issue. Gas water Free?

I've put clamps on the end of the hose, to stop the air from getting sucked in.

Details on your Subaru would help.

Look here: https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forum/26-subaru-stuff-listed-on-ebaycraigslist/

Under the fuel rail mount tabs going to the intake. Highlighted below.

I have a bunch of fuel injector rails - Red injecotors, late 90's. Today I pulled 8 for another USMB member. The rails and Injectors were removed from the intake. I removed the Injector cap screws. I tried to push them out. They were stuck. I took a soft wood board, put it on the Injector and clamp against the rail and pulled them together. The Injectors popped right out. The softwood protected the tip of the injector. Nice.

Auto or Manual. Auto's are very heavy, a lift is ideal.

Load Pro will let you read voltage and Load the circuit at the fuel pump connector. Load Pro: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2DwgYI9y2qc Great Tool. You'd have to be all set and have someone turn the key for you as the ECU only cycles the pump for a short time prior to start.