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lmdew

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Everything posted by lmdew

  1. Make sure you burp the system when you fill it! Subaru engines like to lock in air bubbles.
  2. Plastic tank to aluminum radiator core gaskets often leak a little. The vent plug has a rubber gasket on it, it's all that needed. Don't over tighten it!
  3. Might have a Subaru original for you, good or to have rebuilt. I'd need a picture of the top plug. I'm in Colorado Springs. USPS Flat rate $18. Larry
  4. Do it right the First time. Sometimes I want to finish the work but know a fresh look in the AM would be best!
  5. I cut a used Subaru Timing belt and wrapped it around the cam gear 1 3/4 times and took the other end to the crankshaft and looped it around so the teeth of the belt locked together with a vise grips as a clamp. I had to cut 4 teeth off the belt so it would slip between the cam gears but that was easy and no harm. Worked like a champ to break them loose and lock them to torque the bolt to 58 ft lbs.
  6. Neither of those were off. I'm going to recheck the cams on Monday. I don't know how they would have gotten out of position, but worth another look.
  7. It's the old style crank gear with only a few teeth. I've done many 2.2 so I know it's lined up correctly. Rechecked the Drivers/Left cams to make sure they were both under load when rotating clockwise (looking aft from the front of the engine). Marks lined up. Got it to fire with full throttle but it's not right. I did wash down the engine bay at the carwash to get clean off the oil mess. It ran fine back from the wash 5 miles or so. I' don't think its water in the connectors... I broke rule #1 and started another job at the same time. I replace a broken windshield wiper switch. Should not be a factor either. I did drop the lower dash panel and lower steering column cover. Shouldn't be an issue in this either. Any easy way to verify the crank and cam timing is 100% correct? I pulled #1 plug and stuck a hose down the hole to feel for compression, but with the lack of access and the timing belt still on opening the valves I'm not sure this a good check. No CEL codes and it ran fine before this, other than pissing oil out the crank seal. Thanks for the cam pics, I'll triple check on Monday.
  8. All back together. (Did I tell you I hate DOHC engines). I turned it over by hand 2 times. All the timing belt marks line up perfect. Turns over fine, but not starting. All the sensors are hooked up. Is it possible to have the cams out of position when installing the timing belt, but all the timing belt marks correct? The crank gear timing mark is correct the dash on the rear tooth. Thanks, Larry
  9. I cut a used Subaru Timing belt and wrapped it around the cam gear 1 3/4 times and took the other end to the crankshaft and looped it around so the teeth of the belt locked together with a vise grips as a clamp. I had to cut 4 teeth off the belt so it would slip between the cam gears but that was easy and no harm. Worked like a champ to break them loose and lock them to torque the bolt to 58 ft lbs. All of the old seals were junk, but came out with ease as they were a little undersized. The fellow used sealant to hold them in. Silly. I cleaned everything up and installed Subaru seals. Hope to have it back together and leak checked today. The crank shaft polished out well, I think it will be fine. Oil pump bolts and seal taken care of as well.
  10. 58 ft lbs is what I'm find is that correct for 1999 Forester DOHC Cam gear bolt torque? Thanks, Larry
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