lmdew

1+ You can also jack all 4 corners and start it up and see what's moving.

I put about 20oz in it and it's cooling well. The compressor was locked up, belt broken and idler adjuster broken. I had to grab a compressor from the yard $45. I had the other parts. New Subaru o-rings and a charge and it working well. PA car, lots of rust. I can hear the rear wheel bearing starting to to. She is an Air Force Cadet in her Senior year. I suggested a nice rust free CO Subaru before she transfers.

Thanks.

This is what I found in the FSM online. Seems a little low. The sticker is missing under the hood. Please confirm. Thanks, Larry

Use to pull them with the forklift at work. I could hold the engine an reach the controls with my raised leg to raise and lower the engine. Not ideal, but if no one was available to operate the forklift it worked. Those days are long gone, but were good ones.

The Sensor was easy, he had no problem.

It's a unit. Rust has it locked in. Soak it with PB blaster or something like it. I've had good luck putting a pipe wrench on the ball joint and spinning it inside the knuckle to break down the rust. Step is the gas tourch to heat the knuckle up.

He went to the You Pull and got the 2nd pulley sensor and installed it. So far so good. Nice!

Transmission shop pulled P2760 they said indicated 2nd pulley sensor. Of course it was driving fine while there. More research I think. Good info. I tried to upload the file but it was to large. Here's the link: https://atracom.blob.core.windows.net/webinars/import/subaru_lineartronic_cvt_introduction.pdf

Swap the bulbs side to side and see if the fault follows the bulb. You will also get a chance to inspect the bulbs and connectors.

1+ for timing!

Looks like the Damper separated and walked back into the cover. I'd pull it apart and check the components. If it's just the crank damper you can inspect the shaft and key and replace it. If the Timing belt is close to due you may as well do it and all the idler pulleys.

Thanks GD. Always lots of good information.

He has it into a good Trans Shop. GD if it's just the TC lockup solenoid can you change just it instead of the complete valve body? Thanks, Larry

Code came back. $1500 from a Trans shop! Ouch.

Auto Trans is a heavy BEAR! You know about ensuring the TC is fully seated. Good Luck, it's a job for sure.

It's tight on my Daughters 2018 Forester. I use a wrench like this.

Glad you got it. Pretty easy job.

105K initially and then I usually go every 80K after that. Cheap insurance. Make sure the pulleys are also changed. The cogged one usually goes first!

Duct tape will not last. Yes, coolant bypass hose. It pretty easy any 90 degree hose bend will work. In total it's about 4" long. Sorry I don't have the Dia. I'm in PDX so out of the garage. Pull it and take it to Subaru or an auto parts store. They will be able to match it.

Thanks. I recommended Jim at Cascade Subaru. Great one man shop in Cascade CO.

Interesting. Thanks

GD can the TC lockup solenoids be tested? Can I do it or does it need to be a good transmission shop? Thanks, Larry

Thanks. Napa brake parts. Not sure on the history. Looked fine underneath. Passenger side Brake backing plate is torn across the bottom. Still trying to figure out how something shot up in there going down the freeway. Tire and rim are fine. ABS no visible damage.

A friends Legacy sedan broke a rear brake rotor a few weeks ago. I 4" section of the rotor broke off and jammed up the drive line. He had the brakes replaced and it drove fine for a few weeks. Yesterday he got the P0700 code. He cleared it and it has not come back. I suggested a full inspection of the driveline to make sure it's OK. Brake rotor breaking is very strange. Did that cause the Transmission Control CEL?