lmdew

Amsoil. It helped my 2004 Impreza.

They don't make them like they use too!

Got your moneys worth out of that one.

Coolant Temp Sensor.

Not much help, but if you have the rear diff out, there is a code painted on the top of the housing.

The four long bolts should be welded to a plate on the top. They take a bit of messing with but should drop through the diff and plate with little problem. Of course if things are bent, that could be the issue. Here's a you tube showing how it should go. Not mine but they did a pretty good job. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQpnQ7l7XLo Hope it helps.

Keep everything loose until they are all started. I've done several, they have all gone OK.

Yes the stub axle has to be in and the nut torqued to keep the bearing together. Best of luck. Should be easy to find a rear diff. www.car-part.com is a good source.

Yes the auto carwash keeps everything clean in PNW.

I put hose clamps onto the 06 Forester inlet hose. It started leaking air after I'd replaced the radiator and just moved the hose. It's been working fine for over 2 years now.

Colorado has zero rust problems. Rusty cars don't sell well here!

The motor is low in the door under water for sure. Pull the door card and pull the motor out. Multimeters can lie to you if there is no load on the circuit. Check out LoadPro on youtube. Amazon has them. The LoadPro should be in everyone's toolbox.

I have good mid pipes if you want one. You pay shipping from 80919 Colorado.

Currently for aircraft. The USMB is great!

Most likely Head Gaskets. Look in the coolant overflow bottle, if you see black oily stuff it's the HG for sure. 2.2 swap is a good option.

Should have the dust boot to keep the rod seal area clean and long lasting.

That's the power of Knowledge Base Troubleshooting system. atp.com SpotLight for aircraft.

Many of the front control arms are the same. www.car-part.com is a great source for interchange info. A good sway bar and links.. mounting bushings will be an improvement if you have worn parts.

Depends on the quality of the job!

Thanks!

I'm sure GD would know this off the top of his head. My Brother is thinking of a newer Subaru for his better half. Any issues New after Subaru fix the Oil consumption issue and go from a Belt to timing chain? Thanks, Larry

Threads look bad. How's the outer Link?

Is the IAC hose on. About 1" dia going from the air box to the IAC. I always go with NGK Copper core plugs and NGK or Subaru wires. If this all started after the maintenance double check all connections.

The body to trailing arm bracket are longer. Spacers would not move it as much. Off camber means tire wear. If you can get it to spec. that's the best.

1+ Loosen the lock nut, turn the inner tie rod out so it comes out of the outer tie rod (thereby skipping the need to remove it). Remove boot. Use inner tie rod tool to swap tie rods. Literally don't have to remover any bolts or nuts - just the boot and tie rod itself. Count the number of turns of the tie rod and install the new one to the same depth. I center punch the nut and outer tie rod. Loosen the nut and then do as above. Once it's out, before I move the nut I take a bit of safety wire and measure from the nut to the end of the tie rod, bend it 90 degrees over the end of the tie rod. Now you have a tool to put the nut on the new tie rod where it needs to be. Once it's all back together and you have driven it a bit do a quick alignment check. Take some mason's line and tie it to the rear sway bar bolt. Wrap the line around the outside of all 4 tires about 6" off the ground - as high as possible without hitting the body. Tie the line off tight on the opposite side of the sway bar. With the toe set you should have about a 1/8" gap at the rear of the front tires. Now take it and get a 4 wheel alignment! I've gotten very close with the string.