lmdew

They are great cars. I have a 2000 OBS, auto. Manual transmissions are easy if it needs one, but with the low mileage I'd doubt it. Timing Belt and Seals if they have not been done. Change the fluids...basic maintenance and you are on the road. GD is in your city - Great Subaru Shop! http://superiorsoobie.com/

I've done it, it's a large job! Why do you want to do the change? You need at a minimum the standard car: Brake box Trans mount Trans, clutch, flywheel, starter You'll need to update the wiring to make the ECU think it's an Standard instead of an auto trans.

www.car-part.com is a great source to see what's at they yards and prices.

I have the parts, but I see you are in Tasmania Australia.

I have plenty. USMB Donation and the shipping. USPS Flat Rate small box. I think $8 now. Could send a few and other sensors if you need them.

Have to get out the electrical diagrams. Every circuit has: Load, Ground and Power. I believe your power is switched by the relays in the engine compartment fuse box. Without the car details I can't confirm.

I think I needed more coffee. Auto TC flex plates dia. It's been too long.

Best to pull it and see what's there. Subaru's are like legos plug and play. There are some differences! Fly wheel dia for one.

The Forester trailing arm body to arm mount is a little longer. If you are in the rust belt, use lots of Kroil and a breaker bar to work the 3 bolts out. Took a Milwaukee impact to a friends in WI and we broke the welds on the captive nut inside the frame. Solved that one by drilling an access hole into the frame from inside the car so we could put a socket on the nut.

I had the new CCR do two engine rebuilds for me for cars I was fixing and selling. I was happy with both and never had any questions back from the new owners.

Could be that 5 gallon bucket of Subaru nuts and bolts in the front seat. You got away before I could load it. Glad you made it.

Rear Seals are usually NOT the leak source. The seperator plate on the back of the engine needs to be resealed. If it's the plastic one, Subaru has a replacement metal plate. Early ones were aluminum. Don't touch the rear seal unless it damaged or you can confirm it's the source of the leak. Most folks have more issues after replacing the rear seal. Having the sleave kit is nice. No way to tell if you need it until the engine/trans is pulled. The belt should be fine, another 20K to 60K left on it. Did you change all of the idler pulleys on the T Belt? if not, I'd to them now while the engine is out. Valve cover gaskets. Oil Pump reseal and rear cover plate screws torqued properly.

Have a great/safe trip.

Always happy to help and visit with USMB Members. Parts are mostly 95-99 range Legacy and Impreza. Of course you know Subaru's are like Lego's many parts interchange. Thanks for stopping in!

Check to see if the large 1" dia hose going from the Air Box to the Idle Air Control Valve is connected. It usually comes off when the air filter is changed or top of the air box is removed. Use a Subaru MAF! NGK copper core plugs are best. How did the plugs look that were removed?

I have several used pumps. $20 + shipping. Flat rate Large box.

I've been very happy with the 95 2.2 swaps I've done. www.car-part.com still shows some low mile engines. 96-98 2.2 will work but require a single port y pipe. Watch for EGR configuration for plug and play the 95 2.2 with matching ERG is great.

If you are in Colorado Springs for a few day you might be able to get in to see Casey at http://resolve-therapeutics.com/. She does a great job on my back after long flights.

Recommended NGK Copper core!

Did you get the center counsel working?

Should have had another cup of coffee. Bus crossed a double, double yellow line turning into a gas station. Said he never saw me. I'm here. Any Day you can get out of bed, have a hot coffee and shower is a Great Day. If you make it to the end of the day and have an IPA it's even better!

Good PT and yoga have helped me! 2014 head on motorcycle to school bus accident, at 60 mph made me a slow moving vehicle. But hey, I have all body parts and still get around.

Hope all goes well. You can pull the lid apart and remove the struts from the piviot point. As noted, there is nothing under the counsel that would stop them from moving. Is something in the hinge?

If you get a small pin, push pin works well you can put it in the hole and move it. It's a little ball and socket.

There are shops that still surface rotors, just a little harder to find.