lmdew

Here you go. A new hood and you should be good. https://denver.craigslist.org/cto/d/arvada-1995-subaru-legacy/7469232186.html

I swapped over to rear disk brakes, drums went to the recycler on my Impreza.

Should take them to the Laurelwood Public House for a Workhorse.

Not worth shipping. I found them on the Craigslist. Yes they did want proof of owernership. I had titles from cars I had parted years ago.

Sold 3 CATs yesterday to a recycler for $125 each. They even picked them up. They wanted the Part Number off the CAT. There is a # under the heatsheild on a metal tab that comes off the seam. You have to cut the heatsheild back a bit and then wire brush or sand the tab to see the #.

Sometimes the socket connectors do not have the contact force needed for a good conection. Bend them out a bit to increase the force.

I'm sure I could find nice rust free on in CO and send it your way.

Who put the pump in the car? Did they bleed the air out of the system after the pump change? I'd get it up on jack stands or a lift. Drop the plastic lower engine cover if it's there. Start the car and turn the steering lock to lock while checking for leaks. Watch the fluid level.

Muffler shop, to cut and weld in a section. If you want to keep the joint, see my post above.

I may have the Mid and muffler for you. Shipped from 80919. I could cut off the flanges and as much pipe as you want to reduce shipping. Have a shop expand the pipes slip them on and bolt and clamp them up.

I'd at least pull the timing belt covers off. I picked up a 2001 that sounded like a rod knock. It turned out to be the timing belt cogged Idler bearings were gone! I'm still driving that $400 car.

http://opposedforces.com/parts/forester/us_s10/type_10/exhaust_system/exhaust/illustration_1/

Highlighted is the donut flex joint. Further aft are flat gaskets.

Bad idea. Way to much work. www.car-part.com

Yep thin gasket. I've been able to grind them flat. I have some good mid-pipes and mufflers. 80919 www.car-part.com is also a good source. Pick a rust free location.

Yes there is a exhaust donut gasket. GD posted a repair for the pipe flanges a few weeks ago. Not sure what the brand was. You can search the USMB. Here's a quick google search.

Boots can be changed. It's tight, but you can do it. Sometimes it helps to drop the Y-pipe a bit. I pin punch the tie rod nut and then use a pice of wire to record the lenght the nut is off the inner tie rod. It allows you to put it back to almost aligned. Unscrew the inner tierod, remove the nut and replace the boot. Put it all back together and get an alignment.

Fix things when they fail. Hope you did the cam and crank seals as well as the oil pump seal and rear plate screws when you were in there for the timing belt. If not, leave them until they start leaking. Rear Breather plate reseal, when you do the clutch and flywheel. Great car. Keep the fluids full and clean and you are good to go. NGK copper core plugs and wires or Subaru wires. Enjoy!

Find a good Subaru Mechanic! You have already changed parts that were not needed. Non-Subaru halfshafts are known to cause vibration problems.

Did you have to rewire the radio? If it's just plug and play radio swap I'd put the old one back in. I'm guessing a different ground. With a remote start, security system you are dealing with a few unknowns in there.

EGR or no EGR? If the wiring mods are on the intake side of the connector, it may be easier just to grab a 2.2 manifold and install it. www.car-part.com is a good source. If you have self-server yards near you that's even better.

It's happended to many folks. Always good to get it on the road again.

Yep, way up high. Drop the kick panel, move the seat all the way back and get under the dash.

I have good ones if you need one. Colorado Springs, CO 80919

Change the CVT fluid to Amsoil CVT fluid for the life of the trans. A good independent shop that knows Subaru. Find one and stick with them for all maintenance. You'll like it.