lmdew

Yes, should drop to the frame. Something is holding it up! Did you loosen the pitch stop bolt and the other engine mount stud and rock the engine?

When you say won't seat, how far from the frame is it? Once the stud of the mount is in the frame slot the weight of the engine should bring the base of the mount to the frame. As said, loosen the pitch stop bolt at the engine bracket. Loosen the opposite mount nut and you should be able to rock the stud into the frame. It's possible the CV joint seperated when you jacked the engine. Give them a good look and shake to check for movement of the axle shaft.

Yes blow throught it one way and it seals. The opposite way it's free flowing.

Park on the Street, if you can.

Front O2 sensor does the fuel trim. Rear checks how well the system is working and has no impact on the trim. That's my understanding anyway. If the engine was running way rich, it can cause CAT problems.

No problems. I find them cheap on the craigslist. $100 for a set of 4 rims and tires. I have plenty of chrome acorn lug nuts if you need a set.

I took a 97 OBS back to Wisconsin years ago. It just turned 300K. Rusty from being in WI for years but still ticking.

Re torque the top strut bolt going up throught the top mount. Did you do the work or a shop? If it was a shop, I'd take it back to them and see what they have to say.

Glad you are OK. Pics of the mirror and seatbelt would help. If you have a self serve junk yard near you, the parts would be cheap. Seat belt runs up the post under the plastic trim. The trim has one push pin on the rear side that needs to come out and then the plastic will pop off the post. It helps if it's warm. 10 mm bolts hold it in. The top I think is a 14mm bolt. Larry

Main Power relay up under the dash. Fuel pump relay Any related sounds missing when it dies. Do you loose all power?

The Laurelwood Public House in PDX is great! You by the Workhorse IPA and I'll do the work/subaru training, when the weather warms up.

Mileage? Maintenance history? Start with the basics: Check fluid levels, fill and or change fluids as necessary. If you don't have a Subaru maintenance book you can download the Factory Service Manual. Fill the Tank with the best gas you can get. A can of Heat will help with any water in the tank. NGK copper core plugs and NGK or Subaru plug wires. Get some miles on it and then see what else it needs: Timing Belt, seals, gaskets.... The 95 2.2 is a great engine.

Had the same on the 06 Forester after a radiator change. Clamp on the PS pump fixed the fault.

If I have not done the job before, I always like to hit the self serve junk yards and pull the part there. It's a great learning experience and you don't have to worry about breaking something you need. You've already done that with the car you parted out.

Check the radiator level when cool. See if it's full.

https://denver.craigslist.org/cto/d/englewood-2001-subaru-outback-white/7435054578.html

Electrical troubleshooting. LoadPro Guide2.pdf

I have dual port Y-Pipes as well. Hope it all works out.

I have several CATS your for the shipping. 80919

Good Luck!

Get an old GL with H/L Transfer or a Jeep!

Driveshaft u-joints, mid bearing. How were the bushing for the rear diff?

You might want to drain the gear lube, inspect it and the drain plug. Plug will have fuzz but no part #'s. Also put your finger in the trans and feel around on the bottom once drained. I'd suggest Amsoil gear lube when you fill it back up. It might give you a longer life.

Thanks, I was going to see if he wanted my rear halfshafts. I hate to send them to the metal recyclers.

I think it was MWE that was rebuilding halfshafts in Denver CO. He painted them blue. I'm not finding them with a google search. Anyone know if they are still in business? Thanks, Larry