lmdew

They are very easy to crossthread. Loosen or remove the small bracket between the lines. The B-Nut should thread on by hand a good way. If you need lines let me know, I have some. What year and model are you working on?

Hit the local junk yards. I'm sure you will find many. Pull all the parts you need. End Links Swaybar Bushings Bushing brackets. www.car-part.com is also a good source, but you need everything.

Yes most can be machined and returned flat and true. Reseal the breather plate on the back of the block.

Lots of selfserve lots in CO. Littleton is good as are the UPAP. www.car-part.com is also good.

www.car-part.com

Amsoil ships free over $100. Get 2 oil changes and filters and you are set for 2 years.

Get it evacuated. Change the compressor and Evap o-rings and then service the system. A good AC Shop will pull a vacuume and then properly service it. Worth the money. I have pulled a slight vaccume with my hand pump and then serviced the system based on the specified amount of coolant. It works.

selfserve Junk yards are always a good place to practice removals! The oring may just be hard.

A local yard may have one as well.

lmdew2@gmail.com

A friend had a like problem. I recommended a transmission shop check and they found a bad speed sensor. He went to the yard and pulled it, put it in. Problem fixed. Trans shop will have a scanner that will pull the data.

A friend had a like problem. I recommended a transmission shop check and they found a bad speed sensor. He went to the yard and pulled it, put it in. Problem fixed.

I have a few good fans. $20 shipped.

Might pull a complete valve body out of a yard and swap it in. If it does not work, return it.

Yes that will do it. There's like an 1/8" between the bottom of the pan and the pickup.

Sounds like you have a short somewhere providing complete circuit for power. Has any work been accomplished lately? Any previous damage to the car? Main relays are up under the drivers side dash. They are way up there under the kick panel. Next time it happens I'd try pulling the relays. Do you have an aftermarket security or remote start system installed?

It's a bunch of work to go from FWD to AWD. Most likely cheaper and much less time to buy an AWD. If you really want to do the upgrade, buy the complete parts car and keep it until you are done and have your's on the road.

My 2000 OBS does pretty much the same thing. It's fine unless I'm in the mountains pushing itl When the temp gauge starts to increase, if I turn off the AC it helps. If needed I turn the heat to high and open the windows. As soon as the load is removed it's fine. I've replaced the radiator with a full metal aluminum one. It helped some but did not correct he problem. I've changed the thermostat, no change (Subaru thermostats). Otherwise fine. I have not pulled the water pump as to me it's just not worth the time right now.

Yep, not much more than scrap price. Sad

From the Outback site: When looking at the pump, at the 11 o'clock position, just below the top left bolt hole, there will be a number cast into the face of the pump. That is your pump "diameter". While this is not Fuji gospel, the trend for oil pumps is as follows: Non-AVLS, Phase 2 SOHC: 7mm AVLS, Phase 2 SOHC: 9mm Non-AVCS, Phase 2 DOHC: 9mm Single AVCS, Phase 2 DOHC: 10mm Dual AVCS, Phase 2 DOHC: 11mm Typically, the more systems that require oil (AVLS, AVCS, Turbo), the "larger" the pump equipped. If you're looking to "upgrade", I would not go larger than a 9mm on a non-AVLS engine. Too much oil IS a bad thing.

How many miles on the engine? Most likely the bearing clearances are out of limits. GD I'm sure can answer your Oil Pump question. My understanding is it's the thickness of the gear in the oil pump. The thicker it is the more volume the pump is moving. I have a few pumps, but I've never identified them.

1/2" drive six point socket. 22 mm or I think 7/8" also fits. You can put the breaker bar on the drivers side frame rail just inftont of the battery and hit the starter. A VERY short crank will break the bolt loose. It's at 225 ftlbs I believe.

About 99% of the parts will bolt right in either way. You will not believe how nice it is to work on a Colorado car. I can go to the yard and pull just about anything with very little problems.

Since you just drained the coolant, you may still have an air pocket at the top of the engine.