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lmdew

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Everything posted by lmdew

  1. Many are 30 days. It workes or it fails. extended is a wast of $$
  2. They can be very tight. I've used a tubing wrench. The flat 6 sides work well. In the yards a vise grip works. Before you go to the trouble of removing it, do the troubleshooting using a hand vacuume pump to open the egr with the engine at idle.
  3. Some good info and troubleshooting. https://www.delphiautoparts.com/usa/en-US/resource-center/basics-egrs-what-they-do-how-they-work-how-troubleshoot
  4. Keep it as a rental. Weeks rental in Achorage $2600. Crazy. So much for halibut fishing this year.
  5. Make sure you start the bolts by hand. Very easy to cross thread.
  6. I have a control panel 2005 I think. Large knobs below the radio. Free you grt shipping.
  7. too new for me but sounds like a flapper door is not moving or a duct plugged or disconnected. Do you get good heat out of them?
  8. 1990 to 2005 used one in good condition. Stay away from the 2.5 DOHC. Lots of good rust free ones in CO. Lot's of used cars are way overpriced now. Have to watch and be ready to jump on good ones.
  9. ebay has some good pictures. Subaru pumps are usually smaller in Dia than aftermarket and goldish in color.
  10. Problem is most folks don't load the circuit. They unplug the connector... read voltage and buy the part thinking it's failed. $80 may be a bit but it's cheaper than a lot of parts. If it saves you one time, most likely you've paid for it.
  11. Great info. Get the schematic, find the 3 elements of a circuit - Load, Ground and Power. Then you are ready to troubleshoot the system. If you are not checking the circuit with the load hooked up, you meter can lie to you. Loadpro fixes that. Find Opens, Shorts and High resistance in minutes.
  12. I've had intermittent fuel pumps caused by the fuel pump relay. It's high up under the dash on the drivers side. Larry
  13. Just turn on the key. The pump will come on for a few seconds.
  14. In the wagon it's just behind the rear seat. In the Sedan's it's under the rear seat. You'll see an oval panel with 4 screws in it. Pull the panel and you will see another oval panel with many 8mm nuts and the fuel hoses and electrical connector. Spray the fuel hoses with WD-40 or some other lube. Carefully remove the hoses, electrical connector and then the 8mm nuts. Pull the panel and pump. Get a Subaru pump. Even a used one is better than aftermarket.
  15. Could do oil analysis and see what's in the oil. Hard to tell what's circulated in the oil.
  16. I believe the IAC are a little different from Auto to Manual Transmission. Is it a match to you swap?
  17. Just put a large straight slot screwdriver into the brake rotor and it will lock up the hub to break the nut. I usually stick them right down through the brake caliper.
  18. Pull a used Subaru Halfshaft from the yard. Clean, grease and reboot if needed. Heck, just to see if the symptoms go away, install as is. Rebuild down the road if necessary. I take my 3/4" 4' long snapon ratchet with 6 point socket to the yard. No nut has ever beaten that tool. If the outter spline does not move freely once the nut is off move on to another Subaru. Make sure when you put it in the innner rollpin is propperly aligned. If it's 180 out, you can start it but it will jam before you get it all the way in and you will be hard to get it back out!
  19. Sounds like a good Subaru and a good seller to work with. Go for it!
  20. I've been working with atp's SpotLight solution for 20+ years in commercial aviaiton. https://www.atp.com/spotlight/ When teaching SpotLight to Mechanics I tell them Troubleshooting is Troubleshooting, aircraft, car, boat, motorcycle. It has to be a process. SpotLight is a knowledge base which captures and keeps tribal knowledge forever, making it easy to find the Solution. Same thing the USMB does but larger and easier to use. USMB works for us. I've searched for solutions and I've found them. One was even submitted by Lmdew years earlier I had forgotten the details but the USMB did not. Larry

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