lmdew

Many of the front control arms are the same. www.car-part.com is a great source for interchange info. A good sway bar and links.. mounting bushings will be an improvement if you have worn parts.

Depends on the quality of the job!

Thanks!

I'm sure GD would know this off the top of his head. My Brother is thinking of a newer Subaru for his better half. Any issues New after Subaru fix the Oil consumption issue and go from a Belt to timing chain? Thanks, Larry

Threads look bad. How's the outer Link?

Is the IAC hose on. About 1" dia going from the air box to the IAC. I always go with NGK Copper core plugs and NGK or Subaru wires. If this all started after the maintenance double check all connections.

The body to trailing arm bracket are longer. Spacers would not move it as much. Off camber means tire wear. If you can get it to spec. that's the best.

1+ Loosen the lock nut, turn the inner tie rod out so it comes out of the outer tie rod (thereby skipping the need to remove it). Remove boot. Use inner tie rod tool to swap tie rods. Literally don't have to remover any bolts or nuts - just the boot and tie rod itself. Count the number of turns of the tie rod and install the new one to the same depth. I center punch the nut and outer tie rod. Loosen the nut and then do as above. Once it's out, before I move the nut I take a bit of safety wire and measure from the nut to the end of the tie rod, bend it 90 degrees over the end of the tie rod. Now you have a tool to put the nut on the new tie rod where it needs to be. Once it's all back together and you have driven it a bit do a quick alignment check. Take some mason's line and tie it to the rear sway bar bolt. Wrap the line around the outside of all 4 tires about 6" off the ground - as high as possible without hitting the body. Tie the line off tight on the opposite side of the sway bar. With the toe set you should have about a 1/8" gap at the rear of the front tires. Now take it and get a 4 wheel alignment! I've gotten very close with the string.

I have an OBS on Forester struts. I like it. A bit of rear inner tire ware. I used the trailing arm bracket from the Forester to keep the tire centered. It's about an 1" longer. I also use a smaller dia bolt on the top rear strut lower mount so I could get the camber close to what it should be.

Get a good alignment.

I think GD had said they slip a section of the correct size hose over the new PVC clamp it and tie it into the old hose.

I'd take it to a quality transmission shop and let them do the diagnostics on it. Many times they can read deeper into the trans.

Always check and clean all of the grounds. I have several sets of Red Subaru Injectors if you need them. You can listen to the injectors, put a long screwdriver to the injector an to your ear while it running. You should hear a crisp sharp ticking.

Turbo makes a lot of heat and all the hoses will be hard. I know GD has noted some turbo lube issues. Head Gaskets... I stay away from turbos. It makes a nice engine bay a hot and hard place to work IMHO.

www.car-part.com is a great resource to find parts.

www.car-part.com is a good source for used parts.

You multimeter can lie to you unless you are checking voltage under load! LoadPro is the tool you need to add to your toolbox and use on your multimeter. Get a 9v battery, read voltage at the terminals. Now wet your finger, put it on one terminal and put the meter lead on your finger and read voltage. It will be very close to the same reading but you can't power the circuit through your finger. The meter will lie to you. LoadPro solves that issue. Search LoadPro Voltage Drop test on youtube.

Most folks don't keep and eye on the temp gauge. They overheat the bottom end, which is why I'd do the 2.2 swaps.

www.car-part.com Pick up a low mileage 2.2 Do the Timing Belt and seals, reseal the rear breather cover and plug it in. I've done many of the 2.2 swaps and have been happy with them. If you can match the EGR and exhaust port config. its even easier.

Much better outcome then a trans swap and the problem would have still been there. Great news!

I have used bushing from Ace Hardware to replace the worn stock ones. Pull it off and head to the hardware store for the gear shifter. I'm pretty sure 90-94 are the same.

Any progress?

Could be. Try pulling one fuse at a time and see if it isolates the fault.

Any CEL codes?

95K Colorado Subaru $2000 bad body. https://denver.craigslist.org/cto/d/aurora-2008-suburu-ouback-body-bad/7410667635.html