lmdew
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Everything posted by lmdew
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http://opposedforces.com/parts/forester/us_s10/type_10/exhaust_system/exhaust/illustration_1/ -
Highlighted is the donut flex joint. Further aft are flat gaskets.
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Bad idea. Way to much work. www.car-part.com
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Yep thin gasket. I've been able to grind them flat. I have some good mid-pipes and mufflers. 80919 www.car-part.com is also a good source. Pick a rust free location.
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Yes there is a exhaust donut gasket. GD posted a repair for the pipe flanges a few weeks ago. Not sure what the brand was. You can search the USMB. Here's a quick google search.
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Boots can be changed. It's tight, but you can do it. Sometimes it helps to drop the Y-pipe a bit. I pin punch the tie rod nut and then use a pice of wire to record the lenght the nut is off the inner tie rod. It allows you to put it back to almost aligned. Unscrew the inner tierod, remove the nut and replace the boot. Put it all back together and get an alignment.
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Fix things when they fail. Hope you did the cam and crank seals as well as the oil pump seal and rear plate screws when you were in there for the timing belt. If not, leave them until they start leaking. Rear Breather plate reseal, when you do the clutch and flywheel. Great car. Keep the fluids full and clean and you are good to go. NGK copper core plugs and wires or Subaru wires. Enjoy!
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Find a good Subaru Mechanic! You have already changed parts that were not needed. Non-Subaru halfshafts are known to cause vibration problems.
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Did you have to rewire the radio? If it's just plug and play radio swap I'd put the old one back in. I'm guessing a different ground. With a remote start, security system you are dealing with a few unknowns in there.
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EGR or no EGR? If the wiring mods are on the intake side of the connector, it may be easier just to grab a 2.2 manifold and install it. www.car-part.com is a good source. If you have self-server yards near you that's even better.
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It's happended to many folks. Always good to get it on the road again.
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Yep, way up high. Drop the kick panel, move the seat all the way back and get under the dash.
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I have good ones if you need one. Colorado Springs, CO 80919
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Change the CVT fluid to Amsoil CVT fluid for the life of the trans. A good independent shop that knows Subaru. Find one and stick with them for all maintenance. You'll like it.
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It's a direct mechanical drive. I'd spin it by hand first to make sure it's free. Have someone in the car to look and listen. You may have pulled it loose from the back of the dash when you did the engine change. It's tight, but if you drop the kick panel you can worm your hand up to the back of the cluster and push the spedo cable in to seat it.
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Sping the speedo cable at the transmission end and see if the speedometer goes. Lots of times they will become disconnected behind the dash. It just plugs in. IAC cleaning is always a good start.
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Great car. Mileage will be less then the Honda. Subaru AWD eats some of that mileage. It's a trade. I had a 98 OBS 325K on it when I sold it and it's still going. I have a 2001 OBS now. Both were lifted with Forester struts. Great cars, easy to work on. Ask if and when the timing belt was replaced and hopefully they did all the idlers and cam and crank seals as well.
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Best of Luck
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Might go with a stock one that has the mount. Pretty easy to get. www.car-part.com
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They are very easy to crossthread. Loosen or remove the small bracket between the lines. The B-Nut should thread on by hand a good way. If you need lines let me know, I have some. What year and model are you working on?
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Hit the local junk yards. I'm sure you will find many. Pull all the parts you need. End Links Swaybar Bushings Bushing brackets. www.car-part.com is also a good source, but you need everything.
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Yes most can be machined and returned flat and true. Reseal the breather plate on the back of the block.
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Lots of selfserve lots in CO. Littleton is good as are the UPAP. www.car-part.com is also good.
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www.car-part.com