lmdew

Pretty sure he was talking about Seafoam

Sad Sad Sad. When they don't let Mechanics troubleshoot effectively!

Here you go. 09, 150K, $6300 1 Owner https://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/d/colorado-springs-2009-subaru-outback/7200489504.html

Nice rust free 99 Outback with a low mile 2.2. Trouble free retirement and great body style.

I may have a compressor for you. Send me a pic. Larry

I can send you a good used one for $25. You can do it yourself. If you are going that far, when was the Timing Belt done last? Cam and Crank Seals leaking? You might want to do it all at once.

If I was going to do all that work, I'd pull the motor and do both sides and T-Belt, water pump, seals while its out.

I've installed a few all metal radiators, including side tanks. I have a 2 OPL aluminum radiators I'm very happy with. 01 Impreza and 06 Forester.

Search the form for burping the coolant system. Subaru engine like to trap air in the coolant system if not filled properly. It can lead to overheating. Overheating is not good and can contribute/cause HG leaks. Make sure you have a Subaru Thermostat and not an aftermarket one. Properly fill the coolant system and burp out all air. Drive it and watch the overflow for air and coolant being pushed out of the system. When the engine cools, the overflow coolant should be drawn back into the radiator. Check the radiator fluid level in the radiator when engine is cold.

I have a few used pumps. $20 + shipping They were pulled from they yards when I saw good ones.

Cam Sensor wiring. I bet you have eaten wires somewhere.

I'd just stay away. Plenty others out there.

Did you go stop to stop to bleed out all the air? Is the belt properly tightened? Did the symptoms change? Larry

Years ago I use to make trips across the US to get cars and had like experiences a time or two. It not ideal, but the wise choice if it did not meet the inspection goals.

I've checked lots of tools. No problem. I'm in Colorado Springs, 80 miles south. You are welcome to use the garage. Larry

Cross members are different from Auto to Manual trans and the drive shafts are different lengths.

As long as you load the circuit during the test that works. If you are just reading voltage your meter can lie to you.

Load Pro is a great addition to your tool set. https://www.jbtools.com/electronic-specialties-180-loadpro-dynamic-test-leads-60-long/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw-O35BRDVARIsAJU5mQWgUyIsWhJ9Yw24LZ-S25irTvrKs7nYGBHoBLmyDLb2o3aUDOPGSEsaAnyFEALw_wcB Check it out on youtube.

I've towed plenty with the driveshaft unbolted from the rear diff. Never had an issue, but the front was on a dolly. You'd have to remove the rear half if possible on yours. Lots of work to remove the heatshield to get to the midbearing. Good Luck!

Make sure the 1" hose going from the air box to the IAC is on the airbox! Often overlooked!

Fronts a slightly different but should work. Rears are totally different.

Yes get the CEL Code/s

Auto or manual trans? Check engine light on?

Recheck your connectors for the MAF and that the airbox and hoses are properly installed. Spark, Gas, cranck. Do you have spark? If so you can add a cap of gas to the intake and see if it starts.

If you need a replacement I have some. I'm in Colorado Springs, CO and can put it in the mail.