lmdew

Make sure the 1" hose going from the air box to the IAC is on the airbox! Often overlooked!

Fronts a slightly different but should work. Rears are totally different.

Yes get the CEL Code/s

Auto or manual trans? Check engine light on?

Recheck your connectors for the MAF and that the airbox and hoses are properly installed. Spark, Gas, cranck. Do you have spark? If so you can add a cap of gas to the intake and see if it starts.

If you need a replacement I have some. I'm in Colorado Springs, CO and can put it in the mail.

How was the Key? Torqued to 125 ft lbs.

Outside if my memory is correct. Look the back of the engine on the drivers side. You see all of the components there. Check the qty and the hose. Many time the hoses go soft over time. Start with the basics.

Actuator motor is on the driverside of the dash at the center counsel airbox. You can see the linkage from under the dash, after removing the kick panel. It's tight but you can change it. Get a good visual on it first. It could still be the control panel. Does it move with any dash button selections? 96-99 panels should fit. Legacy and Outback

$500 or walk.

Could be old/bad gas. Mighty try a little gas treatment and or get a full tank of premium in it.

The shoulder of the spring bolt should be up against the flange. The spring hold tension on the connection.

The IAC was different between the Auto and manual trans, I believe. The ECU also needs to know it's a maual and not an auto. Do a search, the info is here.

Lots of times the old donut will leave section in the rear pipe. I've had to chisel them out.

Very nice.

On Subaru Diffs I've pulled there is a vent plug on the top of the diff. You could always drain and fill it with Amsoil gear lube and see if the smell goes away.

I fixed a 2011 for a friend. Her cable on the window motor had a loose strand that bound up the window. Make sure you inhibit button for the passenger windows is not on. Other than that, start checking for power.

That's why I'm staying with my 2001 OBS.

It's the trailing arm bracket that bolts to the body. Be careful with the bracket to body bolts. The nuts in the frame rail have broken loose on me.

www.car-part.com Find one in a rust free area of the US and have them send it to you.

Try asking over here: https://forums.nasioc.com/

Hit the you pull and Pay's. Find a set of Legacy KYB struts and springs. Grab the complete set and bolt them up. Cheap and easy.

I'd hold on to all the parts until you are on the road and it's been fine for a month or so!

Seat of the pants. Just drive it. Try tight slow circles in both directions, checking for torque bind. Make sure it shifts through the gears as it should. No AT Temp light flashing.

Cleaner the better. It's a bunch of work to change the trans. I'd rather replace 2 engines than an Auto trans. Heavy as can be. That does not mean with a good fluid flush once it's running it may be fine. Once you confirm it's working, drain the fluid. Fill, pull the upper radiator ATF line and run another hose into a gallon jug. Start the engine, watch all the old dark nasty fluid be pumped out. 3/4 full, shut off the engine, fill the trans with new fluid and repeat. It usually takes about 3 gallons to get all the old nasty fluid out. Hook up the radiator ATF line. Service to the proper level, take it for a long drive and recheck the fluid level when it's hot. Service as required. You are Done!