lmdew

Yep no easy way. Have to remove the knuckle from the strut and bottom A - arm to get enough room to prevent seal damage.

Rear diff is the way to go for both wheels. I've been doing it for years. No problem

Search Torque Bind on the USMB. Lots of good info and pics. Tires all the same size and pressure? Changed the trans fluid 3x or flushed by pulling the trans cooler line off the radiator? Read the code for the TCU. Instructions on the USMB

RA does not ship to CO. Something about taxes. Crazy!

Which CV Joint? Best just to fix it. Rear, you may be able to remove the rear section of the drive shaft. More work then changing the half shaft. Front, no option but to fix it.

Is your AT Temp light flashing 16 times when you start the car? If the FWD light is not coming on when you put the fuse in the holder and you have torque bind. the C Duty Solenoid is most likely the problem. Lots of info on the USMB. Search Torque bind.

sorry for the extra pic.

So you are most likely seeing a coolant leak. To replace this, the Intake has to come off. I'd pull the hose, check the pipe, hose and clamp. You may be able to clean up the pipe and make sure the hose and clamp are good. Replace as necessary to fix the leak. The small hose going to the throttle body also sometimes leaks and will pool on top of the engine.

Most likely you bent the brake backing plate and it's rubbing the rotor. Jack the car, put a jack stand under it and then with the wheel still on rotate it. Look and listen for the rub.

Did the front O2 Sensor take care of your P2097? Have it on the wife's 2006 Forester. Thanks, Larry

Nice Pics. Great to add to the FAQ.

https://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/d/colorado-springs-1981-volkswagen/7118178070.html

That's in the ball park. The new owner will be looking at 1200 - 3000 to get it back on the road.

Did you get the coolant temp sensor plugged in? Both of them. One is for the dash, the other for the ECU.

Sweet deal for someone.

Lots of good info in this post as well.

The big rubber tube that connects the filler tube to the tank is about a 1/4" thick hose. Not that it couldn't fail but it's not likely. I"d gas it up to just under full. Then take a 5 gallon gas tank and with the car jacked up, fill the tank. It will give you a good view of tank and filler tube. Easy enough.

Where is the car from? If AZ I doubt it rusted out. Filler tube most likely. Also check the fuel pump. Someone may have done a poor job of replacing the gasket on top of the tank. Or fuel line up there.

At one time, I picked up bronze bushing from Ace Hardware. They worked out well.

Here you go, a bit of work and keep that 2.2 reliability and ease of maintenance. 94 Legacy $1200 https://westslope.craigslist.org/cto/d/montrose-1994-subaru-legacy/7113282509.html

There is a sticker on the hood that shows the routing.

AT Light Flashing 16 times on start you have a code. Also take a good look at the rear diff and make sure the half shafts are fully seated. It take only about a 1/4" of outward movement for the axle to disconnect from the drive line. All that power going no where.

Nice!