lmdew

Usually dose have a code. But if the belt checks out, a cheap check.

Yes, I've seen it. Also knock sensor could cause the loss of power.

Glad you found it.

Used engine from UPAP. Can take some time to find one. Things I look for: - Hit hard so you know it was going down the road - Good condition otherwise, lets you know the owner took care of the car - Oil pan pull the plug and check the condition of the oil that's left and no metal in the pan. Yes, it's a roll of the dice, but they give you a 30 day return and for <$400 you can have and engine, new T-Belt, gaskets and be on the road in a weekend.

Should be able to call a Subaru Dealer with the VIN. Talk to the parts dept. They should be able to tell you which Crank gear it has.

You can confirm, by pulling the crank sensor and looking down at the trigger teeth of the crank gear. One style has few (5) large teeth. The other style has many small teeth. If both engines are the same you are good. If not keep your original configuration by swapping the crank and driver side cam gear over.

Check the small single connector on the back of the starter. Did you turn the engine over by hand? I suspect the first, since you are not hearing a click.

I've had a few Foresters that have had the coolant line coming over to a little oil cooler that sits between the block and oil filter.

Call a Dealer and ask them for a Picture. Where did you Mom buy the Subaru?

Owners manual should have a picture she can look at.

Classic Head Gasket Leak. When cold, it will hold pressure. When it's hot, the compression gasses are pushing the coolant out of the block and into the overflow bottle. Many time the coolant will not be pulled back into the coolant system. Check the Radiator level in the radiator when cold. Any oily black stuff in the overflow bottle confirms the HG leak. Drop a good 2.2 in it and go.

I know CCR use to knurl the piston skirts to raise the metal and then turn them for the clearance they wanted. Have no idea if Rick is still doing that or not.

I have y pipes in good condition and cats for that matter. Dual Port. The 96 2.2 may be a Single port. Have him take a pic.

Great deal. You should have seen the airport police when I had 2 90's subaru's pulled apart in the parking lot. Sitting on the railroad track parking lot fence. They couldn't believe I had the rear sub frames and trans sitting on the ground from both cars. No worries, I'll be out and cleaned up by the end of the day.

Yes, I've had a few both engine oil pan and rear diff. Not may junk yard runs these days, but if you don't find one let me know.

Did you get it fixed?

1+ on the above information. If you have the 2 piece rear drive shaft, you can remove the section between the mid bearing and the rear diff. Torque Bind puts you in Full Time AWD.

I've pulled the Subaru systems out of the yards. Pretty cheap. You can cut the car side wiring with enough there so you know what color wire you are tapping into on your car. Running the door wiring through the door hinge grommet is a bit of work but it can be done. Easy option is just to use your key!

I've seen several 96 with a separate actuator in the drivers door. I forget the wiring. Almost looked aftermarket.

1+ for GD He is in Portland OR so not to far from you.

The You Pull and Pay - Self Serve yards will have plenty of lower mileage fans for you.

They should not have been by Air Bag System.

What Service did you have done?

And then the storage rule will come into play. After years of hanging on to stuff you will Recycle/trash it. A week later, you so some USMB member will need it.

Nice, I've had a few up in that range.