lmdew

Yep lots of info out there. Easy to do, just take your time. Check out you tube has many videos that show timing belt replacement. Since you have to drain the coolant anyway, may as well pull the radiator and fans. More room to work.

Can you get a jack under the front to jack and spin the wheels by hand?

Do you feel it in the lower Driver's seat? Rear Brake rotor.

I take a 1" step drill and drill a series of holes in the plastic guard so the rocks, dirt... can drop out. Others leave it off completely.

Love CO, never see rust like that.

They have the wrong bolts in the flange. There is a stepped bolt that allows some spring movement and flex. The step flange of the bolt bottom on the front flange.

Recheck your connection that you made and anything disconnected. Pretty sure it's a maintenance induced fault. Recheck the fuses as well.

www.car-part.com Find a good used Subaru hood. It will most likely be less than having it painted over and over again.

Glad you got it!

Thanks for the feedback.

What do you think? Bad Alternator? https://fortcollins.craigslist.org/cto/d/fort-collins-2005-subaru-outback-ll/7090829632.html I've been thinking of a H6 for a long time.

Maintenance History should always be reviewed/considered. Glad you found it.

I always get the clamp off. Take a small screwdriver and work in into the hose. Start the WD-40 spray as I work the screwdriver all the way around the hose. That helps a bunch. It will still be a bugger.

The big hose going to the tank will be fine. You may need a new clamp on it. Use some WD-40 or something like it to lube the hose before you pull the old fill tube off and when you put the new one in. It can be a bugger.

Have you cleared the codes?

The Subaru ones are usually pretty good. It's the aftermarket ones I always pull out.

I think the newer 2001 has the sensor inside the hub. The tone ring is on the end of the half shaft so you shouldn't have damaged it. You may have snagged the harness coming down the strut. I'd start there.

Your best option is to remove the plastic cover and do a good inspection. I may have a good rust free CO tube for you. The ones I have just have the single 1/2 dia tube coming off the top. PM your email and I can send you a pic.

The IAC hose is not connected to the airbox. I've had shops to this more than once. Easy fix, the 1" dia black IAC air hose is thick/stiff but it can be bent enough to get it back on the nipple without removing the upper half of the air filter box.

1+ disconnected IAC hose, the 1" dia. one going to the air filter box. Had the air filter cover been removed before this started?

I'd stay with the old style. I have never seen one fail like that. I pull spares out of the yard when I see them exposed by other pulling parts already. As others have said compress slowly!

Yep, always check the radiator level when cold in the radiator as well as the overflow tank. I picked up a used Subaru some years ago. Overflow was full and full of black oily stuff. Radiator took over a gallon. When I started it with the radiator cap off it looked like Old Faithful. If the PO didn't know about the issue, I consider the engine junk as them most likely have overheated the main bearings.

Halfshafts if the boots are good and there is NOT excessive play they should be good.

Also take a good look at the half shafts CV Joints. They are usually not an intermittent failure item, but worth a look.

I've thought about them many times but when I compare it to the ease of maintenance on my 90 - 2000 2.2 I don't make the leap.