lmdew

Thanks for the update. May be I should go work for GD in my retirement from the airlines. Nov 3rd is right around the corner. Larry

If the thread extractor broke in the bolt, no drill will work. Which bolt is it? The extractors are hardened and you can not drill them.

The bolts are holding in in place but also snug against the sealing surface. Did the bolts break or did you strip the threads out of the block? If they broke you may be able to get them out with reverse twist drills or drill and easy out. If you stripped the threads, heli coil the damaged hole in the block. You are right there now. If you put it all back together you will have lots of work to get back down to the pump. While you can most likely drive it, it depends on which two of the bolts broke. It's a roll of the dice. It's Always better to Do It Right the First Time!

Put a jumper wire into the connector and hook up the pump. Put your meter to the jumper wires so you can read the voltage under load. I bet you have a significant voltage drop.

I have a bunch of Stock Subaru ones. $20 shipped. Lmdew2@gmai.com Nice rust free CO parts.

I have the Cometic gaskets 2 sets and a set of 2.2 heads for a Frankenmotor. I'll make you a great deal on the set. I'm in Colorado but shipping should not be to bad. I can ship FedEx to a business address to save some $$. Larry

With no load, pump disconnected your meter can lie to you. Check out Load Pro on you tube. It allows you to load the circuit ruling out high resistance. Easy enough to hit the self serve yards and pop out a couple of Subaru pumps.

www.car-part.com might be a good source.

Very interesting. I've had a Subaru or two that had light symptoms.

Here you go. One you can drive out and pull the engine out of a nice rust free CO car. https://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/d/2008-subaru-impreza-salvage/6339719182.html

I have the correct hub, removed from a low mileage CO rust free car. $80 shipped.

Send me a pic of yours, if I have a matching one I can ship it out Tue, $40 shipped. Lmdew2@gmail.com

Check the Fort Collins CO Craigslist. There is a rolled Impreza with low mileage engine.

14.3 volts or so is what the Alt should be putting out. Check all the battery and battery cable connections. The negative cable goes back to the engine block, just in front of the starter. You didn't say what year or model it was. Most auto parts stores will test your alt for free. If you do need one, I have several for 96-99. Go Subaru, new or used is better than aftermarket. Larry

Sometimes you get lucky. Nice.

Got a good one, PM'd you. Larry

O-Ring

As long as you are wise enough to check the oil.

Yep, keep your 99 and get the trans rebuilt by GD or drop in a low mileage used one.

Yes you should be concerned. Subaru's come up to temp and the temp gauge is always at the same spot if everything is working properly. Make sure you check the radiator coolant level in the tank, not just the overflow when it's cold. It should be full. The newer 2.5 have external coolant and or oil leaks at the HG. Check them. It is possible that the load was just to much. Has it been back to normal since? Latty

Thanks

Thanks, he may be able to do that. Thanks, Larry

A few years ago I put a 95 2.2 into a 98 Legacy Outback and it went to a friend in Seattle. I helped him this weekend try to figure out the no fans on AC and P0441. I put the car in D-Check and the main fan cycled. The sub fan did not. We plugged the sub fan into the main fan connector to make sure the fan was good and it did cycle on and off. I know the 4 relays in the engine fuse box control the fans and AC. The sub fan relay main/silver contacts have no voltage at the connector. I could jump the AC Relay front one and the main fan would come on. Jumping the sub fan did not power it up. The AC compressor does work, just no fans. The Compressor clutch cycles on and off as it should when we have the AC on. I checked the Evap connector at the rear of the car for voltage, I had 0 volts. I'm not sure it was a good reading as the ECU provides the ground, so both leads in the connector would show 0 volts if the ground was open. I did try pin to a bolt but I'm not positive it was a good ground. The schematic show power to the connector when the key is on and the ECU controls the ground. They were just chilton manuals so it may be in error. Any help would be appreciated. Any good USMB Members in the Seattle area with a shop? Thanks Larry

GD you have indicated in the past the Oil Pumps are stamped showing the thickness of the pump. It would be great if you could put some pictures up of the different pumps. Thanks Larry

Sounds like a good plan. I'd also look at the plugs - copper core NGK and Subaru or NGK wires as you know. Fuel Filter/fuel pressure check. Good Luck,