lmdew

Put it on a Dolly then Jack the one rear tire off the ground and drop the 4 bolts connecting the drive shaft to the rear diff. I've done it many times, works great.

I've used Gray RTV on all of them and it's worked well on many engine and transmissions. Clean the surfaces well and then I let it cure 24 hours before I put fluid in an start it up. Most Subaru Valve Covers have there own seal and it goes on dry.

Yes, you did not put the year and model in your post but the relays for the fan are normally under the hood in the fuse box on the drivers side. You can also hook up the green connectors under the dash to put it in the Check mode and the fans will cycle on and off.

Buy a good used rack. Better safe than sorry. You may be able to find a quality rack at one of the You Pull & Pay junk yards. Then you'd just have to get them keyed. I see nice racks all the time in the yard.

Make sure you check the coolant level in the radiator when it's cold. Do you have good heat from the vents? I've never checked the voltage at the sensor but yes it sounds like a bad temp sensor.

Grab it and get a good used 95 2.2 and drop it in after doing the Timing Belt and seals. It will run forever and it's plug and play. You want the same EGR configuration as the current 2.5. Less then $500 for the engine and parts and your set.

Yes, Rampart Range Road is a nice drive. I can be a little bumpy and if the wife does not like looking over the edge of the cliff she may not like it. Nice views. Larry

I'd check www.car- part.com first for the correct year.

Disconnect the coil Plug and crank it over until the oil light goes out to ensure you have it lubricated. Then plug the coil back in and start it.

Sorry to say, I just purchased a 12 pack of stock Blue filters. So it goes

Thanks, might give it a try. The OBS has 220k on it and the PO had the new clutch go out. NAPA replace the clutch for them and I asked about the shaft free play. They said they checked it. But then when I was driving it, I had a hard time getting into 4th. Not all the time but sometimes. The trans on a Forester that had the center of the clutch go out felt the same. So better to put a new trans in it now.

I picked up a 98 Impreza OBS that needs a new Trans. The search of the local yards turned up several newer trans with the hyd release. I've converted cable to hyd clutch release before, but I don't want to go to that expense again. Is it possible to change the clutch fork and remove the cable bracket from the old trans and bolt it up to the newer trans? Thanks

Usually a bad sensor or stuff on the sensor. The front sensors are behind the disk. Clean the sensors and or read the codes to see the ABS faults.

How many miles on the engine? How long did you drive it where the Temp gauge was higher than normal? If you can find a good used 2.2 at a self serve yard, I find it is usually less than doing the HG and much quicker. Good Luck.

NGK or Subaru Wires. NGK Plugs, Copper Core Subaru Coil if you need one. I have a bunch of Subaru Coils if you end up needing one. What year and what engine? Unlikely that they all failed at once, but start with a good visual inspection of the wires and go from there.

I often use a hotesy and clean the with hot water and simple green. Make sure you let them dry fully.

Fixed it on my Daughters 99 Impreza OBS. the short extension on the read O2 Sensor did the trick.

I'd at least open up the timing and get a good visual. What year is it? 96 and later are interference engines and if it goes you will likely bend valves.

Would be nice if http://overdraftautolife.com/2013/08/21/do-it-yourself/ has some interior pics. May be a bit short for someone over 6' tall. Also no kitchen hatch.

http://vintageoverland.com/ I read the article in Popular Mechanics and then went to the website. Thought some of you may enjoy the info.

Check the ground connections. I had one fellow here in town that had installed 4 different used Alt that I had for him. He finally brought the car over for me to look at. As I check the grounds, the main battery ground lead that bolts to the engine block bracket at the starter mount bolt was loose. When I pulled it off the bracket and terminal on the ground wire was all pitted. I changed the battery leads and bracket the problem was fixed. Larry

Looks good to me. It's been a few years since I've had one off, but I think you are good.

Yep, do the T-Belt, Cam and Crank Seals and the Oil pump screws on the back and the oring seal. I use Gray RTV to seal the pump to the block. Light coat, and I like to let it set for 24 hours before I start the engine.

If you have any other work that needs too be done on the engine, pull the engine. Other's notes above apply. I've done it both ways and like pulling the engine better.

Gray RTV, just a very thin coat. I always let mine cure for 24 hours after the install.