lmdew

http://vintageoverland.com/ I read the article in Popular Mechanics and then went to the website. Thought some of you may enjoy the info.

Check the ground connections. I had one fellow here in town that had installed 4 different used Alt that I had for him. He finally brought the car over for me to look at. As I check the grounds, the main battery ground lead that bolts to the engine block bracket at the starter mount bolt was loose. When I pulled it off the bracket and terminal on the ground wire was all pitted. I changed the battery leads and bracket the problem was fixed. Larry

Looks good to me. It's been a few years since I've had one off, but I think you are good.

Yep, do the T-Belt, Cam and Crank Seals and the Oil pump screws on the back and the oring seal. I use Gray RTV to seal the pump to the block. Light coat, and I like to let it set for 24 hours before I start the engine.

If you have any other work that needs too be done on the engine, pull the engine. Other's notes above apply. I've done it both ways and like pulling the engine better.

Gray RTV, just a very thin coat. I always let mine cure for 24 hours after the install.

Subaru or NGK wires, but I'm sure you know that.

GD, I need to stop at your shop and say Hi, the next time I'm in PDX. Larry

Drained the oil, yep I could feel chunks inside the pan. I pulled the engine yesterday. Anyone need parts. The yard core charge is $50 so anything over that is fine by me.

www.car-part.com

Take it out to Shawn at RetroRoo http://retroroo.com/

I've used them and was happy.

Should have just emailed me for a nice rust free knuckle.

Totally different shop in a new location. I use to take used 2.5 DOHC cores up the Rick and Emily at the old CCR. I always enjoyed doing business with them over the years. Great source of engines and information. The new owner seems good, it's just not the same CCR. I assume they are good, time will tell.

www.car-part.com is good as well.

All done, replace the clutch and pressure plate as well. An early Birthday present for my Daughter.

Same symptoms on my Daughter's 98 OBS. Cracked Clutch fork.

Pulled the engine to day after I could push the fork back further by hand. Broken Clutch Fork. Larry

you would have to provide the wiring for it as they plug in right at the sensor.

That's another option, but I did check it when I installed the engine and it was good. No signs of wear.

I had the engine in an out of the Daughters OBS a few months ago. The clutch was pretty much new, good everything else. Yesterday she call, and could not shift into reverse and was having a hard time from 1st to second. Drove up to DEN this morning and I adjusted the clutch cable, there was almost 3/4" of free play. Shifted fine, but I gave her my OBS and brought her's back to COS. By the time I had driven 80 miles the shifting problem was starting to surface again. I adjusted another 1/4" of slake out of the cable. I'm thinking the clutch cable is on the way out, not releasing the pressure on the trans. Trans shifts fine when the engine is off. Anyone ever have a clutch cable do this? Thanks, Larry

+ for reboot stock axles!

Yep, I do it all the time. Put it on the Dolly Jack one rear tire Trans in neutral Brake off 12mm box end wrench and a large straight slot screwdriver. Put the SD through the u-joint to hold the drive shaft while you loosen it. Pull the bolts nuts and washer out. Before you pull the last one, scratch the drive shaft and rear diff so you can put the driveshaft back on in the same position. The driveshaft will just lay in the tunnel and ride free against the rear diff. Bolt it back up before you pull it off the dolly.

I was going to offer to fly over hand help you out. Larry

Yep, when you put the fuse in you should get the FWD light on the dash. The C-Duty coil is most likely shot. You can change it if you drop the trans extension shaft. Search Torque Bind, you will find lots of good pictures and info.