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Neutral switch on the trans tells the ECU when the trans is in between gears. The wires come to the top of the trans right behind the engine so it's easy to check with a meter.

Give Joel a call or email. http://www.greensyncro.com/ Vanagon Sales - Parts - Upgrades - Restoration - Engine Conversions Working only on 1982-1991 Vanagons, Syncros and Westfalias. Located in Manitou Springs, near Colorado Springs, CO Content copyright 2016. GREENSYNCRO.COM. All rights reserved. Contact us at 719-213-7604, or manitousyncro@gmail.com thanks! I have a ecu from a 2002 Subaru Legacy, $30 shipped.

Sunday, I installed the motor. It started and ran great for about 20 minutes, and then started knocking, sounded like a rod knock. Shut it off, it was the end of the day. Strange it ran just like a Subaru should for 20 min. I had pulled the coil plug and cranked it to get oil through the engine before starting it and then when I did hook the coil up it started and ran great. Monday - Thinking one of the valve keepers may have come off, I pulled the fans, accessory belts and valve covers so I could check the valve keepers and crank it over by hand. - all valve keepers and valve train looked good - I pulled the plugs and turned it over by hand. About every 2 or 3 turn as #1 came up on compression the crank would lock up. I did not force it but it would not turn in the normal rotation with light pressure on my 1/2" ratchet. I'd back up the crank a 1/4 turn and then it would crank right through a couple more rotations of the crank. - Just putting my thumb in the plug tube, all cylinder have compression. When I put the plugs back in, one at a time compression felt good as I turned the engine over. - Everything back together and it's turning over fine, not locking up - I get it pointed out the back of work to drive it to the parking lot. - I start it, it's knocking - A minute or so later, the knock turns into what sounds like valve tick - Another couple of minutes and the tick is gone, it's running fine. - Park it for the night Any ideas what could have caused the Knock, locked up crank when turned by hand and then it goes away? Very strange. Thanks, Larry

Changed the Oil Pan return tube o-ring seal and the Valve Guide Seals. Some said it could not be done and I would not opt to do it again, but I was able to change the valve guide seals without pulling the heads. Installed the Timing belt so I could rotate the cams until there was no tension on the valves. Removed both sets of Rocker Arms Removed the Plugs Put the piston at BDC and put rope down the plug hole to fill they cylinder Rotated the crank to bring the piston up to compress the rope and hold the valve up Used a valve spring removal tool, the one that catches the keepers to remove the valve springs Used a Plug Wire Pliers to remove the old valve guide seals Installed and seated new valve guide seals Now the hard part, compressing the springs and getting the keepers in: I used a tool sold for this purpose, but it was too large for the Subaru Valves. I turned down the pin on the lathe. It worked about 50% of the time. When it didn't work, one Keeper was in the other was out. The last time I did valve with the heads off, I had made a valve spring compressor out of PVC Pipe. A 1 1/2 Tee with a 3/4" piece of PVC about 8" long works well. You can cut a 1/2" notch out of the end that will allow you to insert the keeper while you compress the spring. Motor in on my next free day, I hope this has solved the oil consumption issue. Larry

Thanks for all the extra work, I'm sure it will help another member out there.

Changed the tail shaft speed sensor, I shifted well and no power light blinking. The owner drove it home, about 30 miles, no problem. The next day, the blinking power light and shifting problems were back. He put in the FWD fuse and it shifts well but the power light is still blinking. I have not had time to pull the codes yet. Ideas?

They should be able to test the health of the battery, put it on a Load Tester. I doubt it's the ECU. Are you getting spark? If you put a little fuel down the Intake and then try to start it does it start and run for a bit? Does it turn over by hand and feel normal?

I have the cam gear for you. $10 + 5 for shipping. Which side do you need? Driver's side or Passenger Side?

Nope, not much space down there and when you are going down the road at 70 mph or so any fluid is going to blow everywhere. - Clean the engine and cross member - Find and Fix the leak It will take several weeks for the old oil to burn off the exhaust.

Yes they are a pain, just did both a front and rear window on a friends 99 Legacy GT. As others have said, the window will tilt in and down in the front and you can guide the rollers past the door. I pull the 3 12mm nuts for the rear guide and get it out of the way. With the window now inside the door and the front guide in the rail, you can guide the real rail onto the rear bearing and up and into the 3 mounts holes. Put the 12mm nuts on lightly. Mount the window to the lower motor guide rail with the 2, 10mm nuts. Put all hardware back on and sung them up. Test and adjust the window as necessary then tighten everything up. Put the door panel back on and grab a cold one or two.

www.car-part.com Great source and place of info.

I could have you in a great OBS from Rust Free Colorado for that or much less. I had a 98 OBS with 330K on it when i sold it for $1800 and it's still going strong. I picked up a 2000 OBS that needed engine work for $600 and its doing great. I lifted both my OBS with Forster struts and I like the ride and the look. Pretty easy to do. I have a friend in Sullivan WI, who I set up his Mom with a 98 OBS. If you want to take it for a test drive I'm sure he'd let you. The 95-99 2.2 are pretty rock solid. The newer 2.5 SOHC engines have a slight HG issue, but they leak externally so it's easy to spot and repair. As long as you keep oil and coolant full, you can run them leaking for years. I get 28-30 MPG on my OBS, Timing belt at 105K the first time and I like to do them at 80 to 100K after that. Use NGK copper plugs and wires. Not much else.

I've done it this way for years. Works great. It usually takes about 3 gallons of fluid for the trans coolant fluid to come out bright red instead of dirty. Easy and little work.

I've always had good luck with used hubs and bearings. I'm in CO where they are pretty rust free. www.car-part.com is a good source. You can get a good used hub and bolt it in with a lot less work than changing the bearing.

This is it. What is the failure mode of the flex plate? At the outer rim bolts or at the center?

When I do the Forster Strut Lift, on the rear struts I put a smaller dia bolt in the top hole and move the hub all the way in against the bolt. I've been running this way for years, no problem. I pull a spare bolt out of my stock of Subaru Bolts, I use the bolt that goes through the trailing arm and into the bottom of the rear hub. If a spacer is needed, I grab the extra strut nut you are not using and put it on the bolt with the small end against the strut and the nut flange out so the 17mm nut for the small dia bolt has a flange to mate up with. Hit a self serve yard and you will have everything you need for a few $. Larry

Hole in the outer flat section of the seal and then a screw into the hole +1 vote.

Yes, Check the spring pin on the end and the seal in the transmission. If they both look in good condition, put the shaft into the transmission the then use the strut/brake mass to push the shaft back in until the sap-ring seats. The other way to do it, would be to pull the spring pin out of the inner half shaft, remove the axle stub shaft, seat it in the trans with a dead blow hammer, make sure it does not pull out and then put the half shaft back on the stub axle and install the roll pin.

Nice job, I'm sure it will help lots of folks.

My local UPAP charged me a $1 a rod last week. Easy to pull and then you know you have a good bushing on each end.

Yes, radio works, just no memory function. Thanks, I'll pass the info on to the owner. Larry

A friend at work has a 99 Legacy Outback that Radio memory and interior overhead lights not working. The radio works but looses the time and stations anytime you turn the car off. The overhead lights are not working either. I'm out of town so I don't have access to my computer manuals. Anyone have the FSM for a 1999 Legacy Outback Wagon? Do the lights and radio go through the illumination control box? Thanks Larry

No notches on the one I have for you, Larry

It would not hurt. The factory sealant holds the pan on very well. If you put them back in, clean the pan and area well and then see where the leak is coming from. Trans coolant lines?

Did you surface the flywheel? New pressure plate and through out bearing? Exedy clutches have been good to me over the years.