lmdew

The clock on the upper left of the instrument cluster is out. Anyone ever fix these? Thanks, Larry

www.car-part.com There are a set of 17 aluminum on the Colorado Springs, CO craigslist for $300.

Yep, works great. I've done this numerous times. I end up using about 3 gallons of fluid.

Or get Forester Struts and give yourself a lift, about 2". I've done several and love them.

The clutch is spring loaded. The pressure plate tension is released by the clutch. It's unlikely that the hyd system would cause the slipping. Make sure you check the rear diff and make sure the axles are fully inserted. I've had a couple of them where one axle had popped out about a 1/2" and all the power to the rear was not going to the wheels. Felt just like a slipping clutch. Two other Mechanics told the previous owner the car needed a clutch. Putting the axle back in fixed the problem.

The hitches bolt into the frame, with the same bolts that hold the bumper on. It would be pretty easy to weld up a mount for the winch.

Lots of deals on 97-99 Outbacks with the 2.5 DOHC engine in them. < $500. Drop a good used 2.2 in with new T-Belt, Seals... and for under a $1000. You will have a very nice car that will last for years.

Yes, if you need a couple of spare cam and Crank Sensors, I can send them to you. Friday, I'll be flying through ORD. Larry

I'd try it or get a used one.

Yes, an electrical motor drives it.

Subaru Crank Sensor? Also check the Cam Sensor.

Missed the USMB for a few days. Hope all is well.

It's all internal to the cluster. The drive in the trans is just an electrical signal to the dash. I'd grab a used dash from a yard and put it in.

With the timing belt off you can rotate the cams so the valves are closed and then put the crank front belt pulley on and turn it with the bolt. The passenger side cam is free when the alignment mark is up, so those valves are closed The Drivers side cam is under spring pressure from the valves being open. You can rotate it about a 1/4 turn clockwise with a 17mm wrench on the cam sprocket bolt to close the valves. Once the crank is set, just rotate it back to the alignment mark.

Get a good used 97-99 Outback with a good old 2.2 motor installed. It will run forever and it's easy to work on. These came with the 2.5 DOHC but you can plug and play a 2.2 in easy. Nice, cheap insurance, nice car and it will get you where you want to go for under $4000

www.car-part.com Find a door near you and swap out the complete door. Easy! Cheap if you find one at a self serve yard.

How much movement do you get out of the fork? The slave cyl should be able to be put back together as it's just a seal cup. You will then have to bleed it. If you clipped the throw out bearing to the fork, there's really no where for it to go.

Bad Alt causing the battery light. Bad Main Ground wire, burnt contacts at the engine ground point. Fixed, Happy Subaru Owner. Thanks Gary! Larry

Yes t he Battery icon goes away with the Alt disconnected. Trying another one! No security stuff. Thanks, Larry

A fellow in town has a 95 Legacy, Auto. I gave him an Alt to fix his charging problem, it was used but good as far as I know. Gave him another used one, same thing. He stopped over today, good battery voltage 13 volts. I changed a the alt again, no luck. When the car is started battery voltage goes down to 12.5 volts and 12.3 with the light on. Fuses look good, connections clean. Then I noticed the battery light on the dash is on when the key is off. I have never seen this before. Help! Thanks, Larry

I have two sets of COMTEC H/G for the 2.5 block and 2.2 heads if you need them. I was going to build a high compression motor but have not done it. The 98 Impreza OBS I picked up for my Daughter with a thrown rod took 3 engines to get a good on. You never know with used engines, but over the years and 40+ junk yard engines I've only had 2 that did not work out. Larry

I have one I could send you. Don't fail often. Is your's bolted to the fuel rail? $15 shipped.

Good covers and no leaks keep things nice and clean and rust free.

You should be able to drill just the bolt and easyout it. Or buy reverse drills and it might back it out as you drill. Larry

Much easier to leave the trans in the car! Make sure you keep the TC fully seated in the trans and push it away from the flex plate once all 4 bolts are removed. It will move back about an 1/8" You will have to jack the trans about an 1" and 1/2 to allow the flex plate to clear the cross member. Don't jack on the pan as it will dent.