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lmdew

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Everything posted by lmdew

  1. Yes, Check the spring pin on the end and the seal in the transmission. If they both look in good condition, put the shaft into the transmission the then use the strut/brake mass to push the shaft back in until the sap-ring seats. The other way to do it, would be to pull the spring pin out of the inner half shaft, remove the axle stub shaft, seat it in the trans with a dead blow hammer, make sure it does not pull out and then put the half shaft back on the stub axle and install the roll pin.
  2. My local UPAP charged me a $1 a rod last week. Easy to pull and then you know you have a good bushing on each end.
  3. A friend at work has a 99 Legacy Outback that Radio memory and interior overhead lights not working. The radio works but looses the time and stations anytime you turn the car off. The overhead lights are not working either. I'm out of town so I don't have access to my computer manuals. Anyone have the FSM for a 1999 Legacy Outback Wagon? Do the lights and radio go through the illumination control box? Thanks Larry
  4. It would not hurt. The factory sealant holds the pan on very well. If you put them back in, clean the pan and area well and then see where the leak is coming from. Trans coolant lines?
  5. Did you surface the flywheel? New pressure plate and through out bearing? Exedy clutches have been good to me over the years.
  6. Sounds like you have a large fuel leak. Was the injector hard to push in? The o-rings make them a very firm seat. Find out where all the extra fuel is coming from and correct that first. You might also want to change the oil and filter is the oil has fuel in it.
  7. Works great. If there was the demand, I' could make up a bunch of steel straps with a hole on one end and a bolt welded in the other end. Larry
  8. Take a double end box wrench, put one end over the rear block stud and the other end to a bolt through the flex plate outer hole. Easy
  9. Both style tools under $25. https://www.amazon.com/Qbace-Joint-Clamps-Pliers-Banding/dp/B015IH45ZK/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1467111923&sr=1-3&keywords=cv+joint+clamp
  10. For the bands with the little tooth hooks a tile nipper works OK For the bands that slip under the ring a vise grips and screwdriver used a a pry bar against the vise grips and ring works OK The correct tools are best. Sometimes I end up using aviation safety wire and just putting several wraps around. this works well also.
  11. Search the form for the special process to get the codes. I just used it on a friends car.
  12. Are you talking about the mechanical drive for the Speedo cable? The speedometer is working fine. That's why I was thinking the sensors on the tail shaft. Thanks, Larry
  13. The IAC are a little different, but an easy swap. Make sure the torque converter stays back and fully seated in the trans. Different Starter Reseal the rear breather plate while you have the trans off. Leave the remain alone, they mostly never leak unless someone changes one. No fluids when you pull the trans from the engine.
  14. Auto or Manual? Your hill holder may the problem if you have a manual trans.
  15. A new key and 140 ftlbs of torque on the bolt and you should be fine. I have had a good welder weld the key in with the crank in. Still working fine years later. It was on a 95 2.2. There is also a repair that uses roll pins to pin the damper to the crank gear. Good luck. Larry
  16. No, they leak but, don't fail often. Do you have an Automatic? Is your AT TEMP light flashing 16 times after you start the car? Search Torque Bind.
  17. A friends 93 Legacy Auto with 220K on it started having the Blinking Power light, but not all the time. I pulled the codes for him and it showed 32 & 33 the speed sensor. This is not constant, a few miles later, the Power light was off and it was shifting as normal. Thoughts? Thanks, Larry
  18. Standard trans fluid hoses. NAPA should have it in stock. Front seal leaks usually come out the front of the transmission at the engine to block split line.
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