lmdew
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Everything posted by lmdew
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Nope Lug spacing is different. The Outback is 5x100 as are most other Subaru's other than the STI & SVX. TireRack.com is always s good place to look up basics on wheels. -
Basically, turn the cams to where the valves are closed, no pressure on the cam gear and then you can turn the crank until the index mark on the back tooth of the crank gear lines up with the tick mark under the crank sensor. When you have the crank set, line up the cams. When you compress the belt tensioner do it slowly and so it's in the same position as installed - vertical. Turn everything over by hand several times to check for interference. If it's good, start her up. Then put a dollar bill up to the tail pipe, if it gets sucked back to the pipe, you have a bent valve.
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Looks like I'll be stripping 2 or 3 Auto's and one manual transmission to get the aluminum to the scrap yard. If you want any parts, you pay shipping and take care of my time (reasonable offer) and the parts are yours. Larry
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If you want some help, let me know. I'm in COS, Larry
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Yes, the double exhaust ports. The 96-98 2.2 have a Single port exhaust.
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Heating elements lay on top of the foam. Easy to remove and install.
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Have nice 2002 Legacy seats in COS.
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You rebuilt the engine and now you have higher compression - more breaking effect. I doubt it's the clutch if everything else about the clutch is OK. If the pressure plate was tight up against the flywheel and the centering tool slid in an out with ease it should be fine. I'd look at your drive shaft u-joints and then the rest of the drive line. Using the engine as a brake is not the best thing for it anyway, IMHO That's what brakes are for.
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It depends on the trim level. Some did, some did not. Look in the trunk you should be able to tell.
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Get the code out of the computer. Clean the oil and then watch where it's coming from - Valve Cover Gaskets is easy There is also a rear cam cover that has an o-ring and is easy to change.
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6 one way 1/2 dozen the other. If you have any other engine work that needs to be done, pull the engine. At the very least you want to reseal the rear separator plate on the back of the engine under the flywheel. You can drop the trans, but then the other work is harder.
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CO!
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All accessories will swap over. You will need the single port y-pipe. Make sure it has the EGR Do t-belt, valve cover seals, rear breather plate, oil pump o-ring and rear cover screws.
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There is a snap ring on the end of the axle shaft that goes into the Rear Diff. It has to get popped in. If the lateral links are removed, a good jolt on the rear brake will pop the snap ring in. If the links are hooked up, put a wood block up against the inner CV Joint boot and give it a good hit. I don't like this option as you can damage the boot.
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I have a non-EGR 2.2 intake manifold. I'm in Colorado, 80919 You pay shipping and I can strip it down (less weight) and ship it out Monday. Larry
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Not very common. What engine is it? I have several manifolds I could send your way. Larry
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Thanks, I'll pull one at the yard when I get time.
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I got it adjusted for the upper stops just fine, but when it opens all the way in auto, the motor drive gear jumps the teeth. I forget what stops the motor drive going open.
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I've bought many clutches from Gripforce and all of them have been good.
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Do the Sway for < $500 with new T-Belt and seals. I've done about 50 of them, loved them all. You can even change the plugs in a 2.2 without spending lots of time trying to get the tools and plugs in and out of the hole.
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Buy me a few XXX and put me up for a week and I'll fly down with some. Larry
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- 2000 subaru
- legacy
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Get the CEL and Trans codes 1st! Yes, a trans flush and new filter would be a good second step. When I flush the trans I: 1- Drain 2- Pull the Trans radiator cooler line, put it in a gallon jug 3- Fill with new fluid 4- Start the car, the old fluid will pump out 5- Shut the engine off when you have about 1/2 gallon Repeat steps 3-5 until you get new clean fluid out. Larry
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First, put a 2x4 on the floor under the brake pedal so it does not go to the floor in an area of the master cylinder where it has not been going. It can take out the seal. 1) With a hose on the bleeder going into some brake fluid pump until you have a firm brake 2) With light pressure on the brake, loosen the nut to let the old fluid come out 3) Repeat steps 1&2 until you have clean air free fluid coming out of the brake. Make sure you don't run the master cylinder out of fluid. http://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-101-System-Bleeder/dp/B00CJ5DWKO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1454529257&sr=8-5&keywords=motive+products+brake+bleeder Worth every penny.
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Best to put a meter on the battery terminals and measure the voltage before you start it and then after. When it's running you should have 13.6 volts or more. If you don't have a meter, but you do have a compass put it on the battery, when you crank the car the N will point in one direction, when it's running it should point in the opposite direction tell you it charging. If you need an ALT, the best and least expensive route is a self serve yard. Pull a Subaru Alt for about $45.
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They should but with that small sidewall the ride won't be so nice. Larry