lmdew

This is it. What is the failure mode of the flex plate? At the outer rim bolts or at the center?

When I do the Forster Strut Lift, on the rear struts I put a smaller dia bolt in the top hole and move the hub all the way in against the bolt. I've been running this way for years, no problem. I pull a spare bolt out of my stock of Subaru Bolts, I use the bolt that goes through the trailing arm and into the bottom of the rear hub. If a spacer is needed, I grab the extra strut nut you are not using and put it on the bolt with the small end against the strut and the nut flange out so the 17mm nut for the small dia bolt has a flange to mate up with. Hit a self serve yard and you will have everything you need for a few $. Larry

Hole in the outer flat section of the seal and then a screw into the hole +1 vote.

Yes, Check the spring pin on the end and the seal in the transmission. If they both look in good condition, put the shaft into the transmission the then use the strut/brake mass to push the shaft back in until the sap-ring seats. The other way to do it, would be to pull the spring pin out of the inner half shaft, remove the axle stub shaft, seat it in the trans with a dead blow hammer, make sure it does not pull out and then put the half shaft back on the stub axle and install the roll pin.

Nice job, I'm sure it will help lots of folks.

My local UPAP charged me a $1 a rod last week. Easy to pull and then you know you have a good bushing on each end.

Yes, radio works, just no memory function. Thanks, I'll pass the info on to the owner. Larry

A friend at work has a 99 Legacy Outback that Radio memory and interior overhead lights not working. The radio works but looses the time and stations anytime you turn the car off. The overhead lights are not working either. I'm out of town so I don't have access to my computer manuals. Anyone have the FSM for a 1999 Legacy Outback Wagon? Do the lights and radio go through the illumination control box? Thanks Larry

No notches on the one I have for you, Larry

It would not hurt. The factory sealant holds the pan on very well. If you put them back in, clean the pan and area well and then see where the leak is coming from. Trans coolant lines?

Did you surface the flywheel? New pressure plate and through out bearing? Exedy clutches have been good to me over the years.

Sounds like you have a large fuel leak. Was the injector hard to push in? The o-rings make them a very firm seat. Find out where all the extra fuel is coming from and correct that first. You might also want to change the oil and filter is the oil has fuel in it.

Works great. If there was the demand, I' could make up a bunch of steel straps with a hole on one end and a bolt welded in the other end. Larry

Take a double end box wrench, put one end over the rear block stud and the other end to a bolt through the flex plate outer hole. Easy

i have one $30 shipped.

That part bolts onto the engine. Get a used one from the yard. Easy. Larry

Push the handle in and then unlock it.

Both style tools under $25. https://www.amazon.com/Qbace-Joint-Clamps-Pliers-Banding/dp/B015IH45ZK/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1467111923&sr=1-3&keywords=cv+joint+clamp

For the bands with the little tooth hooks a tile nipper works OK For the bands that slip under the ring a vise grips and screwdriver used a a pry bar against the vise grips and ring works OK The correct tools are best. Sometimes I end up using aviation safety wire and just putting several wraps around. this works well also.

Always the best option IMHO as you can see and do it right the first time.

Search the form for the special process to get the codes. I just used it on a friends car.

Are you talking about the mechanical drive for the Speedo cable? The speedometer is working fine. That's why I was thinking the sensors on the tail shaft. Thanks, Larry

The IAC are a little different, but an easy swap. Make sure the torque converter stays back and fully seated in the trans. Different Starter Reseal the rear breather plate while you have the trans off. Leave the remain alone, they mostly never leak unless someone changes one. No fluids when you pull the trans from the engine.

Auto or Manual? Your hill holder may the problem if you have a manual trans.

A new key and 140 ftlbs of torque on the bolt and you should be fine. I have had a good welder weld the key in with the crank in. Still working fine years later. It was on a 95 2.2. There is also a repair that uses roll pins to pin the damper to the crank gear. Good luck. Larry