lmdew

There is a snap ring on the end of the axle shaft that goes into the Rear Diff. It has to get popped in. If the lateral links are removed, a good jolt on the rear brake will pop the snap ring in. If the links are hooked up, put a wood block up against the inner CV Joint boot and give it a good hit. I don't like this option as you can damage the boot.

I have a non-EGR 2.2 intake manifold. I'm in Colorado, 80919 You pay shipping and I can strip it down (less weight) and ship it out Monday. Larry

Not very common. What engine is it? I have several manifolds I could send your way. Larry

Thanks, I'll pull one at the yard when I get time.

I got it adjusted for the upper stops just fine, but when it opens all the way in auto, the motor drive gear jumps the teeth. I forget what stops the motor drive going open.

I've bought many clutches from Gripforce and all of them have been good.

Do the Sway for < $500 with new T-Belt and seals. I've done about 50 of them, loved them all. You can even change the plugs in a 2.2 without spending lots of time trying to get the tools and plugs in and out of the hole.

Buy me a few XXX and put me up for a week and I'll fly down with some. Larry

Get the CEL and Trans codes 1st! Yes, a trans flush and new filter would be a good second step. When I flush the trans I: 1- Drain 2- Pull the Trans radiator cooler line, put it in a gallon jug 3- Fill with new fluid 4- Start the car, the old fluid will pump out 5- Shut the engine off when you have about 1/2 gallon Repeat steps 3-5 until you get new clean fluid out. Larry

First, put a 2x4 on the floor under the brake pedal so it does not go to the floor in an area of the master cylinder where it has not been going. It can take out the seal. 1) With a hose on the bleeder going into some brake fluid pump until you have a firm brake 2) With light pressure on the brake, loosen the nut to let the old fluid come out 3) Repeat steps 1&2 until you have clean air free fluid coming out of the brake. Make sure you don't run the master cylinder out of fluid. http://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-101-System-Bleeder/dp/B00CJ5DWKO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1454529257&sr=8-5&keywords=motive+products+brake+bleeder Worth every penny.

Best to put a meter on the battery terminals and measure the voltage before you start it and then after. When it's running you should have 13.6 volts or more. If you don't have a meter, but you do have a compass put it on the battery, when you crank the car the N will point in one direction, when it's running it should point in the opposite direction tell you it charging. If you need an ALT, the best and least expensive route is a self serve yard. Pull a Subaru Alt for about $45.

They should but with that small sidewall the ride won't be so nice. Larry

Get the Factory wiring, sometime you can find them online. Load, Ground Power Once you have all three located you can test the circuit. I've stripped a few cars of your vintage, if my memory serves me correctly, all the wiring runs down the passenger side door frame, lower rail. I believe there is a main connector up at the passenger side front kick panel as well. Find a good diagram, otherwise your just chasing your tail. You have done some good testing so far. Good Luck, Larry

Did you check voltage with the fan connected or disconnected? If Disconnected you meter can lie to you. Check out Load Pro on you tube. You will find numerous videos Dan Sullivan has done on properly checking voltage. - Seeing Voltage in the connector you have ruled out: 1) Opens 2) Shorts You need to check the circuit under load (fan connected) or using the Load Pro to rule out high resistance.

I take it you are talking y-pipe to Cat? Take it a part and inspect it. You can grind any high spots down, bend the tabs until they pull well. If you get it flat a single gasket should work.

Good things come to those who wait.

Thanks

If you want to sell it let me know. I'm in Colorado Springs and work on Subaru's for fun. Thanks Larry I have an 05 OBS with a rebuilt engine that's ready to go.

Not that hard to change, but expect a full day under the car if it's your first one. Search torque bind you will find some great write ups.

It's an pretty simple electrical circuit with a few connections. Open, Short or High Resistance is the only faults you can have in a circuit. Power on check is the best check you can do but harder to do. Easy stuff, have the shop open and clean the main trans connectors.

Easy or hard to change? Thanks, Larry

The question is what will it cost you to buy it back from the insurance company. It does not look to bad, if you could post pics of the engine compartment and frame rails... we could tell you more. In parts it's worth the most unless someone wants to put it on the road as a personal Subaru.

Subaru engine will airlock if not filled and burped properly. Why did you change those parts? Was it overheating before the change? Did you rule out Head Gaskets? Look in your overflow bottle, is there black oily stuff in there? If so your HG are most likely gone. 2.2 swap is a great option.

Get a nice 98-99 Subaru outback with a bad 2.5 DOHC engine and do the 2.2 swap. You will be in a newer car and love the engine.

95 2.2