lmdew

Did you check voltage with the fan connected or disconnected? If Disconnected you meter can lie to you. Check out Load Pro on you tube. You will find numerous videos Dan Sullivan has done on properly checking voltage. - Seeing Voltage in the connector you have ruled out: 1) Opens 2) Shorts You need to check the circuit under load (fan connected) or using the Load Pro to rule out high resistance.

I take it you are talking y-pipe to Cat? Take it a part and inspect it. You can grind any high spots down, bend the tabs until they pull well. If you get it flat a single gasket should work.

Good things come to those who wait.

Thanks

If you want to sell it let me know. I'm in Colorado Springs and work on Subaru's for fun. Thanks Larry I have an 05 OBS with a rebuilt engine that's ready to go.

Not that hard to change, but expect a full day under the car if it's your first one. Search torque bind you will find some great write ups.

It's an pretty simple electrical circuit with a few connections. Open, Short or High Resistance is the only faults you can have in a circuit. Power on check is the best check you can do but harder to do. Easy stuff, have the shop open and clean the main trans connectors.

Easy or hard to change? Thanks, Larry

The question is what will it cost you to buy it back from the insurance company. It does not look to bad, if you could post pics of the engine compartment and frame rails... we could tell you more. In parts it's worth the most unless someone wants to put it on the road as a personal Subaru.

Subaru engine will airlock if not filled and burped properly. Why did you change those parts? Was it overheating before the change? Did you rule out Head Gaskets? Look in your overflow bottle, is there black oily stuff in there? If so your HG are most likely gone. 2.2 swap is a great option.

Get a nice 98-99 Subaru outback with a bad 2.5 DOHC engine and do the 2.2 swap. You will be in a newer car and love the engine.

95 2.2

2.2 or 2.5? When was the timing belt and Idler gears and water pump done last. I'd start by pulling the two t-belt end covers and see if the cams line up correctly. If not its a timing issue. You can bend valves so turning by hand is a great idea.

There are two 12mm bolt holes in the and the backs as well. You can drive the bolts in to break the rust.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/157364-99-outback-22-swap-random-p0325-p0303/ Always a good idea to search the Form and see what you find. I think the link above will help you out. Good Luck, Larry

Yes, it will bolt right up. Make sure the vac lines on the top are the same. If so you are good.

New knock sensor on order. I swapped in a used one, that ohm out correctly. New one going in and a seafoam treatment.

I did the engine swap a couple of years ago. Sold it to a fellow at work. He had the knock sensor P0325 & misfire on #3 P0303 pretty random for over a year. I suggested the normal: NGK Copper Plugs NGK Spark Plug Wires Gave him a knock sensor to put on gave him a set of fuel injectors to swap in He wanted to sell the car, so I got it back. He had not followed my advice on the NGK plugs and wires so I installed a set and drove the car for a couple of weeks. I sold it to another family friend the they drove it for over a month before the P0325 & P0303 codes came back. There is a slight miss, but over all runs well. About 210K mileage, 5sp. I have not adjusted the valves or taken a compression test. Other things? Thanks, Larry

Stay away from the turbo versions. Nothing but more work and less reliability IMHO.

Pics attached. The rear small hole is where the push plug goes in for the door sill plastic trim. The large hole is the one I cut in with the hole saw. Hope this helps someone down the line.

yes a 2,5 hb will work fine.

Get the key welded in by a quality welder. You'll be fine.

Yes, the crank gear has to be removed to get a new key in!

I'd pull the timing cover, clean out all the junk. If the T-belt and pulleys need to be replaced do it! You have an interference engine and if the timing goes, you will most likely bend valves. It will most likely be hard to remove the crank gear, but you can get it if you file any displaced metal and carefully work it off. Once it's off you can inspect the keyway and see how much damage there is to the crankshaft. I have had keys welded into the keyway and then replaced the gear and HB. It's still running fine. There is a company that sells a kit to mount the HB to the gear, using roll pins. Not cheap, but cheaper than a new engine. If you get a new key and HB in and then torque the bolt it will most likely last. I have HB and a key I could send to you if your in no rush. $25 shipped, USPS Priority.

Drilled off the head of the FWD Trailing arm mount bracket, then I drilled up through the body. It is right under the passenger rear seat. About an 1" behind the support tube and 5 1/2" in form the door seam. I have pictures I'll load later. I drilled an 2" hole down into the frame, which allowed me to put a nut on the front bolt and hold it with a socket. The failure of the nut spot welds was due to rust on the bolt above the nut. In the future, I see a 3 options to prevent the spot welds from breaking: 1) drill a small access hole right above the bolt and PB Blast it 2) remove the push pin that holds the plastic door rail cover and point the PB Blaster straw inside and forward and spray lots of oil in and let it set 3) drill the 2" hole and hold the spot welded nut with a socket so it does not break the welds as the bolt is removed. Forster Strut Lift complete I also swap the rear drums over to disk brakes and the hub bearings were shot. Quite a day's worth of work, but it's done.