lmdew

Easy fix, unbolt it from the Trans and pull the support rod out of the rear rubber mount. Grab a good used one from the yard.

With the high mileage if you get $500 for it, take it. Think, if the person who buy is puts a 2.2 in it and takes care of everything else that it needs (Shocks, Brakes, Struts...) and then try's to sell it what would you pay for a 99 with 300K on it? If they get $2500 they would be lucky. If they put $1000 in parts into it and their time they are about breaking even. I use to pay up to $1200 for a 97-99 Outback in otherwise good condition. Now I'm not picking them up unless they are in the $500-600 range. I love working on Subaru's but have to at least break even at $20 an hour for labor.

That's about it. Valve adjustment may be.

Be careful when you pull it. The wire is short and it has to be disconnected as you remove the tail shaft. Also make sure you have removed the speed sensor on the tail shaft.

Nice Turbo. It will be fun. Congrats

Go out and rent your sports car for a week at a time. Get your speeding tickets, pay them off and save the rest. Enjoy the Subaru's you have. Turbo's are a pain to work on and expensive.

Just go to a yard and get a complete mirror. You will have to remove the inner door panel as well to get to the connector. www.car-part.com is a good search tool for full service yards. If you have a self serve yard where you can take tools in and remove the mirror yourself that is the way to go.

Auto? If so you might have torque bind.

First clean and find the source of the leak! - hoses - rear seal - front input shaft seal If you can get it up on a rack, it will be much easier.

Nope Lug spacing is different. The Outback is 5x100 as are most other Subaru's other than the STI & SVX. TireRack.com is always s good place to look up basics on wheels.

Basically, turn the cams to where the valves are closed, no pressure on the cam gear and then you can turn the crank until the index mark on the back tooth of the crank gear lines up with the tick mark under the crank sensor. When you have the crank set, line up the cams. When you compress the belt tensioner do it slowly and so it's in the same position as installed - vertical. Turn everything over by hand several times to check for interference. If it's good, start her up. Then put a dollar bill up to the tail pipe, if it gets sucked back to the pipe, you have a bent valve.

Looks like I'll be stripping 2 or 3 Auto's and one manual transmission to get the aluminum to the scrap yard. If you want any parts, you pay shipping and take care of my time (reasonable offer) and the parts are yours. Larry

If you want some help, let me know. I'm in COS, Larry

Yes, the double exhaust ports. The 96-98 2.2 have a Single port exhaust.

Heating elements lay on top of the foam. Easy to remove and install.

Have nice 2002 Legacy seats in COS.

You rebuilt the engine and now you have higher compression - more breaking effect. I doubt it's the clutch if everything else about the clutch is OK. If the pressure plate was tight up against the flywheel and the centering tool slid in an out with ease it should be fine. I'd look at your drive shaft u-joints and then the rest of the drive line. Using the engine as a brake is not the best thing for it anyway, IMHO That's what brakes are for.

It depends on the trim level. Some did, some did not. Look in the trunk you should be able to tell.

Get the code out of the computer. Clean the oil and then watch where it's coming from - Valve Cover Gaskets is easy There is also a rear cam cover that has an o-ring and is easy to change.

6 one way 1/2 dozen the other. If you have any other engine work that needs to be done, pull the engine. At the very least you want to reseal the rear separator plate on the back of the engine under the flywheel. You can drop the trans, but then the other work is harder.

CO!

All accessories will swap over. You will need the single port y-pipe. Make sure it has the EGR Do t-belt, valve cover seals, rear breather plate, oil pump o-ring and rear cover screws.

There is a snap ring on the end of the axle shaft that goes into the Rear Diff. It has to get popped in. If the lateral links are removed, a good jolt on the rear brake will pop the snap ring in. If the links are hooked up, put a wood block up against the inner CV Joint boot and give it a good hit. I don't like this option as you can damage the boot.

I have a non-EGR 2.2 intake manifold. I'm in Colorado, 80919 You pay shipping and I can strip it down (less weight) and ship it out Monday. Larry

Not very common. What engine is it? I have several manifolds I could send your way. Larry