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Drilled off the head of the FWD Trailing arm mount bracket, then I drilled up through the body. It is right under the passenger rear seat. About an 1" behind the support tube and 5 1/2" in form the door seam. I have pictures I'll load later. I drilled an 2" hole down into the frame, which allowed me to put a nut on the front bolt and hold it with a socket. The failure of the nut spot welds was due to rust on the bolt above the nut. In the future, I see a 3 options to prevent the spot welds from breaking: 1) drill a small access hole right above the bolt and PB Blast it 2) remove the push pin that holds the plastic door rail cover and point the PB Blaster straw inside and forward and spray lots of oil in and let it set 3) drill the 2" hole and hold the spot welded nut with a socket so it does not break the welds as the bolt is removed. Forster Strut Lift complete I also swap the rear drums over to disk brakes and the hub bearings were shot. Quite a day's worth of work, but it's done.

If the timing is off far enough you can bend valves. If you have a cam and crank sensor you might want to swap them one at a time and see if the problem goes away. They usually fail completely and then there is no spark, but I have seen them do strange things. It would be worth hooking up a computer and seeing the signals to the ECU before you pull the intake.

NGK Copper Core plugs and NGK or Subaru Plug wires, hopefully you these. What did the old plugs look like? The MAF can be cleaned and could be the cause of a misfire. Subaru coils are pretty reliable, and usually one side of the coil goes bad causing a misfire on 1&3 or 2&4. What's the mileage? 2.5 DOHC or 2.2 SOHC engine? Please list the codes. Unlikely that the harness is bad and the engine harness goes to everything on the engine. To replace it you would have to pull the intake off.

I was installing the Legacy Outback trailing arm frame mounts today. I had lifted a 98 OBS a while ago, that lift was a good training on installing the trailing arm mounts. I lifted my new 2000 OBS and was careful to remove the trailing arm mount bolts by hand (on the 98 the Milwaukee Impact broke 2 of the 6 spot welded mount nuts off inside the frame). The drivers side went well, but the passenger side front mount bolt broke the spot welds on the nuts. I ran the bolt in an out by hand many times spraying it with kroll, but it still let loose. Drilling the hole inside on Saturday to get a socket on the bolt. So it goes. Larry

I was installing the Legacy Outback trailing arm frame mounts today. I had lifted a 98 OBS a while ago, that lift was a good training on installing the trailing arm mounts. I lifted my new 2000 OBS and was careful to remove the trailing arm mount bolts by hand (on the 98 the Milwaukee Impact broke 2 of the 6 spot welded mount nuts off inside the frame). The drivers side went well, but the passenger side front mount bolt broke the spot welds on the nuts. I ran the bolt in an out by hand many times spraying it with kroll, but it still let loose. Drilling the hole inside on Saturday to get a socket on the bolt. So it goes. Larry

Grab it. Yes you can swap most of the drivetrain, suspension, brakes... Subaru's are like Legos. Or you could fix the bent valves and keep it as is.

My OBDII computer has a tach reading, so wiring or I got another failed tach cluster. Anyone have the FSM wiring from the ECM to gauge cluster? Thanks, Larry

Tried a used Tach from a yard. Same thing. I'm going to hook up my OBDII computer and see if it has a tach reading.

Replaced the Low Beam lamps, it's better. Happy New Year!

Nothing in the engine that I know of looks like that. I'd flush out the pan with some diesel fuel, let it drain well. Fill with new oil and run it for a bit. you could also cut open the old filter and see what's in it. Larry

All the headlights High and Low are working, the fuses are good. The low beams are very dim, are they different from the daytime headlights? Thanks

Sounds like it's time for a new motor. The brushes are most likely worn out.

No easy way to tell if the valves are bent other than putting a new T-belt on. Get it timed correctly with a new belt. Turn the engine over by hand to make sure you have not damaged anything to bad. If it turns free start it up. If it's running well, a valve may still have a slight bend. Go back to the exhaust and put a dollar bill with in a half inch of the exhaust pipe. If it ever sucks back to the exhaust pipe you have a bent valve most likely.

Use some green sotchbright to cleand the cam shaft and OD of the seal.

Yep, I've had good results with both if used correctly. And yes, as I said a tune up is on the schedule as well as a good inspection the engine.

I picked up a 2005 Impreza from a coworker and it's going to my brother's better half. Auto 129K Runs nice, but has a low idle, showing 300 RPM on the gauge in D or N. I plan on running some Seafoam through it Changing the Plugs and see what they look like I've added some lucas fuel conditioner and Shell premium Idle control valve? I'm just starting on this one Thanks, Larry

I pulled the dash today, thinking it might be a loose screw. No such luck, a large circuit board and everything is soldered in. Any ideas other than getting a replacement cluster? I did not see any problems with the circuits. Everything but the Tach works. Thanks, Larry

They are rubber gaskets, installed dry. Make sure you use a 6 point socket or wrench. Some of the bolts are a bugger to get out. Every once in awhile I have to drop the exhaust and jack the engine to get the back bolts if they were rounded off or very tight. Amazon, Felpro kits are pretty good and priced right. If the plugs have not been done in awhile, it's a good time to put in a new set of NKG copper core plugs and wires if you need them. Subaru or NGK on the wires as well.

If you need a replacement engine go with a 95 2.2 with ERG. Plug and Play for the most part.

Emily, you and Rick and the rest of the Gang at CCR are the best. Thanks for taking the time to post to the USMB, I know you have a lot going on. Larry

Thanks, Larry

No, it was not the usual things. The Dash light ABS was on. If it comes back, I'll dig under the dash and find the main power relay - key on, power on relay. Thanks, Larry

Yep, motor is plug and play. Save the motor and any other good parts you may want. Scrap the rest about $250 or so for the weight of the metal.

A 99 Legacy Outback 2.2 swap I did awhile back, started draining the Battery. The new owner went to Autozone and they sold him an Alt. He also got a new Walmart battery. Power was still draining, the ABS light .... I removed the Autozone Alt and installed a Subaru Alt. I charged the Battery It started and stopped just fine many times. All power was removed each time I shut it off. I think the main relay may have been sticking, all though I've never seen that before. I looked under the dash, lower panel removed. I did not see the relays, where are they on a 99? Thanks Larry

I got a 2003 that sounded like a bad rod knock and it was the idler gear hitting the water pump. The inner and outer race if the toothed Idler were there but no ball bearings. Worst one I've seen that was still running.