lmdew

Yep, works great. I've used a spare Brake vacuum line, just make sure the check valve allows the EGR to pull air. Ace Hardware, Plastic hose barb Tee with a brass hose barb reducer screwed into it. Works Great

Yep, I did the same thing years ago. I love the ability to quickly bleed and flush the brake system. I use Quick disconnect air fittings on my. They seal fluid as well. Nice Post.

I've pulled them together, its a pain. Auto's are really bad.

I don't think the 99 Legacy has the plug built in. I just added a hitch to the better half's 2006 Forester and it had the pigtail on the passenger side in the floor. Easy. I used http://www.etrailer.com/ for the Drawtight hitch and wiring. Easy and Fast and a price that could not be beat. Older Legacy's I've seen the tail lights tapped into behind the lights. I'm not a fan of the crimp on wire taps but that is what I see the most.

Spend even less. A good used Subaru with a 95-99 2.2 motor will last forever. Put them in an Auto as they are learning to drive. Solid car, they will most likely dent it anyway. No Torque bind, shifts well. Clean fluids and good brakes and tires.

1+ Super Rupair. Nothing but good reports on them.

With good tires the Subaru will crawl right out or through just about anything.

Runs great, no knocks or valve noise. Down side, it's still using oil. It must be the rings. Looks like a core engine or will be soon. Thanks, Larry

Have you checked the shift shaft going into the trans? Is it moving through all the gears?

I have a couple good CATS in Colorado that would bolt right in.

Installed new felpro valve guide seals. Maybe one of them was hanging up a valve slightly. It ran great to day. I ran it down the road for a mile or so. Hope the Subaru god is with me. Larry

Neutral switch on the trans tells the ECU when the trans is in between gears. The wires come to the top of the trans right behind the engine so it's easy to check with a meter.

Give Joel a call or email. http://www.greensyncro.com/ Vanagon Sales - Parts - Upgrades - Restoration - Engine Conversions Working only on 1982-1991 Vanagons, Syncros and Westfalias. Located in Manitou Springs, near Colorado Springs, CO Content copyright 2016. GREENSYNCRO.COM. All rights reserved. Contact us at 719-213-7604, or manitousyncro@gmail.com thanks! I have a ecu from a 2002 Subaru Legacy, $30 shipped.

Sunday, I installed the motor. It started and ran great for about 20 minutes, and then started knocking, sounded like a rod knock. Shut it off, it was the end of the day. Strange it ran just like a Subaru should for 20 min. I had pulled the coil plug and cranked it to get oil through the engine before starting it and then when I did hook the coil up it started and ran great. Monday - Thinking one of the valve keepers may have come off, I pulled the fans, accessory belts and valve covers so I could check the valve keepers and crank it over by hand. - all valve keepers and valve train looked good - I pulled the plugs and turned it over by hand. About every 2 or 3 turn as #1 came up on compression the crank would lock up. I did not force it but it would not turn in the normal rotation with light pressure on my 1/2" ratchet. I'd back up the crank a 1/4 turn and then it would crank right through a couple more rotations of the crank. - Just putting my thumb in the plug tube, all cylinder have compression. When I put the plugs back in, one at a time compression felt good as I turned the engine over. - Everything back together and it's turning over fine, not locking up - I get it pointed out the back of work to drive it to the parking lot. - I start it, it's knocking - A minute or so later, the knock turns into what sounds like valve tick - Another couple of minutes and the tick is gone, it's running fine. - Park it for the night Any ideas what could have caused the Knock, locked up crank when turned by hand and then it goes away? Very strange. Thanks, Larry

Changed the Oil Pan return tube o-ring seal and the Valve Guide Seals. Some said it could not be done and I would not opt to do it again, but I was able to change the valve guide seals without pulling the heads. Installed the Timing belt so I could rotate the cams until there was no tension on the valves. Removed both sets of Rocker Arms Removed the Plugs Put the piston at BDC and put rope down the plug hole to fill they cylinder Rotated the crank to bring the piston up to compress the rope and hold the valve up Used a valve spring removal tool, the one that catches the keepers to remove the valve springs Used a Plug Wire Pliers to remove the old valve guide seals Installed and seated new valve guide seals Now the hard part, compressing the springs and getting the keepers in: I used a tool sold for this purpose, but it was too large for the Subaru Valves. I turned down the pin on the lathe. It worked about 50% of the time. When it didn't work, one Keeper was in the other was out. The last time I did valve with the heads off, I had made a valve spring compressor out of PVC Pipe. A 1 1/2 Tee with a 3/4" piece of PVC about 8" long works well. You can cut a 1/2" notch out of the end that will allow you to insert the keeper while you compress the spring. Motor in on my next free day, I hope this has solved the oil consumption issue. Larry

Thanks for all the extra work, I'm sure it will help another member out there.

Changed the tail shaft speed sensor, I shifted well and no power light blinking. The owner drove it home, about 30 miles, no problem. The next day, the blinking power light and shifting problems were back. He put in the FWD fuse and it shifts well but the power light is still blinking. I have not had time to pull the codes yet. Ideas?

They should be able to test the health of the battery, put it on a Load Tester. I doubt it's the ECU. Are you getting spark? If you put a little fuel down the Intake and then try to start it does it start and run for a bit? Does it turn over by hand and feel normal?

I have the cam gear for you. $10 + 5 for shipping. Which side do you need? Driver's side or Passenger Side?

Nope, not much space down there and when you are going down the road at 70 mph or so any fluid is going to blow everywhere. - Clean the engine and cross member - Find and Fix the leak It will take several weeks for the old oil to burn off the exhaust.

Yes they are a pain, just did both a front and rear window on a friends 99 Legacy GT. As others have said, the window will tilt in and down in the front and you can guide the rollers past the door. I pull the 3 12mm nuts for the rear guide and get it out of the way. With the window now inside the door and the front guide in the rail, you can guide the real rail onto the rear bearing and up and into the 3 mounts holes. Put the 12mm nuts on lightly. Mount the window to the lower motor guide rail with the 2, 10mm nuts. Put all hardware back on and sung them up. Test and adjust the window as necessary then tighten everything up. Put the door panel back on and grab a cold one or two.

www.car-part.com Great source and place of info.

I could have you in a great OBS from Rust Free Colorado for that or much less. I had a 98 OBS with 330K on it when i sold it for $1800 and it's still going strong. I picked up a 2000 OBS that needed engine work for $600 and its doing great. I lifted both my OBS with Forster struts and I like the ride and the look. Pretty easy to do. I have a friend in Sullivan WI, who I set up his Mom with a 98 OBS. If you want to take it for a test drive I'm sure he'd let you. The 95-99 2.2 are pretty rock solid. The newer 2.5 SOHC engines have a slight HG issue, but they leak externally so it's easy to spot and repair. As long as you keep oil and coolant full, you can run them leaking for years. I get 28-30 MPG on my OBS, Timing belt at 105K the first time and I like to do them at 80 to 100K after that. Use NGK copper plugs and wires. Not much else.

I've done it this way for years. Works great. It usually takes about 3 gallons of fluid for the trans coolant fluid to come out bright red instead of dirty. Easy and little work.

I've always had good luck with used hubs and bearings. I'm in CO where they are pretty rust free. www.car-part.com is a good source. You can get a good used hub and bolt it in with a lot less work than changing the bearing.