lmdew

I'd get a good look at your's, may be a picture. www.car-part.com from a rust free state will be much less. If your in no rush, I could get you one from Colorado for about 45 shipped.

X2 on Emily's points. a 2.2 swap is the way to go.

I've used the Grip Force Kits off of Ebay and have been happy. Other important things have been covered. Larry

Yes, I'd grab the E-brake cables as well and the brake lines coming off the body.

You can put a threaded insert in the lower starter hole and put a bolt in.

Sometimes it's just the socket contacts and bulb. I'd pull them and make sure you have good contact. You could also try the parking light switch on top of the steering column and see if they work.

Back probed the plug 11.5 volts on both sided of the control coil, = missing ground 11.5 volts on the input side of the fuel pump switched contact. I hit the yard today and got a couple of Subaru fuel pump relays, newer ones and plug one in. It started right up. Hopefully it is a solid fix. I believe the relay did it. 2nd day in a row with many start and stop cycles, has worked each time.

When it overheats, look for bubbles in the overflow tank and check and see if the heat is blowing cold. These are two signs of HG failure. HG can hide and usually happen under heavy loads at first. Are the fans coming on with higher temps?

Yep, Load, Ground, Power. I"m going to get my meter out today and take some voltage readings under load. I also remembered the PO had bypassed the ignition SW with 3 on off switched which I removed and put back on an Subaru Ignition SW so I'll double check that as well. The connector looks clean and contacts are in good condition. Thanks Larry

I know from previous post the relay ground is controlled by the computer. This one is strange works fine some times and others not. Well, I thought I had it, I swapped the heater fan relay and fuel pump relay and the fuel pump worked just fine yesterday. I went to start it this morning and it would not start. I dropped the kick panel, Computer and just moved the relay and it started and ran fine for 3 hours. I stopped for gas about an hour into the trip and it started right back up. Now sitting in the driveway for a while, I was cleaning it and then went to start it, no joy. I removed and jumped the relay and it runs fine. Wiring or Computer? Anyone have the wiring manual or a good way to check this? Looks like you'd have to drop the complete dash out to really get at all the wiring. Thanks, Larry

Pretty good deal if they are in good condition. What's it worth to you is always the qualifier!

Oil or coolant comes out of the engine at the HG. You can see it leaking at the HG splitline. Different from Internal leaks of the 96-98 DOCH engines.

Save time and money, drop in a good used 2.2

The outside handle is most likely not all the way in. Push the release handle in and then try your locks. The outside handle mount rusts and restricts the movement of the release handle, jamming up the works.

You need to find the source of the noise. Changing the length of the strut put your CV joints in a new spot, but if they were in good condition that should be OK. Did you make sure the top strut mount was tight? I've swapped struts where you need a thick washer on top of the strut mount to take up the added length of the top strut mount. Otherwise the nut runs out of threads and you still have movement of the top strut mount plate.

6 point socket vise grips pipe wrench die grinder, cut the nut weld a wrench on the nut cutting tourch You could also pull the 3 bolts that hold the bracket to the body as thats the part you need to change anyway.

This worked on my 98 Outback now in IN, instead of rust free CO. "try pushing the latch lever handle (the part your fingers pull on) try pushing it the other direction and then unlocking the door with the electric locks or the key. then squeeze and pull to open as usual."

Year Model Engine

Junk yard will be fine. I've had lots of them fail, but never had one catch on fire. PS when your working on electrical stuff, its always a good idea to disconnect the negative lead from the battery.

Easy way is to pull the complete bumper and then pull the cover. A junk yard trial run is usually a good use of time: - Remove the mud flaps - Remove the 10 mm nuts holding the front side of the bumper to the body (2 of them I think) - Unplug the plate light connectors under the spare tire cover - Remove the 2 19mm bolts on each side, accessed through the cargo area on each side of the flip up spare tire cover and under the plastic covers on the body. - Slide the bumper back and off

I'd remove the alarm. I've seen more problems with them then the solve. Look at the wiring, they usually only splice into a couple. I you can remove it and restore the factory wiring I bet it solves your problem.

Sounds like a bad battery or cable corrosion. The Alarm started working, cause the battery went dead. There should be a small reset button under the dash coming off the alarm box, two brown wires going to an 1/8' button switch. Put the key in, turn it on and then press and hold the button.

It's an oring type seal that goes between the pump and the block. Make sure you torque and locktite the backing plate screws. Gray RTV is all you need to seal it to the block.

Flasher/blinkers go through the emergency flasher switch on the center of the dash. Did someone change the radio? If so they may have not plugged the connector back in.

T-belt, idler pulleys, cam and crank seal and reseal the oil pump all due at 105K It's about $250 in parts + labor. The Gates Kits on amazon are good. You can go to a Subaru Dealer and have them pull the maintenance records for any work that has been done at a dealer and if you register the VIN with them in your name they will send you maintenance reminders.