lmdew
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Everything posted by lmdew
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If you have a small hand, pull the lower dash panel and the reach up in back of the dash. You will find the speedo cable coming through the firewall and it just pushes onto the speedo on the dash. The lack of your speedo working is most likely the cause of your CEL. -
That's the knock sensor. Make sure it's clocked so it's not hitting the block where the wire comes out of it.
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No easy way other than insert a tee into the fuel line between the filter and engine. I guess you could build on you could cap off or plug. Good video on Fuel Pressure Regulators and how things work:
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Since it's a 93 you are better off on the breather as it's aluminum instead of plastic. They are sealed with RTV. Anytime I have the rear face of the engine open, it's wise to reseal it. If you were not leaking oil before, you are most likely good.
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The 93 has a mechanical Speedo, so the cable is most likely not properly engaged. Did you drop the trans or pull the engine to get to the clutch? The wire you are seeing may be the ground wire which hooks up to the firewall by the tilt stopper for the engine. Did you seal the rear baffle breather plate while you were in there?
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Great for all knowledge levels. https://www.youtube.com/user/bivideo7/videos Larry
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Old style tensioner can be swapped over as well. Just unbolt the casting from the block and move it all over.
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2007 CO low mileage Outback; http://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/4860517473.html
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I'd also check the trans connectors to make sure they are good and clean and fully seated.
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96-99 Outback with a 95 2.2 in it. I love the Standards, but Autos are good to as long as they have been maintained.
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Pick up a 98-99 Outback with a band 2.5 DOHC engine and drop in a good 95 2.2. Drive it for ever, easy to work on, save the extra $7,000 for tires and normal Maintenance. Buy a rust free CO car. Contact Shawn, he can set you up.
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I've considered them a bunch but compared to the 98 Outback with a 95 2.2 its got me saying no I don't need all that stuff under the hood.
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Pretty easy to change and I've found a bunch at the yards with a key in them. - Pull the covers - Drill the two bolts heads off from the top - Unplug the electrical connectors You can use normal 12mm bolts to install it. Re key the door locks if you want them to match.
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Get a Subaru rear main and the new metal breather plate. take a tube of gray RTV to seal the breather.
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Easy, but most yards cut the cat's out as they can not sell them. If you are lucky you may find one that still has the fwd flange on it, otherwise you will have to have one welded on. You might also be able to get one from someone parting out a car. 14mm nuts on the front exhaust 14mm and 12mm on the joints Rubber donuts that hold the exhaust up. Takes about 10 minutes to drop the complete exhaust if your not fighting rust.
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Dash lights get their ground through the radio, it's the last item in the circuit. If you remove the ground, there is voltage sitting at the end of the wire looking for a ground! Find the factory wiring and you will see it.
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MAF Sensor, they have MAF cleaner spray at Auto Parts Stores IAC - Grab a can of Seafoam and pour 1/3 of the can into the large 1" tube going to the Idle Air Control IAC Valve. Let it sit for about 30 minutes and then start it up. Expect smoke as the seafoam will be sucked into the cylinders.
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The TPS is adjustable but I doubt that is your problem. Start with he simple stuff: - Copper core plugs NGK, how old are your plugs? - Clean the IAC, it controls the idle speed - New NGK or Subaru Plug wires - New Air Filter, & clean the MAF - New fuel Filter Do as necessary to bring your maintenance up to date. No accelerator pump.
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Yes, comtec HG they have one for the franken motor. I would not rule out the 2.2, as they do fine.
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I doubt it's the CAT. You have to think, why does it only happen when I back up? I'd make sure you don't have anything stuck to the driveline that may be getting on the exhaust. Make sure all the CV joint boots are good.
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Could be bad plug wires or cam or crank sensor wires are bad. You can pop the hood and spray some water on the plug wires and then have someone try to start it while you watch.
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Most of the time most wear is in the damper up front. If you slide a couple of straight slot screwdrivers behind the crank gear (avoid the trigger teeth) you will most likely be able to slide it off. Replace the key, replace the worn damper and torque to 125 ft lbs. If it won't come off, you may get by with just torque.
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About 5" across. The bracket mount points are much less. I found a pair on Ebay a few years ago that I mounted with the stock bracket. They worked pretty well.
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Aftermarket Security System?
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Have your anti freeze checked to make sure it will handle the cold temps.
