lmdew
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Everything posted by lmdew
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It's the larger temp sensor on the water manifold under the intake. look down on the back passenger side of the intake and you will see the two sensors. One is for the Dash, the other goes to the ECU. The relays in the engine fuse box will turn them on and off. Why, what's up? -
Only thing that is on top is the Oil Pressure Sender at the front under the alternator. Oil will travel.
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You have to remove the aluminum retainer that holds the seal. Clean the trans as well as you can Soak the retainer with PB blaster for a few days. Remove the retainer bolt and pin punch the trans and retainer for reference Tighten the retainer, hand tight until it stops. pin Punch a second mark. Remove the retainer, count the revelutions if you want Replace the Seal Replace the o-ring Lube both Screw the retainer in hand tight (counting turns if you want) back off to the alignment marks Install the locking plate. Done
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I've put different color hoods on cars and some people actually love them, as they can always find their car in the crowed parking lot!
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Put a little fuel in the throttle an try it. You'll know if its fuel or spark.
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Anyone want to meet up at the Laurelwood Public House and Brewery, Workhorse, talk Subaru's. I'm in town this week 27th - 3rd. Shoot me a PM with a contact #. Larry
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Should be OK. I know others have said they did it.
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Can we pin this Electrical Training somewhere? Starter problems, watch this: Want more great Electrical Training, watch these: https://www.youtube.com/user/bivideo7/videos
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Sounds like the temp sensor was not plugged in or was damaged. There are two of them, one for the computer and one for the dash.
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If you have a small hand, pull the lower dash panel and the reach up in back of the dash. You will find the speedo cable coming through the firewall and it just pushes onto the speedo on the dash. The lack of your speedo working is most likely the cause of your CEL.
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That's the knock sensor. Make sure it's clocked so it's not hitting the block where the wire comes out of it.
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No easy way other than insert a tee into the fuel line between the filter and engine. I guess you could build on you could cap off or plug. Good video on Fuel Pressure Regulators and how things work:
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Since it's a 93 you are better off on the breather as it's aluminum instead of plastic. They are sealed with RTV. Anytime I have the rear face of the engine open, it's wise to reseal it. If you were not leaking oil before, you are most likely good.
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The 93 has a mechanical Speedo, so the cable is most likely not properly engaged. Did you drop the trans or pull the engine to get to the clutch? The wire you are seeing may be the ground wire which hooks up to the firewall by the tilt stopper for the engine. Did you seal the rear baffle breather plate while you were in there?
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Great for all knowledge levels. https://www.youtube.com/user/bivideo7/videos Larry
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Old style tensioner can be swapped over as well. Just unbolt the casting from the block and move it all over.
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2007 CO low mileage Outback; http://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/4860517473.html
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I'd also check the trans connectors to make sure they are good and clean and fully seated.
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96-99 Outback with a 95 2.2 in it. I love the Standards, but Autos are good to as long as they have been maintained.
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Pick up a 98-99 Outback with a band 2.5 DOHC engine and drop in a good 95 2.2. Drive it for ever, easy to work on, save the extra $7,000 for tires and normal Maintenance. Buy a rust free CO car. Contact Shawn, he can set you up.
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I've considered them a bunch but compared to the 98 Outback with a 95 2.2 its got me saying no I don't need all that stuff under the hood.
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Pretty easy to change and I've found a bunch at the yards with a key in them. - Pull the covers - Drill the two bolts heads off from the top - Unplug the electrical connectors You can use normal 12mm bolts to install it. Re key the door locks if you want them to match.
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Get a Subaru rear main and the new metal breather plate. take a tube of gray RTV to seal the breather.
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Easy, but most yards cut the cat's out as they can not sell them. If you are lucky you may find one that still has the fwd flange on it, otherwise you will have to have one welded on. You might also be able to get one from someone parting out a car. 14mm nuts on the front exhaust 14mm and 12mm on the joints Rubber donuts that hold the exhaust up. Takes about 10 minutes to drop the complete exhaust if your not fighting rust.
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Dash lights get their ground through the radio, it's the last item in the circuit. If you remove the ground, there is voltage sitting at the end of the wire looking for a ground! Find the factory wiring and you will see it.
