lmdew

Do the 2.2 swap with a good used engine and Save! www.car-part.com you can search the yards. UPAP - You pull the used eng $250 Rebuild your engine, he does a good job - $1500 http://rockies.craigslist.org/pts/4819185985.html

Phone Call, Email and PM, no response yet. Anyone heard from Shawn? I take it he's out on Christmas/Happy New Year. Man he deserves a Holiday.

Short drives, will kill the battery, as it never fully charges. High draw when you start and then a short drive never charges the battery fully. Check the voltage when running to make sure it's charging properly.

yes, you might just try cleaning and drying out the connector. Only 1 10mm bolt to change the sensor.

Not running, $500 - $1000 depending on condition. Most likely you bent valves at a minimum. Sell if you can, unless you can do the work yourself.

Don't drive it until it's fixed, you'll cause more damage!

Do you have a sun roof? Could be a drain is clogged. But the above advice is great!

As a few have recommended, you may want to: Check the fluid level Change the fluid and check for metal in the fluid Change the external filter I doubt it will just fail without getting worst first. Shift manually to prevent the hard shocks to the trans and driveline.

I'd jack up the front end and see if you can rotate the wheel while someone holds the other. You could have a bad cv joint, totally disconnected.

Check the rear driveshaft front U-joint! Most frequent failure.

Auto into Auto Trans Manual into Manual Trans

Cam or crank sensor. Have you checked the CEL?

Yes a 2.2 swap. Find a good Subaru Mechanic and get a low mileage engine - www.car-parts.com. My wife's 98 5sp Outback has been working fine for years with the 2.2. I haul other Subarus on a dolly with it. 24-28 mpg.

How old is the gas in the tank? If you do not drive this Subaru very often, you may just have old gas with more moisture collected in it. You can do diagnostics on the car, you have to read up on it. Plug the green connector together under the dash and meet the drive requirements. The IAC controls the idle The TPS sends the shift down signal to the trans. I'd get at least a full tank or two on 91 Octane gas through it with some Sea Foam treatment before you start changing parts. Subaru or NGK Plug wires Copper core NGK Plugs would be the recommended parts.

Throttle Cables, loosen the 2 12mm nuts, run the back one completely off until you can slide it out of the bracket. You can now bring the cable around to line it up with the slot in the throttle cam and remove them. There is a metal tab on the bottom of the cam that you have to slide the cable past. Yes, you can swap the lines, it's pretty time consuming as you need the valves associated with the system as well as the electrical harness. It can all be swapped, just make sure you route the harness the same as there is not much room between the engine and the harness when you bolt the intake back up.

Do you have the CEL Codes? That will help. I'd check all the grounds to make sure they are good and battery connections are good. Subaru Alt? If not you may want a OEM part. Does it start fine after your drive or is the battery dead?

I'd try adjusting the Inhibit SW/shift cable. I have an Outback that has a Forester trans installed that is doing the drop into N when you get on the gas hard. Drive easy and it works fine. Shift manually and it works fine.

I'd check the linkage adjustment. Does it do it if you manually shift it, say 1st, 2nd, 3rd. Try leaving it in 3rd.

I'd just hit one of the UPAP yards and pull one. If it's not it you can take it back for credit.

It's a Great Form we have in the USMB. Merry Christmas to you All Larry

He said: It was towed about seven miles at 40mph

Most Subaru coil packs fire 2 plugs, 1&3 or 2&4. Did you try swapping plug wires? Did you use Subaru or NGK Wires? Copper Core Plugs? NGK

Sometimes folks over tighten the hose clamp and crack the plastic.

3 screws hold it in. Electrical connector. You will have more access if you drop the glove box, 2 Screws Remove the Electrical Connector Remove the 3 screws Pull it down. If you have a used fan, you can plug in the connector before removing the old one to make sure it's not an electrical issue.

Swapped the coil. problem solved.