lmdew

There should be a c-clip on the cable that goes against the clip down on the bottom support. Passenger side. up under the dash. Its about 3" form the linkage.

Put a couple of jumper wires on the fuel pump plug so you can watch voltage as it runs. Running for a few seconds when the key is on and then turning off is normal. You may also want to tee in a pressure gauge in the engine fuel line to watch the pressure. I've seen many pumps work on the start cycle but then fail to run all the time.

Any recent maintenance in the area? Oil pressure sw up top will leak down into the TB cover. PS pump can do the same.

I'd clear the codes and see what comes back.

Tirerack is good and you can use their price to make sure the Local shop is giving you a reasonable deal.

Check the Grounds Could be a MAF sensor TPS causing a buzzing sound is normal, from what I've experienced.

As long as the battery has been disconnected for awhile, Airbags will be OK Any Torx set should be fine. You can just drop the steering wheel down if you want, no need to remove the column. I'd hit the Junk Yard and pull a heater core and any lights you want. Cheaper and you get to practice on a car you don't care much about.

What did the plugs look like when you pulled them? NGK copper core plugs and NGK or Subaru plug wires? It could be a fuel injector. Plug condition should help you out.

Yes the piston has to come all the way out. Put the new seal over the piston, not in the grove but down by the bottom end of the piston. Extend the seal and work it into the caliper grove. once in push the piston in. I've also had luck putting the seal into the caliper and then using low pressure air to pop the seal up onto the piston.

When you close the drivers door you have to hold the outter handle up, or it will unlock the door.

reseal Oil Seperator, Subaru metal ones are $12 0r so. locktite oil pump rear cover plate, new o-ring & reseal Cam & crank Seals New ngk plugs New valve cover gaskets

Get a Subaru PCV

Check the voltage under load! Both leads to the battery, check Voltage Have some one try to start, check Voltage, you should see a voltage drop under load Move the positive lead to the Starter terminal, check voltage Have someone try to start the car, what's the voltage drop Move to the positive going to the starter motor, down stream of the starter contacts - repeat. Record the voltage readings, this will tell you where the problem lies. Some great electrical training at: www.brighterideas.com Load Pro tool is great, but if you can check the system loaded and connected you can get by without the Load Pro.

Usually a pretty minor fix, Gas fill Pipe or Evap canister hose. pip

It's a good idea to keep the AC working all year long so the seals don't dry out.

Yep, Works! Wife's 98 Outback would not release or unlock. I could hear the lock cycling, but no joy. Read this, had her push the handle in and cycle the Locks, Rear Hatch Opened like Normal. THANKS USMB!

If you are set on the Defrost/windshield and heat, yes it's normal.

Good strap wrench, then take your ratchet & 6 point socket, put it on and hit the ratchet handle with a heavy hammer. If the flexplate is still on you can use it to lock up the crank. If option 1 or 2 does not work, you can pull a plug and stuff a bunch of rope down the plug hole to lock the cylinder as the piston comes up against the rope.

I'd get underneath and check the shifter linkage. you might also have someone rock the car while you try to free the shifter.

After the new Subaru T-Stat is installed make sure the coolant is properly filled and system burped.

Its a bunch of work, but your best bet is to hit the yard and grab a good box. Replace the entire thing.

Flex Plate. 2.2 and 2.5 are different OD's but both will bolt up to the crank.

Yes it will bolt right up and plug in and run. If the EGR is not the same the CEL will come on, but you can work around that.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/150078-2005-outback-120k-6000-co/ $6000 HEAD Gasket leaks Tire wear Trans Fluid

Does your AT Temp light flash 16 times after you start the car? You might have Torque Bind. Have to ask yourself what caused the diff to fail? Once you drop out the Diff, you will see a 2 letter/number code painted in white on top of the housing. That gives you the ratio. You can also use the Trans # to get the ratio. Make sure the front and rear Diff's have the same ratio.