lmdew

I have spare Diamond coils if you need one.

They can be polished out. Shops do this for about $100. The lenses are glued to the back shell so while it's possible I doubt you'd get it done.

That would do it. It's going to be replaced by a 2.2. It may be a good core for someone, but there was lots of water in the oil.

The airbox rubber mount is a 10mm.

Yes the turbo engines are built a little tougher to handle the boost.

I picked up a 97 Outback 2.5 DOHC and it has a couple of strange things, the water pump outlet is on the front instead of the bottom and there was a bracket for a turbo mount on the passenger rear head. Possible Turbo Block? Strange.

Yes, you might also consider getting the foam from a lightly used passenger side. They swap across pretty well.

Just look in the overflow tank. Black Oily stuff means HG are gone or going. Better off flying back and selling the car there. It's a long way TX to WA.

You seat belts should be covered under warranty unless the retract was faulty. Many of the belts have to be in the proper position to release.

You will have a few issues. These have been addressed in the past. Search for the swap. You should find my post. Larry

www.brighterideas.com Your meter can lie to you if you do not check the voltage under load. Larry

If it is your alternator, go to Subaru as they have the alternators prices right as there was a rebuild program on them a few years ago. Worth checking.

Look at the tire sidewall, it will have the tire size. They look like the standard 15" wheels found on the 99 Legacys

Or Axle popped out of the rear diff. If they are out by a 1/2" the diff will just spin but no power.

I usually end up taking them to the dealer and matching them. Even the dealer books are not so good.

Possible but hard. With the long studs, it's possible to pull the drive shaft remove all of the bolts and nuts holding the trans to the engine and frame and then slide it back. Your are now working in a 2 - 3 inch gap. If it drops down off the studs, it will hit the cross member of drop all the way to the ground. Better just to pull the engine or trans I think.

That's a Great Deal! Wish I'd find a few like that!

So after all of that, what did it cost you? Just money invested as if we consider all of your time the bill would be crazy.

Before you buy anything, figure out what has failed! - Check the T-Belt and pulleys. You have to pull the front covers but you can do that by removing the radiator fans, leaving the radiator installed with no loss of coolant. - Check the Oil Filter for Metal Rule out the simple things first and if you need an engine, get a used 95 2.2 with EGR. It's a plug and play swap for the most part.

I have a stock Subaru Sub, $45 shipped. Larry

I think I'd just hit one of the You Pull and Pay yard and save $400. Subaru driveshafts don't fail very often. I've picked up a few cars that have lost the front U-joint and tore up the trans tail shaft but have always just put a stock one back in.

Yes, that blows. I always like to get engines and trans from cars that were hit good. They way you know they were on the road when they went down.

The ECU needs to meet the logic requirements for the specific code so getting codes at different mileage, engine cycles, drive times is not that strange. Clean the IAC Clean the MAF Make sure your gas cap is on tight and all vacuum lines are hooked up correctly.

Had a used engine that had a bad injector. Rough idle. Fuel Pressure?

When did you clear the codes? Some of the emissions folks check for the monitors and if you have just cleared the CEL you won't have enough miles on the car to be OK with the monitors.