hush777

Bump Hush

Working on this car for a friend, The right turn signal goes nuts, figured it was the flasher under the dash..... Noise for it is coming from the turnsignal cam assembly in the steering column just behind the steering wheel. Is this where the flasher is located in this one.... Looked in the normal place under the dash and nothing there. Also the emergency flasher causes this area to click also..... Hush

JF2AN3B1HE483773 is the number, Just has some funny coloring (faded on one side but not all of the side) that I want to check out the history of. Thanks Hush

Anyone have a picture of this? I am getting the old lady's wagon back together and have missplaced it. Don't have another auto around. And I can't compare it with my standard. :-\ Hush PS. 87 gl-10 turbo wagon auto

The Sub was a 77 I think the panel van was a lot older. Hush

I used a 77 wagon to pull a ford panel van up a 7% grade 5 miles once. used 4 wheel drive all the way. Didn't have low range. A panel van is about the size of a UPS delivery truck not a e-150 ford van. Some people were living in it and needed a place to work on it so I drug it to my house. Not sure of the weight. Hush PS I was impressed

Still getting leaking but it wasn't dark yet so I can't say where for sure. Was leaking all over the place though. Hush

Checked the grounds at the engine, body and starter mounting. All looks good. New cap and rotor and still the same. Left him with a couple coils to try. Still baffled by this one. New plug wires were autozone, second set were bosch. Hush

My step son got a 85 wagon to do some work on and knowing my history with subarus called and asked for assistance, I stopped by after dark last nite and he was showing me what it did. Carb-ed wagon, would not pick up from an idle.... just sputtered a bit then got going. While he was showing me this, I did it and he noticed spark jumping around at the cap, at the plug boots and along the length of the plug wires, any where that they were need metal..... O.K. need new cap, rotor, wires and plugs. Got it all today and found out the cap and rotor aren't the right ones... (my parts guy didn't here me when I said that I needed ND not hitachi), so in go the plugs (bosch platinum) and on go the wires...... stopped back this evening and same damn thing...... Spark jumping all over the place..... OK now this is not making any sense.... I had gotten a new set of Bosch plug wires for my gl-10 so I grabbed them and we threw them on...... Same thing Spark all over the place..... He is going to get a cap and rotor tommorow to eliminate any spark jumping inside the cap.... but I don't think that is it. Any one ever have this problem?? Any thoughts, short of a .45 caliber solution? Hush

Check the wire that goes to the solenoid on the side of the carb. IT is a fuel cutoff that only allows fuel through the carb when there is power there. It is about an inch (round) by and inch and a half with 1 wire going to it. Hush

I have very good luck going to NAPA for adapters and tee's. Just take your old sensor and the fittings for your new guage down there and they will get you all set up. Hush

I ran mine up next to the hood release cable. Lots of rubber for insulation there. Hush

I replaced the sender for the dash guage with one and then thought about having the dash guage show me the temp in the pass head through the old coolant pipe outlet (I changed the routing for the turbo on mine to come from the drivers head (cooler) instead of the pass head (hotter). but haven't had a chance to get the right adapters to do it. Hush

91 Loyale with 310,000 engine just came out for the first time for a rebuild. Looking for another 300k+ 97 Impreza outback sport with 306,000+ all original also. Engine has had a reseal. Paid $100 for the loyale and $500 for the impreza. Hush

mailto:mizpah@paulbunyan.net is their email. Give them a holler. 1-218 897-5922 is their phone # Hush

They are pretty cheap down at Bow-Wow Chris. Call and talk to Paul, tell him I sent you. I am rebuilding a turbo wagon for my old lady and am getting a new one for it, and also got rebuilt HLA's for it from mizpah precision for it. $5.75 each if you get them just shipped to you. $4 if you send them a core. http://www.mizpahprecision.com/ Hush

This is the way I am going helping my oldest renew his car (He wants to get another 300,000 miles from a motor). Went to a local machine shop and dropped off the heads from a 86 carbed engine. They are rebuilding them for $170. You said you have a set so that would not be an included cost. The gent at the machine shop said that he would clean the block, check it and hone the cylinders for around $35. Checked the crank with a micrometer and it says that standard will do. (Engine had 212,000 on it or so the body said, might have been a jdm replacement, as the bearings so no were at all). Machine shop guy says gaskets, bearing (rod and mains) and rings for $193. Saw on ebay this kit. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7982628316&category=33620 for $171 shipped, and they will match your crank if you have to get it turned for oversized. Will go to my local parts house (Bow-wow) in Boise and get the timing belts and new tensioners and idler for around $85. Did most of this on my turbo wagon (new gaskets, redid the heads myself) and it is going strong with 167,000, and has used 1/4 quart of oil in 2100 miles. The carbed heads are the same as the SPFI ones just use the SPFI cams and housings for best results. Hush

If you really don't want the power accesories then look at a local junkyard and find a 85-86 without them. The switches are a real pain in the butt and I have had to pull most of the ones that have been in cars that I have gotten apart and clean them. If you would be willing to travel I have a set of all 4 doors for a white wagon without the power stuff that you could have cheap! ($10 each). It would be alot more if I had to figure out a way to ship them.... Hush

The boulder walked away...... Hush

Just an update on the impreza. Posting two pics one of the damage from the boulder and then of when the repairs are done. New seals in the engine and new body parts. bumper, radiator, some timing covers, new head light and front fender and a bunch of fix the frame stuff. Hush

About 2 miles up the road. Gonna be doing a roof up there soon, the metal is being delivered thurs. Hush

MM 84 on 21 Hush

In idaho and where I live in Boise County (south of CDL) you need to have a sherrif or the local DMV verify the vin on the car and title to do the registration. In Boise County there are no smog checks, no emmisions of any kind and registration is about $50 for a car that was purchased for $100 ($6.00 tax) tax is the same through out the state so add 6 for each $100. Hush

I didn't notice anywhere in your post if you mentioned if your new car was carbed or SPFI? Carbed would mean a bad accelerator pump, SPFI would be a throttle position sensor. Is your check engine light on? (SPFI only)... Does it come on when you turn the key on?? Things to think about. Call if you have questions, or need parts.... P.S. I was at Bow-wow at 5:30 last nite. Hush

Putting a carbed short block in with turbo heads to basically run a car with mpfi. Car was turbo but the short block is shot and I don't have any extra stuff except the carbed block. So my question is which set of cams would be closest to the cams from a true mpfi engine. Carbed? SPFI? or TURBO? I can do any one of these (extra sets of cams around), so whats your opinion? Thanks Hush