hush777

Single port fuel injection has the single port in the head. MPFI and the Turbo (which is also MPFI) are the ones with dual ports. Hush

A friend of mine has some plate glass that they are looking to get rid of. Will have to check on what cost and shipping would be if anyone is interested a piece or 2. Glass is 1/2" thick 15"x25" Hush

Turbo outlet hose hooked up. Turbo water pipes not hooked to the turbo. Top goes to thermostat housing. Bottom goes to passenger head under the turbo. Oil inlet and outlet as they connect to the head. Not sure what aluminum part you mentioned. Hush

There should be a hose that comes off of the passenger head that feeds an inlet tube that is below the banjo connection on the turbo. same style connector as the one that is there but heads down and towards the top of the picture under the turbo to a short hose that connects to a hard line that goes on to the head. That is the inlet turbo cooling line. The one that is u shaped in your picture goes straight out with about a 5 inch hose to the other connection that you have marked in your second picture. That one leads back into the cooling system right before the thermostat housing. They must have had an extra coolant tank of something plumbed in there. If you can't get it figured out let me know and I will run out to the wifes car and shoot a picture for you. One problem with the way that it is hooked up originally is that the passengers head runs hotter that the drivers head because of a design flaw in the engine that slows cooling to the passengers head. On my turbo (have the engine out and can take pictures of what I am talking about if you want) I changed it around to run the coolant inlet line from the drivers head.

Disconnect the wiring at each injector. If the engine runs the same it is probably that one. then recconect and try a different one. Hush

I eventually had to take the tube out of the back of the intake boot to get it the rest of the way home (35 miles). Did a bunch of test and swaping of parts (wife has a turbo wagon also) and ended up putting a jumper wire from the body to the black wire at the connector for the MAF. Problem solved. Then I noticed that the main ground wire to the block from the body (hooks up at the water inlet going into the water pump) had broke. replaced that with a new end and back to normal. Temporaraly disconnected the wire to the Maf and it still ran good so it had to have been the main ground was the problem. Hush

Check your ground wires on the motor. Mine broke and it started running so rich I went through 1/4 tank in 20 miles. Hush

87 gl-10 turbo auto trans. Anyone use the spedo cable off of a 4x standard trans on a 4x auto trans? My wifes cable is making noise, having trouble locating a new one. Have plenty of cables off of standard trans. Thanks Hush

Clicking and the speedo jumps around a little (at 45 it jumps from 41 to 48 or so, been just going with the number that shows up most often.). Everything else works fine. Hush

This is the wifes 87 gl-10 green dash not amber. Has been clicking in the dash for a few years, just wanted to know what I should check in there. Auto trans with cruise also. Hush

Finished doing the reseal, added a new clutch kit, got it all back in and seems a bit sluggish...... oh and the turbo is whining at me...... Got a turbo for someone on here and it seems to want to whine also....:-\ Also put in lifters I got from Mitzpa (4 I had) and 4 just rebuilt... still getting lifter noise. New oil pump and seals, o-ring and MM gasket. I always hate hearing the turbo whine, makes me nervous. Hush

I used to have a dodge colt key that would open most of the doors on the gen 2 stuff that was around in my area. So try any key that will fit in the lock, it just depends on how worn out it is. Hush

Pics I have found on this show the Vss1 at the back of the trans on the rear cover section on the drivers side lower than the drive shaft. Hush

+1 also

Doing some resealing on my engine. Was running a bit low on oil pressure and needed some other seals, so I pulled the engine out (ea82T) and took it down to block and heads still together. The gear on the oil pump had split and the metal band on the back had fallen off and wore a hole through the pump :eek:. Got another one coming on Thursday so no biggey. Also wanted to stop my power steering from leaking all over the place and took it out, took the reservoir off to change the o-ring out. Noticed that there seemed to be lots of signs of leaking from the front bearing seal area, sourced a bearing for it locally and took the shaft out to get the bearing off. Notice a seal behind the bearing---- and it was missing parts of the inner lip...... Part number on it is NOK ae 0816f.... yeah right.... try to find one of those. Crosses over to a honda part number (91215PHR003) for 2004 insight manual transmission shifter seal.... No one locally has one of those or any other seal that is the right size (18x30x7) was looking on several pages and thought that the oil pump seal looked real close to the right size and since I had one already to the pump reseal I pulled it out and checked it. It is 18x30x9 hmmmmmm....... the back looks like it might compress a little so give it a shot. Will have to let you all know if it all works like it is supposed to (i.e. no weird sounds or leaks) but this seems like a really good solution for the power steering pump leaks. Hush

working on a 93 loyale 4x4 and the last guy who did the cluth lost the clips for the t/o bearing. Will the ones I have off of an 86 2 wheel drive work? Or should I stop buy a junkyard and grab some on my way there.? Hush Thanks guys

Yeah that looks like it. Hush

I always wanted to change mine from the maple beige that it is, to the champagne gold that they had for the ea82 bodies. Have a silver one also that is for the wife. I have owned most of the ea82 colors except for the gold. Hush

Success or so I am gonna call it. Swapped out 2 injectors but one was bad, Guess which cyl the bad one went on...... #3 :banghead: ...... but changed it back to the know good one from #1 cyl and all is well .... Had to change out the connectors also as the injectors didn't like the ones on the engine, but like the ones that they had originally just fine. Thanks all for the help and suggestions. Hush

After some hunting (read: digging through 3' of snow in several places) I found my extra complete turbo manifold, with all the injectors. :) So gonna swap a couple out and see what happens. Hush

Yeah that is what I thought. Timing belt on that side is dead on, and compression is at 130+ on both cyl's. So now I need to pull the injector and look at it. Glad it is on the pass side, cause I can't even see the injectors on the drivers side. Hush

7-9-2007 that would be about 40k miles ago Will check that. Pulled the plugs on the pass side and the #1 looks normal. The #3 looks like it is running rich. Will look at the T-belts and do a compression check Hush

Sprayed brake cleaner on all the hoses and intake and throttle body connections, no change at all. Pulled the plug wires on all the plugs, while running. #1, #2 and #4 all caused major rpm drop. #3 only caused a small rpm drop. Held the wire near the intake and got plenty of good spark off of it. I also notice that I seem to be getting more rocker noise than I normally do. Oil pressure is right on the money for where It has always been. Have to run one of the boys home, will pull the #2 plug when i get back. Hush

No it doesn't run better cold. I did change out the CTS and cleaned all the wiring for it about 2 months ago. And #4 cyl is the back one on the drivers side. Hush

My Turbo wagon started running rough on the way home from work the other night. Lacking power and surging a bit. When I got to the house I asked my son to listen for any spark jumping off the plugs/wires and he said that the #4 was leaking just a hair to one of the brackets near it. Also the Turbo was glowing a bit. I had not been pushing it enough for the turbo to be running. My thoughts are that it is running a bit lean on a least one cyl. Probably the #4. I took my other turbo wagon to town yesterday and did pick up some brake cleaner to test for vacuum leaks. Am thinking that I might have an injector buggering up on me. I do have a stethoscope and will try to listen to all the injectors today after testing for leaks. Car has 240k on it and around 85k since I did the head gaskets to get it up and running when I got it. Standard trans and 4x4 also. No check engine light showing and I do know the bulb is good as it does come on when I turn the key on. Any thing else you guys think I might be missing? Hush